Frame welting application I'm at the point of installing welting on my 1931 frame and would like to know in inches how far back does the welting go towards the back of the frame. An inch measurement taken from the very end of the back of the frame to where the welting would end.
ALSO Does anyone have any comments about installing the frame welting using contact cement. I understand there is welting available with an adhesive backing, but I am using welting without that adhesive. It just seems better to put the body back on the frame if the welting was held in place with being tacked down during that process. Thanks to all who take the time to answer my questions. |
Re: Frame welting application The welting starts about 2" past the rear of the splash apron and continues forward just wrapping over the front horns, but not below them. I have used contact cement, no problem. I have fit them first, marking and punching the holes in them, and then put the contact cement on and then put them on. You put webbing on the front body bolt pad with the two holes and also on the rear hood clamp pad.
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Re: Frame welting application There were a lot of assembly plants during the era. While most followed directives or instructions from experienced workers or section supervisors, there always seems to be exceptions. As long as it functions as an anti-squeak then it's good to go. I wouldn't lose much sleep over it one way or the other.
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Re: Frame welting application Thanks to everyone who took the time to answer my questions. All the information was very informative to me.
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With regard to a comment in one of the previous linked posts, there was comment made that I should post a picture that I found at the archives that counters what others believe. This is an area where I am probably a little more lax now in publicly posting images and clips that I have paid for, however there was a time when I was worried about publicly posting images and information that I received from the Benson Library for fear I would not be allowed to research there for breaking their rules. Anymore, I just tend to say "whatever" to those that push their opinion if it counters mine. A great example is a question Hunter Fanning asked here about 10 years ago about frame welting. Marco gave his opinion as to what was correct. He is a great historian and a very knowledgeable restorer for which I have great respect for. I have included something that shows where my research counters what his was. That is why it is suggested in the Standards to restore your car based on your own research. . |
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Re: Frame welting application I used 3-M "Gorilla Snot" to cement the webbing to the frame.
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Re: Frame welting application how do you guys actually punch the holes through the webbing?
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Re: Frame welting application Thank you Brent.
A friend drove over to my home with his project Model A Ford which the body had not been removed from the frame. After looking at the frame underneath the car, I could see the webbing positioning under the body apron. The webbing was observed not being installed past the body apron on the frame. The positioning for the Anti-squeak material was the same as pictured in the photo you sent. It appeared the webbing applied to the frame did not go past the body apron. Thanks very much for your input, and additionally thank everyone else who responded to this post. |
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John |
Re: Frame welting application I use a Weller electric soldering iron. Can control the heat easily.
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Re: Frame welting application I stick the webbing down with 3M spray adhesive then I heat a marlin spike with a propane torch and push it through the webbing in all the hole locations . I goes through like a knife through butter and leaves a neat sealed round hole . The spike has a sharp point so does the hood latch holes easily . I do this just prior to putting the body on . This system works great with fender welting as well .
John visiting with eldest daughter in Bath ,just been on a long walk in Lansdown Woods breezy sunny day .Somerset County England . |
Re: Frame welting application Frame welting or anti-squeek can be applied to the frame/fenders in a few different ways for sure.
For those of you looking for the correct way, at least how the specific material was cut and curried, here is something I researched out a few years ago through the data at the Ford Archives, http://www.plucks329s.org/pdf/studie...EAKARTICLE.pdf The Asphaltum Treatment of Ford’s Anti-Squeak material that I mentioned in the article could have been "thinned down"...it was just a little bit to thick in my opinion. Pluck |
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Lynn |
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