Originally Posted by JSeery (Post 1932746)

Unless you have something different connected up the ignition switch should have nothing to do with the solenoid you installed. The ignition switch input should be hot all the time and connected to the same solenoid terminal as the battery (thus hot all the time, just like the original).

Might have to do a little more think here (that's on my part) but I don't see why it won't work the way you are wanting to wire it up.

Originally Posted by Phil Gillespie (Post 1932749)

I hoping for this. At present as reported original starter button is not doing the business right? Dont want to do any 2 wire conversions if possible.
Phil NZ

Originally Posted by JSeery (Post 1932752)

Ya, but that is just a wiring issue between the button and the solenoid if shorting the terminal on it activates it. The starter button is just a remote ground path.

This looks like it should work to me.

Originally Posted by 38bill (Post 1932759)

Not familiar with your solenoid but when I changed to 12V neg earth (ground) I had to add a 12V relay to get my stock starter button to work.

The starter button grounds the relay and the relay sends 12V to the starter solenoid.

Originally Posted by JSeery (Post 1932769)

If your starter engages when you short out the starter button terminal on the solenoid, then it should be the same thing when wired to the button on the dash. All the button is, is a connection to ground. It is the chrome button with a single connection on it correct? They can be an issue with not making a good ground connection to the hole it is installed in. I think Kube always adds an additional ground wire from the housing.

Originally Posted by Phil Gillespie (Post 1932742)

I requested info from Vintage Garage who I had got bits off for the 12v converstion.

Hello Simple
Your starter needs 12 volts to your denso starter may need to replace your single wire button to 2 wire so when you push the button delivers 12 volts currently your button goes to ground will not work with your new starter.

Jay.

Just wanted to keep all starter sequence as per original as much as possible.
Phil NZ

Originally Posted by RKS.PA (Post 1932799)

Wow, Phil!! This has been quite a ride!! J. Seery to the rescue with his super electrical knowledge! Just goes to show what a great resource this Ford Barn network is.


Very happy you've got this solved and can now get out an put on some "road miles".

Originally Posted by flatjack9 (Post 1932778)

How can a 4 post solenoid be considered original?

Originally Posted by Phil Gillespie (Post 1932738)

An update from suggestions and advice,

Pushing the original start button incar there is no click of soleniod comming in.

I then shorted on the solenoid the button terminal to ground: Solenoid clicked in.

With ignition switch off: power to starter connection on solenoid out to starter.
With ignition switch on: Power to starter connection on soleniod outt starter.
Power to starter connection button terminal.

Ignition switch on Voltage at terminals on solenoid:
1: Battery positive yes
2:Jumper connecton terminal as per drawing, yes
3;Starter switch Yes ???
4:Starter motor No.

The solenoid has at the battery input terminal a 2 wire connection from ?
The solenoid has at the starter switch terminal a single wire connection From starter button I would think.
Phil NZ

Originally Posted by JSeery (Post 1933088)

Way to go Phil!