Re-torque head nuts
 

I had to pull three studs due to leaking. I cleaned, resealed and installed them back in the block. The heads are still on the motor.
My question is how do I torque these down?
Should I torque them in steps? 45,50,55?
Should I torque all the head studs in sequence again? (I already did my five hot/cold cycles, five because of the supercharger and manufacturers recommendation).
Do I simply re-torque these straight up to 55 lbs?
The stud are #1, #10 and #13
Thank you, Joe

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

I don't know if there is an official procedure.

Gut feeling tells me that I would torque directly to the previously torqued value. Straight to 55 lbs ft.

But then make sure these get rechecked over three or more heat cycles. (check them all).

I just keep checking them all until nothing moves any more.

Mart.

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

my thoughts follow the factory sequence cant go wrong if its tight it wont move and you've checked all the rest at the same time

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

Hi Joe, hope all's well?

You still battling the stud leaks?

No need to retorque single studs in steps, just go straight to the necessary torque (55#)

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S Did you get the pan gasket (dipstick) OK. Went out of here a while back! I sent a little heavier one to you.

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

Hey Gary, all good here! Got the gasket, thanks. haven't installed it yet. Hope you're doing well. Give me a call sometime

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

Still have leaks on two of the three studs I pulled. I used Permatex aviation. I’m running straight water right now. Anything else I could try?

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

I use teflon hi temp thread sealer from napa. Fuel and antifreeze resistant and works great

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

Joe for lord knows how many years all I ya used is 3m weatherstrip cement on a kazillion chevs & flatheads head studs or any stud/ bolt in water jackets with zero issues.
Cheers
TP

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

Really? Can you elaborate on this? I know they make black or yellow. Does it matter? Just brush it on?
Thanks

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

Thanks jetmek. That was to be my second option

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

Yellow or black in tube.

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

Is that a Napa brand or Permatex?

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

Well I tried the Permatex high temp with teflon and they still leak as bad as they did originally. I'm going to try Kiwi's idea with the 3M weatherstrip adhesive.
Am I missing something here?? The first time I used Permatex Aviation and just lightly snugged the studs in the block. The second time I hand tighten.
Anyone want to chime In??? Third times a charm

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

The trouble with thread sealers is that they are typically made to seal tapered threads (pipe threads). What is needed on a straight thread (like a stud going to water) is a sealer that "sets up" or "cures". I like to use a good brand of RTV silicone on the threads and lightly snug the studs into the block. The threads on studs and block must be scrupulously clean and bone dry when installing,and a few hours without water on the back sides to cure. They never leak,and come out easily next time.
Alternately, loctite blue (242) can be used as well. It will be a bit harder to remove next time but will seal well.



Terry

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

Thank you Terry!

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

I have found this sealant to work EXCELLENTLY. Bought this at O'Reilly's.

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

I friend stopped over today and noticed the studs were still dripping after the car was turned off for about 10 minutes. I'm running an aftermarket radiator that came with a 16lb. cap. Could this be a pressure issue?? I ordered a 7lb. cap which was the lowest I could find.

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

Thanks Fordy!

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

You should change out the cap, but not quite for the reason you stated. The cap rating is the maximum pressure the system should see before it is released to the overflow. But the pressure comes from the heat in the coolant and unless your over heating it shouldn't get that hot. The higher pressures allow the coolant to reach a higher temperature before it boils. You would not want a coolant temperature in the range that a 16 lb cap would allow. Unless the radiator (and the rest of the coolant system) is designed for that high of pressures and temperatures you could damage the system.

Re: Re-torque head nuts
 

The radiator is an aluminum aftermarket unit and it came with the 16lb. cap.
I can run it all day with the electric fan on at a steady 190*. The temp hasn't gone past 190* even when it was 94*outside and I was driving it hard for an hour. I put the 7lb. cap on this morning before a ride. When I turned off the car, only three out of five were dripping. So I'm not really sure what's going on yet. Still running straight water at the moment until this is straightened out. I'm still going to pull the leaking studs, clean and reinstall with Permatex Thread sealant with PTFE
Thanks