Removing ignition lock housings
 

I was looking thru some old files and found these shots on how to remove an ignition lock from an old Ford column. I think they were posted on the HAMB before the New Barn. So anyway here is todays contribution.

Starting out by using some WD 40 or Kroil to act as a lubricant for the steering column lock dowel pin. MVC-001S.JPG .

Next take a center punch and on center of the pin strike to start an index point for drilling. MVC-002S.JPG.

With a #9 tap drill, drill a relief hole in the lock tumbler dowel pin just deep enough that you get to the body of the lock.MVC-003S.JPG.MVC-005S.JPG.

Using a number 8-32 fine thread tap, thread the ignition lock set dowel until the tap bottoms on the lock tumbler.MVC-006S.JPG.

Insert a #8-32 fine thread machine screw until it bottoms out.MVC-009S.JPG.

Using a claw hammer, crows foot or similar pry tool, apply leverage to slowly pull up and out on the ignition tumbler dowel pin.MVC-010S.JPG.
MVC-011S.JPG.

Using a small screw driver or pick pry down on the lock tumbler to free it from the column lock housing.MVC-012S.JPG.

As the tumbler frees up from the housing grab it with pliers and remove the unit. A new or rebuilt unit can be reinstalled and a new dowel pin ignition lock installed.MVC-013S.JPG

If you have damaged the drive dowel hole you can also drill and tap that for a set screw to hold in your new lock.

That's it..



[IMG]file:///Users/dspadaro/Desktop/removing%20ign%20lock/MVC-001S.JPG[/IMG]

Re: Removing ignition lock housings
 

Thank you very much!! That's something on my "to do" list!

Re: Removing ignition lock housings
 

Thanks from me also, good info.

Re: Removing ignition lock housings
 

i used a cheap small slide hammer to get mine out, also tapped mine hole and used a allen head set screw to hold the new lock in.

Re: Removing ignition lock housings
 

this works well for 36 and later. most of the parts houses sell the retaining pin (approx 1/4" dia)for these lock cylinders. the retaining pin for the 32-35 cylinder is much smaller it is not sold by the parts houses and can be replaced by a #8 or #10 set screw. you will not be able to pull this small pin since it can not be center drilled and tapped for a pulling screw, just drill it out using the proper size drill for the size of set screw you have decided to use. use care to drill the entire pin by drilling straight through the pin and not at an angle.

Re: Removing ignition lock housings
 

Thanks for posting, that's how I got my lock out.




"Using a small screw driver or pick pry down on the lock tumbler to free it from the column lock housing.MVC-012S.JPG."

Just something to bear in mind that I learnt when doing this: I had to tap the pick to free up the tumbler to get it out, but it turned out I had bruised the tumbler body and when I got a key for the lock (the reason for removing it in the first place was to find the key number) it stopped the lock turning fully. I eventually got it free with a lot of oil and gentle persuasion, but just don't tap too hard if you plan on re-using the lock.

Re: Removing ignition lock housings
 

Dick, Thank you very much for posting that detailed info.

Re: Removing ignition lock housings
 

I always wonderes how they came apart. Thanks for posting. Rod

Re: Removing ignition lock housings
 

Thanks Dick, I just printed your info. for my files. Harold central coast Ca.

Re: Removing ignition lock housings
 

Dick, thanks for your well written info regarding Early Ford steering column ignition lock assemblies. The attached pictures helped to clarify what has to be done. My 1932 Ford column/lock assembly seems to have a very small pin to lock in the cylinder but I will proceed carefully and see what happens.
Thanks,
Wheelie Dave

Re: Removing ignition lock housings
 

Wheelie, read Terry's post on '32. Somewhere in the wilderness of my basement I have a NOS '32 pin and a NOS late pin carefully labeled and taped to cardboard. If I ever find the blasted things I'll get out the Micrometer and post. Early one is too small for drilling and threading with a screw strong enough to survive pulling service.