Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

Can anyone advise the correct name of this style electrical wiring connector??

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

Flag ring terminal, if you want open slip on it is flag fork terminal

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

Bob, check your email.

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

Soldered, not crimped, which is what you want to do.
The "crimped" style is NOT the way to go, take the little extra time and solder your ALL your connectors...you'll be much happier down the road...and on the road.

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

Here is my take on soldering and crimping. This is from some information given to me many many years ago early in my career.

Most of the crimping done is not done correctly. The crimping tools you get at the hardware store do not provide a good enough crimp. You will need to use the ratcheting type of crimper that is properly adjusted. To see if you have a proper crimp you need to cut a sample in half and examine the crimp under a microscope. The strands of the wires should be pressed together to form a gas tight crimp and the connector should be tight. the gas tight crimp will keep the oxygen out and prevent corrosion.

I was told that soldering will cause stress in the wire that could eventually cause failure. The solder wicks up the wire and forms a ridged section that does not bend. The wire bends where the solder ends and that is where the wire will break if it gets enough movement. I was told that the crimp connector does not have this problem because of the plastic part that provides a form of stress relief.

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

Isn't there a compromise on soldered connections? I seem to remember the ideal is properly crimped and heat shrunk sealed.

*Edit, see above.

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

Thanks Brent!!!

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

I always solder & heat shrink. For a quick get me by I will crimp.

While I am no professional, I know a few ... they solder &heat shrink also.


When I went to a community collage to be a electrician ... I dropped out.
The instructor explained he could tie a knot in the wires and make it strong enough to hold.
It was the solder that maintained the proper resistance flow of 2 wires being connected.


Imagine a crimp on splice, you insert both wires in the end, crimp them together. Now your 16 AWG becomes a 10 AWG then back to 16 AWG again.
Pretty sure a 1938 Ford tail light wire wont care :) But something more delicate like a motor or controller it may care.



Also have to remember there is different quality of wire. House wire is single strand.
Automotive wire is multi strand. Then some areas like inside a distributor you want a very flexible wire ... just a guess here, thinking it has more copper strands then normal?
Then there are different types of solder. You have solder to put your copper water pipes together under your house, and it does solder wire. Not really the stuff you want to use on your car wiring or on a electric motor.


Solder is fine, just select right products for the job.

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

As noted previously, a PROPERLY crimped connection is FAR superior to a soldered connection.
HOWEVER, WHAT WAS NOT NOTED IS, a soldered connection is superior to a poorly crimped connection.

A properly crimped connection needs to be done with a special tool with a ratcheting or POSITIVE CLOSING feature. This tool achieves enough pressure to get what is called "metal migration" which is actually fusion welding. The two parts are actually welded together. This is far better than a solder connection which is a MECHANICAL connection ONLY.

Crimping tools with a single pivot point can NOT achieve enough pressure to form an adequate crimp.

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

The Navy discouraged solder connections on aircraft except the cannon plug pins that had to be soldered. If there was a break that is where it would be; right at the juncture of the soldered pin and the wire. The solder made wire stiff right there and vibration could eventually fracture it if it wasn’t adequately supported.

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

About wire: House wire is single strand except for large gauge wire. It is not subject to flexing. Automotive wire is multiple strand because it is subject to flexing. Wire that is subject to lots of flexing, like welding cable, has many more strands that are fine gauge. Wire that is subject to moisture, like boats, is tin plated to prevent corrosion. Automotive wire used on boats will have corrosion start at the cut end and travel up the wire to eventually produce a copper oxide wire which is not conductive.

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

And cheaply soldered connections are probably worst of all. Those generic universal replacement battery cables in the blister-pacs on the racks are made this way.

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

When a Electronics Technician years ago on the line testing tape drives for IBM ('66 to '68), when we had to crimp a connector, had to use a calibrated tool that was within the usage date to insure a correct connection. There was a tool for each size connector. Believe the tools were made by Berg. There were several soldered wires on the drive and we were required to be a certified solderer to repair connections.

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

Can anyone provide a link or photos of a "correct" wire crimper tool? I'm curious as to what they look like and if they are "cheap enough" for the common man. I'm a solder wires kind of guy, but would look in to getting a crimper if they aren't outrageous.

Red

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

Want to cross post a link from Steve, hope he does not get mad at me for it ... but he really says a lot here.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ng-101.843579/

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

I was driving back from Reno about 5 years ago when smoke started coming out of the dash panel. Pulled over and removed dash.The solder eye connector to the ammeter had become to hot and came loose. This loom was purchased from one of our venders. The fuse did not blow. I crimp joints on DC and use twist connectors on AC house which is code ,UBC. Best thing to do is make the electrical system
a little more modern. ie: Head Light connections.

Let, All go for a drive in our Model A's

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

Here is a link that shows several different brands and sizes. REMEMBER, single pivot point crimpers are worthless.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+tool&_sacat=0

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

Oh please. I'll grant you that good crimpers are a good idea, but I've had lots and lots of single pivot crimps (not a cheap crimper, but still single pivot) in my sailboat last 30 years and still going strong. And that's a tough salty vibration and flexing type environment.

Heavy battery cables? Sure, those are the size of your thumb and done with very large compound crimpers.

Re: Crimp style connector/wiring question
 

May be 'food for thought', may be a bit of completely irrelevant information: on the AGC, the 'Apollo Guidance Computer', all electrical connections were crimped, not soldered. Partly because they feared that little solder balls would float in zero-g and be inhaled by astronauts, partly because vibrations may cause breaking of wires near solder joints...


More likely completely irrelevant... :)