36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

At the risk of getting tweaked, here goes: :) for my fourth project (the others have been of 60s vintage) I’m building a 1936 Three Window Coupe. However, after searching for two years while I finished my 63 Falcon, I could not find a “real” car to begin with. Having always loved the fat-fendered hot rods, I wanted to build a coupe as a hot rod with updated suspension, drive train, and electronics, but otherwise appear fairly normal. At any rate, all I could find were finished high dollar cars, total rust buckets, or truly originals which I wouldn’t want to destroy. So, I broke down and bought a J. B. Donaldson glass body and fender package, and an original frame. Anyway, while JB does a good enough job of building a body, they are of no help in the build. I have bought several books, including the one from the Early Ford V8 club, and do not find anything that can help me with enough detail for attaching fenders, running boards, and all the panels and stuff at the nose. What I’d really like is to find an original coupe within a few hours of Memphis that someone would let me look at, crawl around, take pics, etc. Short of that, if any of you would be willing to help, let me know. I have the three brackets (reproductions) for the front and rear fenders, but it’s not obvious where they go. If I can start there, then maybe deal with the radiator, grill and so forth a little later, that might be good. Thanks, Donnie Rose 901 491-2804

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

Streetrodder did a build with that body...here's a link to the book they put out about the build....maybe it can help or you could look up the issues of the magazine that contained the build.....good luck....Mike

http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-Guide-to-B...VYTrR0&vxp=mtr

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

That book looked interesting; but was sold, check and found Amazon also has it new for $20.

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

Those are nice repro bodies.
Are they still in business?
You can probably take the measurements you want from a sedan but a trial and error mock up may be the best approach.
At least that's what I have found with 36 front sheet metal.

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

I saved this from the barn a few years ago
I take credit for none of this but hopes it helps me when I get ready to assemble mine.



36 ford fenders fit

Below may be the instructions you are thinking of. I do not remember who posted this on the old Ford Barn, but he is to be commended.

1 Start off by fitting the inner guard panels with the cooling louvers in them onto the frame with a couple of bolts.
2 Fit the running boards to locate and support the front fenders. Note that they can’t be moved forward or back much. Their position is fixed by the bits on the frame that stick out to support the body and also the forward end of the rear guards.
3 Fit the headlight/ fender supports to the frame.
4 Then hang the fenders over the inner guard panels and attach them to the running boards. Put in a few bolts to hold everything.
5 Fit the radiator and support bars.
6 Attach the hood support brackets on the firewall and radiator
7 With hood ornament temporarily in place using its rear two bolts to hold it on the radiator, adjust radiator rods so the stainless steel 33 inch long strip in hood center just fits between back of ornament and firewall bracket. Remove the ornament.
8 Then assemble and tighten the grille and the two side panels using all bolts. This will probably cause a fair bit of bad language and the need to stop for a drink but persevere You’ll need a piece of bar to help line up the holes, as if its anything like mine, I would have sworn that the three panels would never fit together, but they did.. Be very careful to align the edge of the grille and the side panels so that the surface of the panel is level with the surface of the grille, especially at the bottom.
9 Fit the grille and side panels to front fenders (the fender welt that goes between doesn’t seem to make a great deal of difference at this stage) and check how ornament holes line up. Ornament must be right over holes so bolts just drop in. If there is any stress on the ornament it will surely break. Check if the ears on radiator line up with grille top side mounting holes. If panels are painted use some masking tape for protection.
Either adjust the grille/side panel assembly or remove it and move the grille in relation to the side panels to improve the ornament fit or the alignment between the hood sides and the rear of the grille
10 I think this is the time to fit the small curved filler panels that go between the headlight support brackets and the joint between the horn grille panel and the fender.
11 If not already on, fit the hood and check the panel alignment.
12 You may need to pack under the radiator feet or even under the front hood mounting bracket but if car and frame are fairly straight they should be ok. There should be an anti squeak strip under the radiator mounting foot at least.
13 You’ll find that by pushing or pulling on the bottom of the grille the alignment can be changed dramatically.
14 The panel that fits between the bottom of the grille and the crossmember will help to give you the correct position for the bottom of the grille. It needs to be a good straight one.

Here is a reply to a posting I had on FORDBARN a few years ago.

Leave all bolts finger tight only until all is assembled.
Remember almost everything relies on the radiator, how it sits in frame and are all attachments soldered on in the correct place. Seventy two years is a long time for things to remain the same.

