Manifold heater question(s)
 

I have a Manifold heater installed and need some experienced help. The "cover" has always been removed but I would like to control the heat flowing off the engine better so though about installing the cover and routing the heated air out below the firewall to reduce the heat build up in the cabin.



Once I installed the cover I noticed the clearance between the condenser and the cover and thought there might be a problem with heat build up in the condenser which prompts my first question: Is heat buildup an issue with condensers and manifold heaters? All the designs I have seen seem to have some level of this clearance issue.



Second question is I do not intend to route the heater duct into the cabin and wanted to attach a hose or deflector to the heater outlet but there is not enough space for a clamp as it looks like the "control valve" or pipe is inserted into the heater body not clamped on. There is no "name" on the heater and I have not found a similar design in my searches.



Some have said cap the end with sheet metal or body washer but I would think this will cause a heat buildup and I would rather allow the heat to flow away instead of standing and saturating the surrounding structures.



I just finished installing a heat and sound barrier which has improved the interior heat level significantly so we are moving in the right direction...



Thoughts/suggestions?

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

New condensers that are sold by the parts houses are much better than what has been available in the past. They stand up to heat much better, so heat related failures are not an issue no more.

Have you started the car up and seen if the condenser gets hot?

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

Why not just get a different manifold if you're not going to use the heater part anyway


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Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

Good to know and I have only driven the car without the cover installed (as it was given to me) so no heat issue with the cover off just not sure if it will heat up with the cover installed.



Might just try and see what happens... S

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

I have thought about doing this but more expense and it works as is so always been told; If it works don't mess with it...

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

If it makes more heat in the cabin than you want or it can't be controlled well during the summer months then it seems to me like it doesn't work well at all.

Condensers don't like heat no matter what they are made from. This was a problem back in the day of wax paper insulated condensers and has been a problem with mica and mylar materials as well. They hold up better with modern materials but excessive heat is still not a good thing. The blow proof types hold up well on cars with no heater but I don't know about those that have a manifold heater like the one posted. If I idle my model A too long in the south Texas heat, there is no telling what the temperature of the distributor gets up to. If the car is moving down the road, it's not too bad.

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

There has never been a control valve installed and it seems as if all the control valve does in any of the applications I have seen is to block flow into the cabin. There is no "diversion" duct on the heater so it flows or does not.

IMO, Heat is always bad for electrics/electronics so trying to limit it if at all possible and Central Texas heat is what I'm dealing with so I understand what you are talking about!!

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

My vote - A couple of spare condensers kept with your A is a lot cheaper/easier than a new exhaust manifold installed, which includes taking the intake manifold off and having them ground as a pair. Replace the condenser you have with a new one, keep the old one as a spare in the A so you have a known good spare. When ordering new ensure that it is the short proof, preferably one from A and L. Check with the vendor that it is A and L. I had a heater exhaust manifold, was talked into replacing it with a stock manifold when I had an exhaust leak, and now wished I had kept the old one. It is just something different that was a period accessory that helped make my A a little more unique than stock. If you go with the stock manifold keep the current one in case you change your mind in the future.


Balance my info with the info above from others in your area where heat is more of a factor than here in Wisconsin. Perhaps try my way, easy/not much cost/work, and if does not work out replace the manifold.

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

Agree the changing of the exhaust manifold is not my first choice as I can foresee leaks and or broken studs as I do not think this part has been off the engine in several decades as in maybe 5.... I have photos from when the car was removed from Grampas garage in 2007 after being locked away for 40 years from my HOTRODDING uncle who wanted to rip the fenders off in 1966... The manifold heater was installed in those pictures!!



I can either leave the cover off (which I will for now) and check into the heat resistant condenser and will be putting together a "road trip kit" which I would think points, coil and condenser would be required must haves... Thanks for the A&L recommendation as many here have pointed in their direction too.

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

The only real downside to most heater manifolds is they block the distributor screw/lock-nut. You have to pull the manifold to remove the distributor.
Keep lubing the oil cup to full every oil change to lube the upper and lower distributor bushings, and lube the distributor shaft cam occasionally. Hopefully that will prevent you from having to pull the distributor.

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

I too use a heater manifold [ different than yours] but without the shroud/duct. Heat is an issue. I made a heat shield to try and keep heat away from the distributor. Just went thru a no start problem, no problems found. Went thru 4 condensers that tested good. The new 'heat-proof, short-proof condensers' are not. Brand new they don't work. The 5th tested good and is working [for now].

That condenser has been now removed and thrown in the spare parts box that resides in the rumble seat. 2 were installed in its place, the 1st didn't work. All these except one were in unopened new plastic bags as delivered. It appears not all condensers are created equal even if they are supposedly short/heat proof. I suggest if they are ever ordered, order at least 2.

Over-all parts quality of about anything is not what it used to be.

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

The heater manifolds I've seen [ few] have a hole for distributer retainer access. 9/16" on the nut, screwdriver thru the hole and out it comes, hopefully if not rusted in. :)

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

I would act like I know what you are talking about but I don't so... I'm pretty sure I have access to the distributor screw/lock-nut based on the line drawings in Les Andrews book I would say this is it in the picture. (so that"s good!!)


I have been filling the oil cup but full seems like very little but it does get done every six months or so (oil change) The distributor shaft cam I need to figure out. Time to search and google!

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

Any thoughts on relocating the condenser? There is another thread discussing the relocation to the firewall. Would electronic ignition solve this issue? My car is a driver and not a points car so judging standards while important for the overall look of my car, for me the mechanical aspects are more reliability and maintainability driven.



I really like leaving it as it is, the way my grandpa and uncle made it but have changed a few things mechanically and safety enhancements.

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

Adding a 'later' pigtail condenser to the coil bracket is a good idea and easy to do. It'll get you going, but, I'd check the capacitance if intending to use for very long. But its away from the heat which is a good thing.

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

I relocated my condenser to firewall. No problems, so far working fine.

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

Open your windows. Those are your control valve.

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

I have been running that heater manifold on my slant window 4 door for two years without any problems. it is made so the heat comes up through the wood part of the floor. if you remove that manifold and want to sell it let me know.

Re: Manifold heater question(s)
 

Your heater is designed to send the heated air down below the floorboard & up through a vent in the wood floorboard relieving you of cutting a hole in the firewall. I have one like it and it flows less hot air than the "thru the firewall" style. With this type of manifold there is so much more cast iron that there is little tendency for the manifold to warp.

Manifold heater question(s)
 

Does this heat shield actually keep the condenser cooler? I haven’t been disappointed with Snyder’s parts in the past, but I would be interested in the experience of someone who has actually used this product.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...earchByKeyword


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