Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? I was wondering how you eliminated blow back and bare spots when painting into an enclosed frame pocket. I still use a siphon gun on sheet metal topcoats even though I do have a high quality HVLP gun. The time involved in prep work and the cost of paint is such I am chicken to take a chance with something I am not completely used to. I still use the same siphon gun I bought in 1972 (DeVilbiss JGA 502).
Wish I could farm out the body/prep/paint work! |
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Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? V8: No doubt about it, when it comes to 40 Fords,
Mike is an "supranatural resource" with the patience of a toothache. |
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Use "Thread Tools" on the red bar. |
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A good day indeed!
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The Nason is simply that - Nason. No affiliation with DuPont that I am aware of. I've been using DuPont Chromabase on the sheet metal for the last six cars or so. Typically four coats of color and three or four coats of clear. I figure on sanding off one coat of clear prior to buffing. I have learned to manage the ChromaBase fairly well and have grown comfortable with it. |
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Not too shabby, especially for a day that started-out at about 17 degrees. DD https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...0&d=1573774867 |
Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? That would be great
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Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? Super!
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Sorry but now the project as always slows. The body work takes more time than any other part of my restorations. I'd mentioned in an earlier post that to keep me fairly sane, I will often prepare subassemblies while the body work continues - just for a little break in the action.
In the past week, I'd managed to complete quite a few things. The horn / bracket assembly as well as the headlamp bucket assemblies are ready to install. Some of you may note all of the requisite hardware is in place. Once I start assembling the car, I like to stay in the assembly mode and not have to switch in (and out of) the search mode. |
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The body work is going along actually quite well. In a different thread here on the Barn, the question was raised as to the quality of the reproduction rear tool tray pan.
Well, let's say it's "okay". Better than what I had for certain. Still, it required a lot of work to get it to fit properly. this one came from Pacific Parts. I do not know if they supply Drake and Carpenter. If you look at the photos carefully, you'll see I had to cut each side near the fender mount and move the panel in. About 1/8" was required on the left side, nearly 1/4" on the right side. My guess is most guys would simply install this pan and figure "good enough". Me? I can't seem to force myself to accept "good enough". This pan was simply too wide. From my experience as a tool maker, it appears to have been formed poorly. Anyway, it's welded up and the shape and width are now correct for a '40 Ford. |
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Managed to get the backing plate assemblies done as well. I have found it so much easier to have these ready to install to the spindles and rear axle housings as assemblies than build them on the chassis.
I did have to shorten the spring that is over the brake cable. The reproduction is fit with a spring at each end that is considerably longer than it was authentically and will cause issues if left as received. |
Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? Looking good Mike!
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Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? Mike,
Might I ask how the ?!?! you remove the brake adjusters to have them plated?? |
Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? count me in too! Hugh
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Made a bit more progress this past week. Ya laugh but here goes:
The trunk lid did not fit as well as I would like. It was in fact too close in many areas to the body. You can note in the photos some of my inked marks as to where I needed to cut the edges and where I needed to add to them. Now the lid fits beautifully. Back fenders? I ended up cutting the flange that the attachment bolts go through in order to match the curve of the fenders with the curve of the body. Yes, the welt would conceal most of this mismatch but I'd know it was lurking. So, cutting the "flange" in a number of spots allowed me to move the fender around to where I was happy with it. Yes guys... it is a sickness :) |
Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? Nice work, Mike.
I can relate to this type of effort. We often have to remove thin sections of fenders not originally from the subject project car to ensure proper fit and once in a while even if the fender was original equipment to the car. At times seriously original car bodies with original paint intact will show evidence of in-plant sheet metal 'adjustments'. Serious hammers were standard equipment in assembly plants until numerical control equipment minimized sheet metal variations that were previously inevitable in stamping operations. |
Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? Excellent work and discussion. It's good for all of us to know what it takes. How much of it we choose to apply is up to us, but at least we know what to do.
Thanks Mike (and the other contributors adding their thoughts). |
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I went through the then-new Corvette factory in Bowling Green, Ky. back in September of 1982. It was amazing as we got toward the end of the line, to watch some of the beating-on, bending, jerking-on, tugging and whanging with fists and open palms to make various components fit something like the original design called for. Barbaric process for sure, yet most of 'em didn't look too shabby going out the big door. DD |
Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? I think it's really cool that "Kube" is willing to share his knowledge and show the results with others. Lots of folks take it all with them on their last ride.
