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REAR END Question Hello everyone , maybe someone can give me some advice-
I have just replaced the diff carrier bearings (both bearings and cups). I have also replaced the carrier spider gears to eiminate the excessive axle end play. I have not replaced the crown gear/ring gear and the pinion adjustment was not touched. I made a note of the gaskets that were between the axle housing and banjo on each side when they were taken apart. My Question is - Do I need to reset any preloads or can I just bolt everything back together and all should be o.k. ? Tom Endy maybe able to chime in here . Thanks Mark. |
Re: REAR END Question Does anyone have a suggestion or opinion ?
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Re: REAR END Question Yes, I think you should check the preload. Since you mentioned Tom Endy,
did you look at his site? . .................................. 10. www.ocmafc.org Orange County Model A Ford Club (Tom Endy's Technical Articles) (California)........................... |
Re: REAR END Question Hi Yes I have seen Tom Endy's article.
I just thought that maybe because I had not altered the pinion or crownwheel settings I would not have to check the preload settings. All I have done is put new carrier bearings in. Thanks for your reply |
Re: REAR END Question new carrier bearings can change preload possibly needing different thickness gaskets than what was removed
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Re: REAR END Question New bearings new pre load. Gaskets come in different thickness's so just counting the old ones is problematic. Plus the old gaskets have taken a set/crush and there would be no way to pre crush the new ones to get the same thickness for checking.
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Re: REAR END Question |
Re: REAR END Question Yes tahnks for the advice I will definatley check the preload.
Time spent now will prevent grief later. Thanks for your responses |
Re: REAR END Question d.j.
Nice picture but you don't give any information. Who, what and how much. Who sell that set? What are the thickness of the gaskets? What is the price of the set? |
Re: REAR END Question The BEST COMP Gasket set is the best quality available. Most jobbers sell them just ask
It comes with everything you need |
Re: REAR END Question Even if you changed nothing, as long as you are doing a tear-down, it would not be prudent to ASSUME the preload and other settings were correct. Another way to look at it: How many times do you want to R&R the rear end?
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Re: REAR END Question The company's name is "Best Gaskets",...I purchase them from my
local machine shop. I used there gasket set when I did an 8BA engine for a customer. There not cheap.... . .............white-.003, ivory-.005, green-.007, blue-.009................ |
Re: REAR END Question 1 Attachment(s)
Some rear differential carriers are worn to the point where the carrier needs to be shimmed to get the correct pre-load set. Bratton's carries the shims for this. Before I learned of this, I was doing a rebuild and ended up with a huge amount of gaskets on the axle housings. Another good reason you should measure the pre-load and adjust if necessary.
http://www.bestgasket.com/drive_trai...0U-Joint%20Set |
Re: REAR END Question I would not rely on the gaskets you found in place as being correct for proper pre-load. Who ever had it apart before may not have set the pre-load correctly. A few years ago suppliers were selling rebuild gasket kits supplied with two .010 banjo gaskets. Most people put one on each side and bolted it up without any thought to pre-load. This was the cause of many carrier bearings being spun on their hubs.
You did not mention if you replaced the two pinion bearings and the double race, To do the job properly you should replace all four tapered roller bearings, the two single races, the double race, and all three axle\drive shaft seals. There are three settings that should be considered, and in the following sequence. 1. the carrier bearing pre-load, done by selecting the quantity and thickness of banjo gaskets. 2. The pinion bearing pre-load, done by properly adjusting the two large nuts on the pinion gear sleeve. The nominal setting for both settings is 20 in lbs. 3. The backlash between the ring and pinion gears, done by shifting the previously selected banjo gaskets right and left. Usually when rebuilding the differential it is quite common to find the carrier bearings spun on the mounting hubs. My experience is about 3 out of 4 are spun. This requires either replacement of the carrier, or knurling of the existing. Often there is not enough material left to knurl. I keep a supply of knurled carriers in stock and exchange them when found spun. It is usually necessary to put shims under the new bearings on a knurled carrier to compensate for material spun from the bearing stop. Bratton' stocks them in .005 thickness. I have had to stack as many as three on a given carrier to achieve proper pre-load. All the information you need to rebuild the rear axle assembly is in the dissertation several people above have commented on. It is on the Orange County Model A Club web site. You are welcome to down load it, print it out, and use it. Tom Endy |
Re: REAR END Question Quote:
Tom Endy |
Re: REAR END Question setting the rear end properly can be tedious, but well worth the time given what you have to go thru to get at everything. Print out Tom's splendid article and follow the instructions to a T and it will be time well spent. I know he prefers the dial type inch-pound wrench but they are hard to find and pricey. I have had good luck with the beam-type torque wrench and double check my work a couple times; spin it round and round. Even these can be tough to find, but bicycle shops use inch pound wrenches all day long and sometimes sell them, or go online to get one, they are inexpensive (20-25 bucks). You usually have to use several adapters to get the wrench on pinion since the inch pound wrenches are 1/4 inch drive.
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Re: REAR END Question Thanks to Tom and others for your advice
Yes I have deceided to go the whole hog and do it right the first time rather than risk damaging the diff and associated parts that I have replaced . And then having to do the entire job over again. It maybe tedious but worth the time put in. Thanks Mark. |
Re: REAR END Question Absolutely, as long as its apart, do it once and correctly so you won't have that "what if" constantly in the back of your mind.
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