|
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor Tony, spray some "Lock-Ease" into your door locks. The old lube in the locks has probably caused the tumblers to stick. You can get "Lock-Ease" at any hardware store.
|
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor I had the same problem with my door lock. I used PB Blaster. Shot it directly into the key slot and gently worked the key for a couple of days. As with the Ignition/Column lock, it freed up and works like new now. Just take it slow and easy. You don't wanna twist the key or break it in the lock. :(
|
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor 3 Attachment(s)
This spider held up my fuel tank install for two hours on Saturday. He was spotted during a last minute check prior to install. I could see him way back there with my mini mag light. He would not shake loose so I poured a small amount of gasoline (about a shot glass full) in the tank and sealed up the holes. I drank a beer while waiting. Drained out the gas and hoped for the best. I spotted the spider on the wall baffle close to the filler hole. He was dead and stuck to the tank. I tried to vaccume him out but he stayed fixed. I found a long twig and put some electrical tape on the end. I looked in and he had fallen to the floor of the tank. I poked my spider extracting tool into the tank and got him.
This tank is now in brand new condition and installed on my 1937 Ford. |
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor 1 Attachment(s)
Got this old Ford running today at last!!!
Runs strong, sounds good, real good. Got a small fuel leak problem at the carb and the car did quit on both rides it went on but was easily restarted. Have a bunch of new parts and all new wires that will be installed this winter. Need to get some new tires for the upcoming car season. Thanks to my old friend Tom Starcevich and special thanks to my friend and old car mechanic pal Mitch Markese who has taught me a lot. Thanks to you all on FordBarn who helped me, especially Alan and DavidJ. Here is a photo of Mitch doing some work. TM |
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor |
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor Quote:
Thanks, Royal Ryser |
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor 1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
I cut off the fuel filler neck from the threaded sleeve before I removed the fuel tank. I was able to get the threaded sleeve to move but it would not break free of the fuel filler neck. I took precautions and sawed the fuel filler neck beyond the threaded sleeve. Once the fuel filler neck was removed, the threaded sleeve came off very easy. Once the threaded sleeve was removed from the tank it was fairly easy to get the fuel tank to come down and off. TM |
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor 3 Attachment(s)
Installed this very nice robe cord that I purchased from a FordBarner named Vince.
Looks like it was always there. |
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor Makes it all worth it doesn't it !!!! NICE car and congrats .
|
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor Quote:
Thanks DavidJ!!! Thanks for all of your help. Glad to have it running and driving. Going to rewire the entire car, replace windshield glass and install new tires. TonyM |
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor 3 Attachment(s)
Went for three rides today (50 degrees F in the Chicago area on January 19). The third ride turned into a "push." The type 59 carb failed and is leaking badly from the body and base. The carb is bolted to the later type intake manifold by a stud that is welded into place (the corner where the stud goes in apparently broke off). The "repair" is very poor.
Lucky for me I have a reconditioned 1937 aluminum intake with all studs and gaskets, a new fuel pump and a usable Stromberg 97 that I got from a fellow EFV-8 club member. Took the windshield out today and replaced it with a spare from a standard that I bought from a Ford Barn guy last year. The standard windshield and frame will remain in place while I am restoring my DeLuxe Windshield and frame. TM |
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor The carb is probably flooding due to either a problem with the float or a non sealing needle valve. As you have had the tank out and back in, the needle valve is favourite. A 94 will only leak if the float level is too high (bad float or needle valve) or the power valve is bad.
It might be worth fitting a filter between the fuel pipe and pump for a while until things settle down. Mart. |
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor Thanks Mart. Not going to worry about rebuilding the "59" -- will install all my new stuff when the weather breaks; 49-50 degrees F yesterday--12 degrees F today.
Also discovered that the car slips out of second gear on occasion. Thanks to all who troubled to respond. TonyM. |
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor .
. . deleted post |
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor Slipping out of second is a traditional issue, I am told, especially when going downhill without acceleration. Before our tranny rebuild I learnt to keep yer' hand pressing forward on the shifter when in second.
Love the robe cord, we put one into the Phaeton. For a while I had a blanket with a Ford logo hanging there that I got from KenCT at the Auburn CNM 2012. (Ken treated me well and let me keep almost all my limbs.;) I think I did him a favor because he said he'd hauled that blanket ten thousand miles around the country before I got my wallet out.) Did the fuel sender work out okay? I've had to fiddle with ours (and the gauge) quite a bit. Was working fine for a year then it developed a leak in the float so it read empty all the time. It was replaced with a float from a new gauge, refitted into our old sender. -VT/Jeff |
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor Quote:
Jeff, Have not reconnected the sender wire because the wire is so deteriorated. I have a complete harness from Narrangansette Reproductions for a complete re-wire. |
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor 5 Attachment(s)
1937 Ford Aluminum Intake, Stromberg 97, new fuel pump and fuel line to be installed soon; re-wired tail lights, crossover harness, body harness and fuel sender up to the front--here are the old wires, which were found to be in very poor condition; these tail light looms look good but in reality are really breaking down. I put in new harness from Narrangansette Reproductions.
I will be taking out the front seat so that I can rewire under the instrument panel and through the dash; have new fuse block/resisting unit. Rewired headlights and horns; headlight harness is ready to install up to the switch body. Stop light switch had about a quarter inch of grime and grease encasing it. Cleaned it up and re-installed--hope it works; if not I have a new one. Looking forward to finishing up the rewire and manifold install. The weather is breaking so the unheated garage won't be so unheated. |
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor Looks like you're really taking care of things.
Nice shiney new parts. Mmmmmmmm Mart. |
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor 6 Attachment(s)
After thinking about it for many months, I decided to try and stabilize this headliner by adding really stiff (but thin) cardboard to hold the headliner in place and prevent it from flapping around. It looks like it will work. I am even thinking of mixing some paint for the airbrush and paint the cardboard to match the color of the headliner.
|
Re: 1937 Ford Fordor Survivor That looks like it will work well. Since you are going to paint to match the headliner, what would you think about making it one peice cardboard frfom front to rear and matching the contour of the car and headliner and mounting it like you have with stainless screws. Marv
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:11 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.