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Some Questions........ 14 Attachment(s)
1. Do my rear brakes lines look good? Anything you see that might be in the way or isnt acceptable?
2. the front cross-member where my finger is pointing. I was going to drill and tap a hole to hold the front brake line. Will this be a problem or interfere? I figured it would be tucked away down there and woulnt be visible... 3. The holes in the bottom of the lower frame rail in the front, what are these for? Can i use these holes to bolt brake line clamps? 4. The cowl to firewall gasket. Does this get cut off where the ridge ends? Does this sit on the ridge as in the pic? Do i need to glue this in place so it doesnt move? 5. In my firewall grommet kit i have a few pcs that im not sure what they are for? 6. Is there a way to test a brake light switch or do they just last "forever"? |
Re: Some Questions........ Looks goood to me.
I am not an expert on the early stuff yet,,,but it looks like you are doing good work. Tommy |
Re: Some Questions........ Everything looks good to me.
Only question in my mind is, was the frame originally painted any other color than black? |
Re: Some Questions........ 1 Attachment(s)
The holes in the bottom of the frame rail in front are probably for engine splash pans. The left over hose is a drain for the cowl vent. It extends from the trough at the bottom of the cowl vent opening out through the firewall (see photo).
Charlie Stephens |
Re: Some Questions........ Is there a way to test a brake light switch or do they just last "forever"?
Remove switch from fitting and screw into a air pressure regulator fitted with a pressure guage. With a multi meter attached to the two terminals of the switch, increase air pressure until the multi meter shows continunity. Note the pressure required to activate the switch, if it is acceptable, resuse it. Bruce |
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Charlie Stephens |
Re: Some Questions........ ford usually split the rear lines at the wishbone mount on the torque tube, then a line down each radius rod to the wheel cylinders. yours will work, henry's method is just a little more tidy
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Re: Some Questions........ 2 Attachment(s)
The rubber with the cut off goes into the firewall (see picture). The metal plug might be for the dash if the car did not have a dash light switch (what does the other side look like?). The one with the small hole in the center was for the wire to the Model B coil that was mounted inside of the dash (see picture). How about better shots of the one still unidentified rubber plug?
Charlie Stephens |
Re: Some Questions........ I hope the copper colored brake lines are really steel as copper is not correct (and will fail) for brake lines.
Charlie Stephens |
Re: Some Questions........ Me Too?? I've done quite a few re plumbing of the brake lines, and they never looked that good. Want to do my roadster??
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Re: Some Questions........ I had to replace some rusted out brake lines on my "beater" pickup last summer. I had heard about this "NiCop" stuff, and since I had problems double-flaring regular steel lines in the past, decided to use it. It is very easy to work with, bends easily, and all four double flares I did worked the first time; no leaks! Plus, I'll never have to worry about the new lines rusting out. I am completely sold on it and will never use steel lines again. Stainless steel? Forget about it.
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Re: Some Questions........ Nick,
Regarding your question number 4, the cowl to firewall rubber extended down to the ends of the flanges on the firewall. What is shown in your photos is a reproduction that bears little resemblance to the original and you have it backwards in your photos. The raised part is meant to be positioned forward, not rearward. Even positioned correctly I doubt that you will be pleased with it. As for the various firewall grommets and plugs, one of the appendices of the book (A-13) is devoted to that subject. They are all pictured and their specific locations are cited. Charlie, Large fleet customers could (and did) specify non-standard colors, including for chassis components, for their vehicles like Lincolns of the period offered on all their vehicles. While a bit of stretch that a fleet ordered a roadster with a non-black frame, it is a theoretical possibility. Given the nature of this project, it is owner's choice and moot. |
Re: Some Questions........ This is a fun project to watch. Especially seeing a relative "newbie" working on a family project. Kudos to Ian for taking us along for the "ride" and hope it inspires others to tackle a project.
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Re: Some Questions........ Brake lines should always be routed out of harms way as much as possible, and while you did a very neat job with the plumbing, the rear lines in front of the axle are vulnerable to road trash, especially with the softer Nicop, vs. steel. I agree with cas3 about splitting/running them down the inside of the radius rods, then behind the axle and up to the wheel cylinders. :)
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Still, I'd prefer to see the lines moved to a safer area - an area less likely to be strewn with road debris. Of course Charlie, we will both hear from the guys that say "I've been doing it like this for years and it's been fine". Yep, a lot of guys have been doing stupid things for years and they are fine. Rarely do you hear from a guy that admits he was stupid and "it" didn't work fine. |
Re: Some Questions........ Welcome to the 21st century.
"NiCopp is a nickel-copper alloy brake tubing that meets SAE Standard J1047 and ISO 4038; meeting all international and U.S. requirements for brake tubing. This alloy is approximately 9.2% nickel, 1.4% iron, 0.8% manganese, and 88.6% copper. Under the UNS system, this alloy is designated as UNS C70600." |
Re: Some Questions........ Nice work. I am going to use the same type of tubing when i do the brake lines on my 49 Club Coupe.
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