Motor Mounts what to do
 

I am new to the Model A and would like some advice before changing something.

I noticed that the motor mount on the dirvers side is cracked where one of the bolts fastens to the flywheel housing. It starts at the bolt and extends to the upper corners. It's cracked on both bolts. I don't know if the passenger side is cracked at least I can't see any, however I wouldn't be surprised if cracks have started from my experience with cars.

I could remove and tig them but don't know the pressure and stress involved in the engineering of the frame/motor. Or I found new mounts called Float a Motor that says it reduces vibration and seems more of an up to date motor mount. The other option is to find some old ones in good shape but I was wondering if the same thing would happen all over again.

My questions are has anyone had this happen and what did you do?
Also is the Float A Motor a good addition. Does it reduce vibration?
Is the Float A Motor safe to use.

This is not a points car. The care is mostly original except for some small parts, handles etc, so I am not that concerned with showing it.
Any input would be much appreciated before I tear into it and do something that might not work well or make a bigger problem.

Thanks
Joe

Re: Motor Mounts what to do
 

Oem is the best option in my opinion. My rule of thumb is if the part does not fit something is out of alignment. Basically, research the replacement(Les Andrews manuals are a great start). Ask questions, and lookup an old guy like me to walk you thru it. Use original when ever possible, and throw nothing away.
I replaced the float a motors on the huckster, The current thread on the thickness of the rubber pad kept in mind, buy what you need from brattons, or snyders. You can weld repair the original mount. You will probably never have to do that again. 85 years ago the roads were rough, now, not so much.
Bob

Re: Motor Mounts what to do
 

Joe, I concur with Bob that the original mounts are the best for holding the engine as it should be... and do just fine with new quality rubber installed properly. There was just another thread on rear mounts From BudP

The original mounts can probably be fixed by drilling out the end of the crack and tig or mig welding. and dressed down properly. Of course to remove with the engine in the car the engine and trans will have to be supported properly. I would probably recommend only doing one side at a time ( I think I usually have done passenger first)... if you have a frame spreader it may help. Sometimes a small jack or porta power at the proper location my assist as well. It's not an easy job... just know that going in. If you have someone who's done it before to help or take it to I would recommend that. Just depends on your comfort level.

The float A mounts are easier to install but cost more and have their own set of issues. Replace all rubber and outer nut/bolt/sleeves .
Best of luck!
Larry Shepard

Re: Motor Mounts what to do
 

Original motor mounts contribute to lateral stability and grounding of the electrical system. Keep it original.

Re: Motor Mounts what to do
 

The only good thing that I can say about floating motor mounts is that they make engine removal and replacement easier. The rest is all bad. I would only use the original motor mounts.

Re: Motor Mounts what to do
 

We reviewed some of the problems with the float a motor mounts a few years back. One of the key problems was people tightening the two pieces together with that center bolt so tight they change the engine position enough to effect the front axle geometry. If you do use them you must keep the engine on the 3 degree slope to the rear. People were pulling the engine up with the float a motor bolt which in turns pulls the A frame out of alignment. Hope you follow this but if done right they will work just found too many people didn't install them correctly.

Re: Motor Mounts what to do
 

Also, if the mounts are tightened too much, it will cause even worse vibration. With float A motor mounts, you lose the important solid crossmember at the clutch housing that the original mounts create. This weakens the frame at the rear mounts and frame sag will usually follow. Because the model A doesn't have the anti chatter torque rods like the V8s had, the whole running gear will actually float to some degree. In other words when the pedals are depressed there will be some backward and forward float with the running gear. Chatter will soon be noticed when taking off. Of course a person can get by with float A motor mounts, many people use them. It wasn't long after i installed a set in the coupe that I realized that I had played hell.