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Changing just the rubber donuts/bolts to 47 trans mount Need some advice
Ok... so with the new motor mounts the driveline shimmy is diminished.. So I know I need to replace the transmission mount (rubber around is shot).. My question, without replacing the whole mount, can I replace the two donut cushioned bolts on each side as a temporary fix?.. Sometime in the Fall; I plan to R&R the transmission and replace the whole mount but just want to get the driveline shimmy under control until I can replace everything.. I know it is like a very stop-gap measure but that's why I am asking for advice.. :confused: |
Re: Changing just the rubber donuts/bolts to 47 trans mount What?... nobody has advice on this? Come on F-Barners... don't leave me hanging..
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Re: Changing just the rubber donuts/bolts to 47 trans mount I recently replaced the trans mount on my 47 coupe, there were no donuts involved, just the rubber encased rear mount. part #21A-6068.
Regards, Steve |
Re: Changing just the rubber donuts/bolts to 47 trans mount Walt; Does your transmission mount look like any of these?
https://www.bobdrake.com/FordItem.aspx?Item=21A-6068-A OR https://www.bobdrake.com/Categories2...51enginemounts If it's the second one, let me know and I can help. JIM |
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Re: Changing just the rubber donuts/bolts to 47 trans mount The stiffer the engine is tied down from fore and aft motion, the less susceptible it is to clutch chatter. My '41 has the chatter/torque rods connecting the bell housing to the front cross member, It also has all new mounts and a clean clutch disk, and I have no chatter problem.
I once had a '48 with no chatter rods, and it had a big chatter problem. I replaced the motor and transmission mounts, which helped. Then I went back and really tightened down on the mounts to stiffen and resist engine motion. That helped a lot more. The problem was not completely resolved until I replaced the clutch disk, which had gotten oil on it. |
Re: Changing just the rubber donuts/bolts to 47 trans mount 1 Attachment(s)
Short answer to your question is no. A half baked biscuit is not edible. The bolt assembly doesn't usually wear out, but the rubber does. If you remove transmission cover inside the car you will see those bolts. Should have a cotter pin in each nut. Remove cotter pin and tighten each nut to remove any slack that may be present due to worn biscuits. Perhaps that will solve your problem.
However, with just a little more work you can remove the biscuits and replace the whole assembly. Here's how. After unscrewing the nut take a punch and tap on the top of the threaded end of the bolt. It will fall through onto the floor. then jack up your transmission just enough to remove the old biscuits and install the new. install new lower biscuits, lower the transmission down making sure everything lines up for the bolt, insert the bolt from the bottom and reassemble. Reinstall floor pan. Done. That's what I did on my 40. I am pretty sure your's is the same. You can do it. in the photo, 60 years ago someone installed acorn nuts instead of castle nuts |
Re: Changing just the rubber donuts/bolts to 47 trans mount There are no rubber biscuits on 42-8 Ford car transmissions. The rear mount bolts to a saddle affair that goes from one side to the other and had rubber inside of it. The center of the saddle sets overt and bolts to a u shaped short crossmember in the center of the frame X. If the rubber in that mount is shot then that needs to be changed.
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Re: Changing just the rubber donuts/bolts to 47 trans mount The saddle mount can be changed from underneath the car without pulling the transmission or removing the floor panel.
Ideally you would do it with the car on a hoist as it is a bear of a job and you have to jack the back of the tranny hard up under the floor. I have done it with a car on jack stands but saying that, I'm not in a hurry to do it again. |
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Re: Changing just the rubber donuts/bolts to 47 trans mount The picture: Biscuits til '41. They support weight of engine and resist roll, but not the fore-aft forces, which are handled via steady rods. '42-8 as noted uses a saddle one piece mount designed to resist the fore-aft drive forces without rods. Problems arise when the rubber within the thing pulls loose from the steel attachment parts, which I believe are made in India now.
Ford Canada supported many '42's in the African desert during WWII and experienced those failures in the desert war...they releases a kit containing '41 rods and hardware, detailed in the Canadian service bulletins. Look over your new mount...you may be able to apply a traditional SBC Chevy cure for failing motor mounts. After replacing too many ripped apart bonded left mounts on race cars, they ran a bolt through both metal plates and the rubber...at one end the threaded part was trimmed back to the threaded hole in one plate for clearance, at the other end head of bolt could be ground for extra clearance. Bolt both compressed the rubber and prevent apart type moves by the plates. This may be possible here...it has been a long time since I've had to look at my mount, thank heavens, so i do not remember if there's room. |
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