Help!!!!
 

I've got a 1930 Model A Coupe I had shipped up from Colorado 6 months ago to my home here in Fairbanks Alaska. It was a barn find and was in pretty rough shape.
Tried getting it running with very limited success...
It would start, run very rough and then die after warming up. Needless to say, it wouldn't start again...
Since then, I have changed the carburetor, installed new distributor with modern guts, new ammeter, new ignition switch, new charge controller, new wiring harness, new coil. And today (Saturday) I got it all put back together. It started, ran rough, died after warming up and would not restart. I cleaned the grounding strap and the cross member and still no restart. The ammeter shows zero discharge when cranking the engine. I've timed it a few times and still nothing.
I've tried following Les Andrew's Trouble Shooting book and no luck.
What am I missing or doing wrong???
Mark in Fairbanks Alaska

Re: Help!!!!
 

Is the fuel cap vented properly? Is the carby clean? It seems you have replaced just about all of the ignition system, not that that means all is well. When it is refusing to start, do you get a spark by opening the points with ignition turned on?

Re: Help!!!!
 

Is there good gas flow to carb?

When did it run last?
Could the muffler have a mouse nest in it causing back pressure?

Re: Help!!!!
 

agreed. get your fuel going. if not that, would start looking at the valves.

Re: Help!!!!
 

Did you totally clean gas tank and put fresh gasoline in ?

Re: Help!!!!
 

Agree with fuel issue. When it ran it may have used up all the gas in the carb? Remove gas cap, eliminating cap vent issue. Disconnect fuel line at the carb, put end of fuel line in a container (soda can), open peacock under the gas tank in the cab. Fuel should flow into can.
Just an elimination proceedure. Chap

Re: Help!!!!
 

Agree with fuel issue. When it ran it may have used up all the gas in the carb? Remove gas cap, eliminating cap vent issue. Disconnect fuel line at the carb, put end of fuel line in a container (soda can), open peacock under the gas tank in the cab. Fuel should flow into can.
Just an elimination proceedure. Chap

Re: Help!!!!
 

Drop the oil pan and pop out the dipper tray and clean everything ,the oil pump screen could well be blocked with sludge . Clean out the valve chest there are 3 holes one in the middle and one each end they feed oil to the main bearings . Dont wreck your engine by being hasty ,just my thoughts .

John in windy Suffolk County England .

Re: Help!!!!
 

Drop the oil pan and pop out the dipper tray and clean everything ,the oil pump screen could well be blocked with sludge . Clean out the valve chest there are 3 holes one in the middle and one each end they feed oil to the main bearings . Dont wreck your engine by being hasty ,just my thoughts .

John in windy Suffolk County England .

Re: Help!!!!
 

There's a Great Model A Fellow in Fairbanks, Daryll his name very familiar with Model A's, He's usually on the other Model A Site- Chat section ,www.ahooga.com, if close by I'm sure he would be glad to help.

Re: Help!!!!
 

Check for Vacuum leaks, or stuck valve. Do one thing at a time.

Re: Help!!!!
 

Might try some Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas and a direct shot into the carb to lube the valves.

Re: Help!!!!
 

The problem is probably the condenser . Even if the condenser is new .

Re: Help!!!!
 

A bad condenser will sometimes run ok until it gets warm and then quit .

Re: Help!!!!
 

We have a 28 PU that sat for 20 years with ethanol in the tank. We cleaned and cleaned and cleaned that tank, took two weeks. Replaced all the lines (some were copper), the sediment bowl and ordered a carb from Jim in Texas (great carb and a great guy). We're still having fuel issues because of the rust in the tank.

My guess is that's your problem.

I would check the entire electrical system, switch, coil, condenser and points just to make sure. Once (or if) you're satisfied it's working right move to the fuel system. (Might also check the polarity on the coil, positive ground confuses people on the coil polarity and you'll get spark if it's wrong, but it'll be weak).

When you get ready to check the fuel system take out any inline filters you may have in place. Remove the line at the carb, have someone open the petcock and check the flow into a clear bottle. You should have a good flow, if it's a trickle you have a blockage upstream (ours is usually in the pencil screen stuck in the petcock). Blow into the fuel line and it'll probably knock out whatever is causing it loose.

Check out the fuel you drained out, watch for rust and debris in the bottom. We had gel like stuff in that 28 fuel system. If you have debris in it you'll likely need to clean the tank. With all the EPA regulations it may be tough to find someone that can do the work. Our local guy quoted $350 for the cleaning and $850 for the hazardous waste disposal. $1,200 total. We passed, but if we keep having problems that may be our only option.

The guys here will help you through the process. Good luck!

Re: Help!!!!
 

I will look into the fuel system today. Thank you all for your input! Mark in Fairbanks Alaska

Re: Help!!!!
 

If the tank needs work, a boat tank or other fuel supply can be used to see if fuel delivery is the problem. I'd do a compression check to see if there is a valve hung open or not. Reviving an engine that has set up for extended periods can be a real challenge sometimes but at least it's a simple design. You can leave the generator out of the circuit for testing and use a battery charger. I wonder if the amp meter is an original or a reproduction. The reproductions are crap and have no sensitivity. An original is very sensitive to any movement when shaking it with your hand. With repros, the needle will rarely move much.

Re: Help!!!!
 

Yep that's what I was thinking, starts and runs until it gets warm. Some have posted that they have installed 4 new condensers until they find one that's good, wondering, probly not the A&L burn prove condensers.

Re: Help!!!!
 

Yep,
Compression check
ignition/spark check
fuel supply check

Re: Help!!!!
 

'A&L burn prove condensers.'


Don't trust em