Why Hot Ignition Key??
 

Mine is a 48 Tudor street rod; but I identify MORE with the in-depth knowledge and responses from this group that the Hamb, etc. I've put over 17k miles it in the past three years without any major changes. I did have the a/c serviced about 2 months ago. I drive it about an hour almost every week; just because I enjoy driving it. Last drive; when I went to remove the ignition key, it was VERY warm, almost to the point of being hot. What could cause that? Thanks!!!

Re: Why Hot Ignition Key??
 

Loose connection where the wires connect to the switch or the switch contacts internal not making good contact.

Re: Why Hot Ignition Key??
 

Planojc makes good points. If the connections are tight, the heat must be coming from internal contacts. IF the ignition switch is original it is not designed to handle the loads of a street rod's accessories. With the switch getting that hot, it might be about to fail. consider putting everything (especially the AC and electric fans) but the ignition on relays and let the switch trigger the relay instead of carrying the load.

Re: Why Hot Ignition Key??
 

Pretty sure you have (assuming Ford type lock and switch) a repro switch body. Bad contacts heat it up and the badly chosen plastic softens enough for the contacts to sink in...go get the original, open it up, and clean and polish everything.

Re: Why Hot Ignition Key??
 

If you had a 46 or maybe early 47 or older there wouldn't be any thing electrical about the key switch. 6A-11572-B is the part number for the OEM type switch if I'm not mistaken. I'd look for an NOS or good used part like Bruce mentioned. They are still out there since they used them in pickups for a while.

Re: Why Hot Ignition Key??
 

The info contained in 40cpe contribution is spot on. The Ford ignition switch was never intended to supply power to anything other that the ignition. Electric heaters did not appear in Ford cars until 1939, the majority of which were dealer installed, the same being true of radio's.

Re: Why Hot Ignition Key??
 

Or wire them up totally separate from the ignition switch using something like a toggle switch panel. You can still use relays even with a separate switching panel. Relays are always a good idea for a have current using device.

Re: Why Hot Ignition Key??
 

Many thanks for all the info!!!!!

Re: Why Hot Ignition Key??
 

I have a pull type switch to get everything going electrically somewhere under the dash, then a starter button or just a simple key switch to actually start the car. Works great and helps as an antitheft theft deterrent ..... so far, so good

Re: Why Hot Ignition Key??
 

When I installed sealed beam head lights in my '36 in 1952 I installed a GM type of a relay in the circuit that supplied power to the head/tail lights, the only things that get power from the original '40 ignition switch in my car is the ignition and heater. The radio is still wired directly to a hot terminal that is not switched other than the switch within the radio..
Learned a long time ago that if the radio is wired through the ignition switch, and the switch does not have an accessory side, if you want to play the radio without the engine running, the points will burn up.. Been there done that, fortunately I had a finger nail file to clean up the points and get the car going.

Re: Why Hot Ignition Key??
 

This "street rod" was originally built in the mid-90s. Completely redone in 2001 with ZZ4 crate engine, TH350, a/c, Heidts front end, complete Hot Rod Wires kit, etc, etc, etc, etc. Found that the ignition switch kit (American Autowire p/n 500456) may be the probable culprit. Ordered new kit from Summit Racing.

Again; I sincerely appreciate that most members here have "accepted" me as "one of you" even though I prefer a street rod over a stock car. My 1st car was a black 1947 Ford Tudor Sedan. Since I was born in 1948, I found and purchased a black 1948 Ford Tudor sedan street rod exactly as I would have built one (for much less than half if I had built it myself). Again, many thanks for your acceptance of me and for your continued assistance.

Re: Why Hot Ignition Key??
 

With respect, you can get much better responses from any site you go to as long as you let folks know how the problematic system you have is constructed, ie partially OEM old tech equipment or completely replaced by modern tech equipment. Modern wiring technology is a lot different than the old OEM technology was. An example would be to let us know if you are still using an old 1947 type switch or not and what all you have wired to that switch.

If we know what you have, we can give a lot better responses in less time. I'm sure the guys on the HAMB could too but there are some die hard traditionalists over there. Then again that's what the HAMB is all about. A lot of the guys on here also frequent the HAMB but this site is more OEM equipment related than the HAMB is plus a little more relaxed environment.

Re: Why Hot Ignition Key??
 

Bruce a 48 ford has an on / off key ignition switch, like a 48 F! or 49 car.

Re: Why Hot Ignition Key??
 

Rick, are you using the switch for an on/off device and a seperate button for starter?, if so those key repo switches go bad after a few years, 8n tractors owners wrestle with this all the time, get yourself an nos on off key switch for a Ford 8n tractor.

Re: Why Hot Ignition Key??
 

I recently had a 'hot' to the touch ignition switch and figured the switch was giving up. But after tightening the nuts fastening the wires, the heat did not reoccur. The ignition switch is asked to carry major current and admittedly thoughts of relays passed through me head. I admit to using cheap quality Bosch relays often. Right now I have one on the OD solenoid ($4 for Bosch vs $150 for Ford). And one for my electric fuel pump. Pull out the ash tray slightly to activate it.