Faulty Brake light switch
 

Yesterday, I go to crank the A. After 6-7 turns, it has not fired yet. I check and I have a blown fuse. I replace the fuse and immediately, it burns out again. Today, I isolate the problem down to the brake light switch. I suspect that I put a reproduction switch on the car in the 90s but could not swear to that. Is my only option for eliminating brake light switch woes to replace with an original. I have read that A&L has a good 30-31 but not the one that mounts on the side of the transmission. What are my options?

Re: Faulty Brake light switch
 

Try doing a search, I believe Tom Endy did a thread on how to ck, disassemble, adj, and lube=as good as new.
Paul in CT

Re: Faulty Brake light switch
 

I just had a similar problem and replaced it with another repro...complete junk! After some research through the old post I found A&L parts who kakes an exact reproduction of the original a little pricey, $40, but completely worth it as it took no adjusting or extra work to eliminate my

Re: Faulty Brake light switch
 

The tranny mounted switch is easy to fix. See my pictures in reply #4

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...itch+wesenberg

Re: Faulty Brake light switch
 

Thanks Guys. I'll pull it apart the first of the week.

Re: Faulty Brake light switch
 

You might need to heat the tabs red hot so they don't break. I've done a couple switches without heat, but you can tell they will never take another bending. I also have a cover or two that will need a few tabs welded back on.

Re: Faulty Brake light switch
 

I was having a problem with my 31 pickup brake light switch. I took the advice from one of the posts with a slight twist. Mine is the cross member type switch. I threaded the shaft of the switch with a 10-24 thread then I put a lock nut with a nylon insert flush with the end of the shaft. Then I slightly enlarged the hole in the cross member where the shaft goes through to ensure good clearance. The nut gives a much bigger mating surface for the plunger.

Problem solved :)