Attach running boards
Fit the headlight fender supports.
Fit the inner front panels( with the louvers) to the chassis. Don’t put bolts in holes yet which attach it to head light support bracket
Fit front fenders. They fit over the inner panels. Fit bolts which attach the fenders to the headlight support through the side panels, also to the body and running board.
Attach the grille side panels to the grille before attaching to car. Line up the rear of the grille with the curved part of the side cheek panels. Leave off the horn grilles as I think Henry only put them there so you can put your hand through them to get to some of the bolts.
Fit and tighten grille attachment bolts. Bolt heads are on grille side.
Fit the grille and panel assembly to the fenders leaving bolts loose.
Fit the small filler panels from under fender. These help to put the whole assembly in the right place.
Fit the splash guard which goes from the bottom of the grille to crossmember in place. Some swearing may be necessary to get this in the right place. It fits inside the bottom of the grille and helps align everything so a good straight one is necessary.
Temporarily fit radiator and pray that whoever assembled all the soldered on brackets put them in exactly the right place. Put radiator stay rods in place loosely.
Attach hood ornament to the radiator with c’sunk screws and allow the front of it to rest on grille. This is better to do with an old and genuine ford emblem as you know it is the correct size.
Fit hood attachment bracket to front of cowl and tighten.
Fit Stainless strip, preferably without hood attached to it (especially if you are doing this job alone) to the rear bracket and slip in the front bracket and attach it to the top of radiator.
Adjust the radiator rods so that the back of the hood ornament is almost touching the stainless center strip which should be 33 inches long. If the chassis is sitting level it would be a good idea to hang a plumb line to make sure the center of the grille/hood ornament/strip is directly over the centre line of the chassis.
Now if all is well you should be able to attach the small tabs on the side of the grille to the radiator and the front of the hood ornament to the top of the grille. You don’t want to stretch or strain the grille to fit the ornament bolts as the ornament was not designed to carry any stress. You may need to “massage” the grille a bit so the bolts will just drop in.
If the radiator seems to be too low it should be about twenty two and a quarter inches vertically from the front rail just in front of the x member up to the small bolt at the side of the grille. Pack up the radiator with some anti squeak strips. (Body to chassis webbing strip or similar). Check that the radiator is in fact vertical, as the feet that it sits on may not be level.
Remove the front or rear centre bracket and hood strip and assemble hood. Place it back on car. You’ll need at least two people to do this.
Check the fit. The front of side panels should be parallel with back of grille. The lower surface of the top parts of hood should be parallel with the top of the grille. If not you probably need to raise or lower the radiator a bit.
Tighten up some of the bolts and check everything as you go. Things don’t need to move much to change panel fit.
You may need to pack up the front hood attachment bracket on the radiator to get the hood at the right level.

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

Donaldson still advertises in Hemmings.
Paul in CT

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

I too looked at buying one of his bodies. Twenty grand just for the body and no fenders. Sure, there probably won't be any rust issues to contend with as compared to buying a non-restored version but a few weeks later came across one at a show for sale. Not particularly impressed with the fit of the trunk lid...

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

The real deal steel 3w coupes are still out there to be found. Glenn Sander's has a recent post here on a very nice barn find that he made a few months ago.

Here's a 3w coupe that's advertised in the classified section now.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215363

You could pm me with requests for specific pictures you may need.

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

JBD fiber g. Bodies are too expensive I've seen them on C-list rough But salvageable for a lot less. Lots of aftermarket steel sections available, cut out bad weld in new. JMO.
I do wish you the best on the project & Johns offer of pics with details you need should get you there.

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

JBD fiber g. Bodies are too expensive I've seen steel on C-list rough But salvageable for a lot less. Lots of aftermarket steel sections available, cut out bad weld in new. JMO.
I do wish you the best on the project & Johns offer of pics with details you need should get you there.

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

Thanks to all; and can't disagree with anyone about JB's bodies. Too expensive, fit isn't perfect, etc. They are still in business, but their main business is fiberglass storage tanks, not cars. I doubt that they do one car every year. I believe mine was the only one in 2016. At any rate, what's done is done. I really appreciate the detail from Lindsay; I will definitely save that for the actual panel fitments. I don't have a radiator or grill right now, looks like those need to be the next purchase. Thanks! Right now, my main effort is in getting the fenders and running boards mocked up so as to get the suspension components located; which I think I was finally successful with this weekend. See pic (if I can get it loaded). Also, even with several books in hand, I went ahead and ordered the one that is specific to this body that a couple of you mentioned, so hopefully there is a nugget or two in there. I will also be going to Dallas at the end of April to attend the Pate Swap Meet; I have one son living there who is building a 53 truck, so we might both get some good parts and info. Any of you familiar with that event? And I will PM John, as soon as I figure out how. :) Thanks again to all! Donnie

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

And before anyone mentions the Jeep wheels; no, they are not for the finished car! :) Scored the set of four wheels and tires off Craigslist this weekend for $130 just to get thru the build! Ha Ha! Thought you had me, uh! Donnie

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

Starting to look good ! !
Paul in CT

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

Lindsay,
Thanks VERY much for posting the fender fitting procedure. I've had mine on & off several times during my current build and I keep trying different sequences. I've got to try mine on again for fitment tomorrow, and I'll try the procedure you posted.
Thanks,
-Bob

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

Drose, it's looking good!

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

I can not take credit for any of the instructions!
I just saved them for when I hopefully get to the point to use them.
I found all the great info on here and the Hamb

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

Glenn Sanders '35 3w coupe barn find.....they are still out there........

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ight=barn+find

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

Hey Donnie, I too have a JB 3 window I purchased all ready completed. My doors don't line up very well. Looking for tips to align them better. Not many folks out there that own these. Would like to stay in touch and exchange thoughts. I see this is an old post, hoping you're still checking in here. Let me know when you see this please.

Re: 36 Coupe new build, J.B.Donaldson body
 

Suggest you click on his user ID and send him a PM.He hasn't checked in since 2018