First time adjusting rod and mains Well Monday we're going to be putting the A on my neighbors two post lift (advice welcome) and pulling pan to check and adjust rods and mains also inspecting conditions of babbitt and crank, checking oil pump and just plain learning where I'm at with my new-to-me A Model. The guy I bought her from only bought it to flip and really doesn't have much info, I called the o'l boy who actually restored the car 30 - 40 years ago, he's now 84 and failing memory so limited info. So if I want to know what I got this is the only way I know. I figure if I go through the process of setting the clearances I will have a starting point for the next 10,000 mile inspection. Any and all advice and suggestions are welcome. Before I get asked or told, "Yes" I've got Les's book.
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Re: First time adjusting rod and mains ricconhan,
About the only advice I can give. Is to do a good search on the ...'Barn here for past threads on your subject. I'll be interested in what you find and info that others give about adjusting the rods/mains. I would like to do the same on my roadsters "B" block. Good Luck!;) Bob-A:D |
Re: First time adjusting rod and mains If you find a buildup in the bottom of the pan that should lead to cleaning out the oil galley behind the valve cover.
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Re: First time adjusting rod and mains Its a good thing to check the clearances and clean up the pan. I prefer to use plastigauge and set all clearances to .0015". I also like both shims to be the same thickness. When checking the mains I put a little up pressure on the crank to keep it tight in the upper bearing half.
You'll probably find the most wear on the center main and a bit lesser on the rear. But I set them all at .0015". The front main may not be worn at all or enough to worry about. With the rods mind the orientation of the caps. Do one at a time as all the caps [ rods and mains] have to go back to the same they came off of. Don't mix them up. Make sure there are no rust holes in the dipper tray. The dipper tray can be pried out or popped out. When all back together pour at least qt of oil thru the distributor hole to get oil to the dipper tray and valve chamber. Check the oil pump for clearance and condition. Usually just flipping the bottom plate is all thats needed. This is all after the condition of the bearings is found to be good. You'll probably never have to do this again. |
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Re: First time adjusting rod and mains One way to do it perform annual inspections,pull the engine annually,put it on a stand and go through it..the quality of work is better than working on it "in frame"..
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Re: First time adjusting rod and mains Thanks to you all I'll take any and all advice.
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Re: First time adjusting rod and mains Pull the engine every year, stick it on a stand, adjust the bearings ? WOW
You boys have a whole lot of ambition. |
Re: First time adjusting rod and mains I don't believe you have access to the rear main cap from the oil pan.
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Re: First time adjusting rod and mains if the correct bolts were used (locking heads), you can remove the rear main cap with the pan removed.....
Plastiguage is OK for clearance but I like the "go/no go" method using heavy duty aluminum foil spacers. Easier and possibly more accurate..... |
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The is enough room. |
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Aluminum foil method is more accurate ????? I can't wait to hear about that. |
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Re: First time adjusting rod and mains FWIW, this is the method that I am using on my car. Not a recommendation, just sharing another way that, to my way of thinking makes sense. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MH3HtTnshQ
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Re: First time adjusting rod and mains Lay on your back with oil dripping in your eyes trying to precisely set a main bearing doesn't necessarily give good results.nor does it lend itself to a leak free oil pan.Torquing is a pain too.its fairly easy to pull the engine especially if you use some sense,like installing decent connectors in the headlight harness.One caveat,I enjoy maintaining the car as much as driving it..On an annual everything gets checked,leaks fixed,improvements made...
https://i.imgur.com/ObXJfUH.jpg?1 full disclosure,I push mine pretty hard too |
Re: First time adjusting rod and mains I don't use Plastiguage any more after I found I was getting too many unreliable readings when the engine was in the car. That was mostly due to my technique. The weight of the crankshaft gave false (tight) readings. When the engine is out and upside down, fine but not in the car.
The aluminium foil my wife uses is 0.0005" thick so 3 layers is just right. I also like a piece of newspaper (if you can get it these days) but that technique is slightly different. Examination of the paper after tightening the bearing cap tells me a lot about the clearance - too tight/too loose. I'll explain that later if anyone wants to know. With all bearings backed off, the motor turns very easily (spark plugs out). I put 4 layers in the bearing, tighten and try turning the crank. It should be too tight. When I put 3 layers in and it turns with a little drag, I'm happy. If the crank still turns easily, the Bearing is worn so take out a shim and repeat till you feel a drag with 3 layers. Once you get that bearing right back it off and move to the next. Don't be impatient and do only one bearing at a time. Doing all 7 bearings properly takes time. |
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