quick questions
 

Hi All,


Two quick questions:


1) on the front shocks do I have to elongate the holes or use a dremel and open them up completely and then use a large washer for support?


2) I think it was here where I was trying to figure out what bushings I had on my PS frame bracket and people said that they had been replaced. I have a back up PS system and I need to know if the bushing set up on the idler arm is correct. My center link came with a large bushing and I need to know if I have to remove it. I am leaning towards yes, but before I destroy something I just want to confirm it.


3) also, I am assuming the short bushing gets pressed into the bracket and the long bushing goes into the Center link-correct?




Thanks,


Mike

Re: quick questions
 

Q1: If the shocks you have don't fit in the top holes thru the frame, take those shocks back and get the right ones.

Q2: If you ordered a set of idler arm bushings for a PS idler arm, there should be a long bushing and a short one. The long bushing goes on the longest stud of the idler arm. It will be necessary to press out the old bushings from the idler arm bracket and the end of the center link and press the new bushings in.

Q3: The long stud of the idler arm goes into the idler arm bracket, so the long bushing must be pressed into the idler arm bracket. The short bushing goes into the end of the center link.

Re: quick questions
 

Still not sure about your Q1. The shocks are removed and installed from below. Remove two bolts from the mounting bracket holding the bottom stud of the shock and pull the bracket and shock absorber out of the spring.
There should be no need to hack at anything. The holes in the upper frame and lower shock mounting bracket for the shock studs are already the right size.

Re: quick questions
 

Dave, I agree but the shocks I got from KYB model 4515 are to narrow for the bolt holes. I can get one bolt in but not the other. Thanks for clarifying the other questions.

Mike

Re: quick questions
 

Are you describing the lower shock mount (18A007) as shown in the attached ILL? If so, it is the wrong shock.

Re: quick questions
 

Hi K,

Yes that is part that is too narrow. That is the shock number I got from the 57 Ford forum and from KYB/Rock Auto. Is there is different shock number I should look for?

Mike

Re: quick questions
 

I too researched that PN and it indicated that was the correct PN. KYB is a quality act but I would like to know why they are not assembled correctly. Maybe they have a HOT LINE? I would like to hear what they say.

Are your lower control arms actual 1957? I remember your having some trouble with them.

Do you still have the take-offs? If push comes to shove, it is possible to use the original mounting brackets on the new shock. They were serviced on the original shock separately also.

Re: quick questions
 

OK, here is the skinny as this was driving me nuts.

The 1957 SHOCK ABS was replaced by the 1960 shock, the 1960 shock having a different length lower mounting bracket. This was also included by FORD replacing 1957 LWR CTL arms with 1960, then 1961 and finally 1962 model year LWR CTL ARMS for service.

So therein is the problem. Modern shock manufacturers are building to ORIGINAL SERVICE PART REPLACEMENT SPECS.

IF the KYB shock lower mounting eye is the same DIA as the previous FORD design, one should be able to just simply change the mounting bracket into the new shock.

1957/59 original mounting bracket (B7A 18201-A) can be found NOS.

NOTE -

There must be a TSB of the period describing this.

Re: quick questions
 

Thanks K,

Yep both lower arms are 57 as they look identical but will verify the spacing as the right is original to the car. As to the lower shock base, I chucked the originals foolishly thinking that replacement shocks would be available and made correctly. If I can find the base I will see about getting them swapped out. Thanks again, in the meantime do you know of any shock makers who do make the correct sized shock?

Mike

Re: quick questions
 

Try these guys, I've had good luck with them in the past.

https://www.shocks2springs.com/ford-...1938-1979.html

Re: quick questions
 

Never discard old parts until all of the smoke clears. You now know the mounting differences. If you send the KYB's back, make sure the new supplier has a separate listing for 1957-59 and 1960.

I would call KYB and see if they offer the lower mount for a 57/59.

Re: quick questions
 

K, I found a NOS base set up for the shocks. So I will see if I can get the local shop to press them in. I will also try Dobie's suggestion as well.


Mike

Re: quick questions
 

Here are two more questions:

1) I need to get a balancer pulley to get the front pulley off, got it-does the back/inner pulley come off the same way? I.E. with the two threaded bolts?

2) what is the best way to get my dead auto granny out? I don’t think removing the cross member is in the cards without soaking the member is kroil for about a month or three. I have an idea brewing that uses my hoist but I wanted to see what you all say first.

Mike

Re: quick questions
 

Yes, the damper holes are used (PASS CAR) with a puller to remove the damper. An install tool is nice to press it back on. The method(s) are shown in the SHOP MANUAL.

The easiest way was to remove it with the engine pull. I can think of no safe way to remove it now without it's coming out of the underneath of the car.

Re: quick questions
 

Here is a post from another forum describing how the poster removed his with the engine already out -

SOURCE - https://1954ford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=4850

I can't quite grab exactly what he is describing but it may help.