distributor wire
 

I have a mallory dist. in the car now and it runs great. I bought a new distributor with the modern plates , upper and wireless lower. The mallory has one wire from the coil to the external condenser. the new distributor has a hole that is threaded and I think takes a plunger type end. Can I buy a wire to go from the coil to the distributor with this type of end to screw in. I don't have a pop out switch. If so what do I buy? the vender catalogs are a little confusing to me. the car is 12v

Re: distributor wire
 

If you already have the switch this will work;
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...gnition-switch
Don't screw the threaded end in too far, it will short out. Screw it in just far enough to make contact.
You will also need the grommet that the cable goes thru in the junction box.

Re: distributor wire
 

https://modelastore.com/electrical/d...roduct_id=4141


This is the wire I prefer. [Since you don't use a pop-out, the distributor can be wired as a more modern car, but, thats your choice] [ key switch before the coil and this wire can then be attached to the coil primary terminal that matches the battery ground.]

Also if using a 'modern' upper plate, I recommend adding a fine strand wire. The wireless plates are troublesome. Other than that they work fine.

Re: distributor wire
 

To keep this simple, why can't i hook a wire from the coil to the distributor that has the screw in pop out fitting?

Re: distributor wire
 

OH, I didn't realize you wanted to use a pop-out switch. I thought you wanted to keep using the aftermarket type key switch.

The distributor wire I posted can be attached to coil and screwed into the distributor with a couple wires in the terminal box and key switch being changed to use the key switch to turn the coil on and off rather than have a hot coil.

Re: distributor wire
 

If your ignition is wired to switch battery to the coil then you can connect points directly to the other coil terminal. But you need a means to switch the circuit off or it will drain the battery.

Re: distributor wire
 

I don't want a pop out switch. I just don't know what to call the end of the wire that has the spring loaded contact that screws into the distributor. the mallory thats currently in the car has one wire from a post on the coil to the mallory. can I do the same for this distributor with the spring loaded contact screwed into the distributor? how do I know if my switch is the pop out type? The car does not drain the battery now with the switch thats in it wired this way.

Re: distributor wire
 

with the "pop out" switch when you put the key in and turn it the key cylinder part pops out, then the key can be removed, to stop engine just push it in

I have always scrounged old ends of original pop outs, but the parts dealers sell them new too

Re: distributor wire
 

On a stock Model A the coil has power to it all the time, the ground path is from the points through the switch and to the coil.

Re: distributor wire
 

AH, OK. With the Mallory distributor its probably wired more like a 'modern' car. If you remove the dash panel [ 4 screws] take a look at the switch and I'm thinking you'll see 2 wire terminals on it. I'm also thinking that if you're now using 12 volts that the battery ground is now negative [ rather than positive as/like standard].

With the primary cable I listed from Berts its almost a plug n play. To install the key switch before the coil just take a power wire from the terminal box to the key switch. From the other key terminal go the positive coil post. Then from the negative coil post connect the new primary cable end and screw the fat end into the distributor. Don't screw it in tight. [ this is if the battery is hooked up with negative ground, if it positive ground just reverse the coil wires. Points should be hooked up the same as the battery ground]. Check for 6-8 volts at the points when arm is open. No volts when points arm is closed. If your getting 12 volts to the points then an external resistor is needed or a 3 ohm coil.

Re: distributor wire
 

I would assume the key switch is wired correctly because the engine runs great with the Mallory. So if I connect the new primary cable to the neg post on the coil and screw the fat end into the distributor it should be right, if I read your post correctly. that is the way it's currently wired with the Mallory. I'm sorry I'm so slow on the up take but electric stuff is all Chinese to me. I sure appreciate the time you have spent explaining this.

Re: distributor wire
 

Its just a matter of how the wires are located. Originally Ford put the key switch between the coil and points so the coil is 'hot' all the time. Most though have the key before the coil so the coil is 'cold' with the key off. I'm thinking yours is the 'newer' way. A test light or volt meter would easily check this. If the primary lead was from the negative coil terminal to the distributor points/condensor then just install the new primary lead from Bert's the same way. The fat end screws into the distributor hole and the power will end going to the same place [ points]. I would still recommend measuring the voltage to the points, but, if you weren't burning up points before you should be fine.

Re: distributor wire
 

I will attempt to make all of the checks you recommend and see what happens. thank you

Re: distributor wire
 

I ran the checks and found that I do have 12v at the points. I have not had any problems with the points so do you think I still need to by a coil with a resistor built in? If I need to how do I know what coil to buy, thank you

Re: distributor wire
 

Two choices -


6v coil with internal resistance of 1.5 ohms with an additional series 1.5 ohm ballast resister.


Or a 12v coil with an internal resistance of 3 ohms.


Available from most Model A vendors.

Re: distributor wire
 

Yep, you'll need a 3 ohm epoxy filled coil [ not oil filled]. Or you can just add a ballast resistor. Pertronix website has the info.

Re: distributor wire
 

Okay, Thanks for all the info, that really helps.

Re: distributor wire
 

Although the coil on a stock model A has a power wire connected to it, it will only have current flow if the points are closed and the Electrolock switch is in the on position. In other words only if the circuit is closed. If a person leaves the key on and the points are closed, it can burn the coil up if it doesn't drain the battery first. Many a coil has died this way.

Coils don't care as much about voltage as they do amperage. Most old style can coils don't draw a lot of current but if the system voltage increases to 12-volts then it can draw more than it needs so a ballast is needed for those with the 1.5 Ohm primary winding. The 3 Ohm winding will control the current for a 12 to 14 volt system without a ballast.