Originally Posted by Dobie Gillis (Post 2058730)

Assuming no add-on electric fuel pump there is no fuse. The stock pump is mechanical. There appears to be a filter (the brass object in the rubber hose in the photo). I would disconnect the hose above the filter and crank the engine to see if you're getting fuel to that point. If yes than then replace the filter if that's what it is. We need some history on the car if possible, such as any fuel lines replaced, etc.

Originally Posted by casper_wcx13 (Post 2058731)

No fuel is getting to the bigger fuel filter right next to to carburetor when i crank it. I will try and see if the brass one is the one giving me problems.


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Originally Posted by Dobie Gillis (Post 2058752)

OK, now remove the rubber hose that has the brass piece in it (I don't think that's a filter now, it looks like a hose coupler) and crank again to see what comes directly out of the pump. If you still get only a small amount of fuel disconnect the inlet hose at the pump and blow compressed air into the hose after loosening/removing the gas cap. There could be some trash/crud in the line from the tank. The other possibility (remote) is that you created an air leak in one of the rubber hoses while replacing the radiator hoses. Do you have any idea of the age/condition of the rubber fuel hoses?

Originally Posted by Alaska Jim (Post 2058769)

no matter where the problem is, I would also replace that plastic fuel filter next to the carb. with a metal one. that clear plastic filter has the possibility of getting hot and maybe melting enough to cause a leak and potential fire, being that close to the metal parts of the engine. it does not look to be supported by anything other than the rubber fuel hose. just my opinion

Originally Posted by casper_wcx13 (Post 2058786)

Im doing that also [emoji1303]


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Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan (Post 2058859)

Are you sure that the fuel lines connected to the pump aren't backwards. On mine, the lower hole is connected to the line that comes from the gas tank. There might be "IN" and "OUT" markings, but some pumps don't have it.

Originally Posted by casper_wcx13 (Post 2058875)

... The air fuel mixture ratio on the carb seems a lil off , for a v8 it dont accelerate too fast. Ive tried setting it to the manufacturers specs bit it still seems a lil off. Any other info on what i can do to make it run better .

Originally Posted by dmsfrr (Post 2059018)

The fuel lines look backwards to me too. On the Y-block fuel pumps I have the line from the tank goes into the pump fitting toward the front side of the housing and the fuel line up to the carburetor comes from the more rear side of the pump housing.

casper_wcx13,
What carburetor and distributor are on the engine?

If it has the original style Loadomatic distributor from '55 it may need some extra attention.
Example photos below.
They are totally vacuum dependent for the ignition timing advance. If the vacuum line from the carburetor or the diaphragm in the vacuum canister is leaking you won't get any timing advance.
Also if the points breaker plate is stuck and can't turn, it needs cleaning & lubrication.
.

Originally Posted by casper_wcx13 (Post 2059084)

If its not one thing or another smh i went to take it to the mechanic and could not get it started . The battery is fully charged it just clicks now and wont crank over

Originally Posted by dmsfrr (Post 2059087)

If the battery really is fully charged...
Any of the battery cable terminals could be dirty, including the ground cable to the block/engine.
If your '55 still has the 6 volt setup it needs large "0" size battery & starter cables.

Originally Posted by casper_wcx13 (Post 2059088)

Its been converted to 12 volts


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Originally Posted by casper_wcx13 (Post 2059094)

The voltage on both connections on the external resistor glow bright red but the connection going to the distributor cap is very dim. Could the resistor be bad ?