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Yikes, NO....can't be!! TOO much still left to do. DD |
Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? A Nason paint system was mentioned previously. I think they are now under the Axalta banner along with Dupont coatings by brand names. Dupont coatings was spun off some years ago to Axalta. I was around Nason way back when I worked in a NAPA warehouse while going to aviation school but I've not used any of there stuff. It's been a while since I used Imron Elite but it and Chromabase are also Axalta products now days.
I sort of avoid painting the helicopters now days because it's so much work with a million rivets to block around. Because of this, I'm well aware how much fun the frames and interior pieces would be to refinish. My hat is off to those that make the attempt. |
Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? Yes!
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Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? Hi Mike, I just found your thread on the restoration. Count me in. Thanks Larry
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I probably should have photographed the process of replacing the torque tube bearing but once I was immersed in that project, I didn't "look up" until I was done. I am so happy I relieved my wallet years ago when offered the KR Wilson tools dedicated for this task. |
Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? I'll bet it's cool to use tools specifically made for the task.
I search and search for a good deal on them. I completely understand what u mean when u say "relieve your wallet" I ended up making some of the tools I used in rebuilding my Columbia. It's been a few years now since the rebuild and I've never had an issue with it since. Of course with the info from the guys on here it makes it a bit easier to achieve. |
Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? I have my torque tubes powder coated on the outside and since they have been sandblasted inside and out, I Glyptol the inside of the tube so it won't rust. It is really effortless to pull in the new center bearing with the KRW tool. I sight down and line up the arrow on the tool with the hole for the grease fitting, wipe a little liquid soap on the outer rubber donut and it slides in up to the stop very easily, dead on the grease hole in the T tube with the grease hole in the rubber donut.
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Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? I will get to that later today.
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Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? The one I made is pretty much like the KRW and didn't cost much. This is a link to one that is similar to mine. Mine is more refined since I have a lot of resources at hand. The KRW stuff will cost more in money but less in time. Both get the job done.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...eshaft+bearing |
Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? Pictures of KRW Torque Tube center bearing tool.[IMG]https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/pictu...ictureid=42221[/IMG]
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/pictu...ictureid=42222[/IMG] https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/pictu...ictureid=42223 Note the end the bearing goes on is solid with the shaft and has a square notch that a square rubber protrusion (which is in line with grease hole in the rubber) from the rubber the bearing is encased in locks the bearing so it cannot spin on the shaft. At the transmission bell end note that the disk has an arrow to line up the tool with the grease fitting hole, I temporarily install a new grease fitting to more easily sight down and line up the tool. Also notice the groove in the shaft and the pin in the disk that prohibits the disk from turning on the shaft and prevents the shaft from turning relative to the disk. These things are what makes the tool so easy to use and accurate. |
Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? Thanks for sharing! Now about 200 of us can be on the look-out for one..... hahaha
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Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? There is also a similar KRW tool for removing the old center bearing. This tool will allow you to remove the bearing without damaging it. Usually they are beyond reusing but occasionally one is still nice enough to use over.
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I've never considered reusing that bearing as it's too much work to R&R after the car is restored and assembled. |
Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? I have taken a few bearings out where the bearing look OK but the rubber was like bubble gum.
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Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? Rubber in it's natural form, doesn't have a very long life span even if kept in controlled environments. Neoprene lasts longer but is still life limited and vulnerable to ozone and some solvents. The fluorocarbon and fluorosilicon elastomers have the longest shelf and working life but they are more expensive to produce. Both were developed in the mid 50s due to a need for low and high temp seals for aerospace applications with good swell resistance to lubricants and solvents. If they could use more modern elastomers, to reproduce stuff like this then it would last a very long time. I'm not sure what is used on the ones Skip sells but it is likely neoprene.
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Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? Skip Haney sent me instructions along with the center bearing on how to install the bearing with a tool fabricated from PVC pipe. Worked great and was cheap to make! used it on my '40 pickup.
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Re: Interest in new restoration project thread? Is Skip's bearing a sealed bearing or is the grease fitting on the TT still in play?
Good use of this thread while waiting for the next installment of pictures from Kube! |
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