Kwik way lbm
 

Hi guys,
I purchased a kwik way line boring machine awhile ago and want to try doing
some insert bearing installations.
Every thing is pretty straight forward and the machine is complete and I have
a good set of instructions.
My question is what is every one using to cut the thrust surface for the bronze
insert thrust washers.
I have seen one post on using a rotary table to cut the rear main cap, but
wouldn't it be better to machine it on the block?
And what are people using to cut the front side of the rear main block surface
as it is an interrupted cut.
I can't find any posts on this.

Thanks,


Dodge
.

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

Hi Dodge, I also own a Kwik Way LBM machine, but have never converted a block to insert bearings. I'm assuming when you say you have a complete machine, you have the centering gages for the A, V-8, and tractor blocks. Do you have the self feeding facing cutter fixture? This allows you to face either side of the thrust surfaces of a bearing or block. I can supply a pic of the facing unit if you like.

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

Yes I have the centering gauges. I'm not sure what you mean by the self feeding facing
cutter unless its the one that clamps to the bar and has two cutters in it.
A picture would be worth a thousand words. Most people seem to cut the rear of the
block and cap full circle but only cut the block on the front and only use one bronze
thrust washer insert. I was concerned with the interrupted cut and thinking about
adapting a multi cutter face cutter to the bar to do it with.

Thanks,

Dodge

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

Dodge here are pics of the Kwik Way facing tool

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

Thanks

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

To me this facing tool looks to be from the aamco 400, the bar sizes are the same (I have both aamco, and LBM)so both systems parts can interchange some, my LBM came with the aamco universal expanding centering tool for insert blocks that works better than the lbm rings
http://www.fordfarm.net/AMMCO-manual.html

there is a listing for a flanging head in the kwik way, but no mention of use or instructions
http://www.fordfarm.net/Kwik-Way-manual.pdf

here is the aamco tool mounted on the bar-
http://www.fordfarm.net/AMMCO-manual-9.jpg

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

Kurt, Your"e correct. It is from my Ammco 400 also. I guess I placed in the large box my LBM came in for safe keeping. Kwik Way does make a flanging cutter, but I don't think it is self feedind just a large full facing bit. Tough to keep from chattering. My LBM came from an Army base and had all the optional stuff, longer bar, rails, and attachments.

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

Looking to purchase a Kwik-Way LBM. What would be a reasonable price to pay? Located in SoCal...

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

I have never seen a Kwik Way line boring machine but the one my engine rebuilder uses is probably similar. When I converted an engine to inserts, he tried to use that machine to bore the block. He now says "NEVER again!" He found that the machine, while fine cutting soft babbit wasn't up to cutting cast iron, especially as the cut was interrupted by the jon at the cap.
Maybe the Kwik way machine is heavier duty. I mention this because it nay be relevant.
I have taken other engines to a different company and I ma completely satisfied with their work.

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

It' been awhile, but I used a full 360* rear thrust and only did the cap on the front side. I purchased commercial thrust washers, machined them to the OD & ID that I wanted, cut them in half, and pinned them to the cap and block. I also filed a half-round groove 3/4 of the way through to oil the properly, never had a problem with them.

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

I have a 1.5" bar on my line boring machine. Given its diameter, I use it only for boring blocks for insert bearings. Even with the increased diameter, it will chatter when cutting the thrust washer pockets.
I remove the rear cap when boring for the half circle front thrust. The cutter leaving the surface of the cut for half of the rotation and then coming into contact creates a bit of loud "clack" noise but with a slow feed, it works.
Like Jim, full 360 thrust at rear and 1/2 thrust at the front of the rear bearing. I cut the thrust pocket in the block and retain it with an uncut cap.
Good Day!

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

Jim, Dave, et/all; y'all are answering a 5 year old posts! :rolleyes: :eek:


Edgar, to answer your question since this 'derailed' from the beginning, a LBM will sell for anywhere from $2,500 - $6,000 depending on the condition. Items such as a banged-up bar or a bent bar from mis-handling affects the price. Also, rough gears inside the transmission will affect the surface finish of the bearing. A good bar micrometer, un-cracked bar bearings, rails and drive motor also affect pricing. I will also tell you that you will need to have the cutters made for these if you do not have them with the set as Kwik-Way no longer services this tool set.

Additionally, one of the main items that is needed are the fixtures used to locate the bar when being used on a Model-A/B block. Without them, set-up is almost impossible as it affects the crankshaft & timing gear clearance. The fixtures alone are hard to find and can fetch as much as a $1,000.00 for a good set.

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

I now own a Ammco 400 LBM purchased from JB here on FB but now I'm looking to buy some new tool bits. It has a 1.25" diameter boring bar with 5/16" diameter bits? Also, how does one use the facing adapter, shown above, to cut a pocket for the thrust washer?I understand the principle in how it functions but only for straight facing not cutting a pocket as needed for the modern thrust washer purchased from AER in Skokie...

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

I doubt you are going to find any new tooling for your machine. Therefore you will need to make it yourself. Various supply stores such as MSC or McMaster will offer a ⁵⁄₁₆/.3125 HSS blank that you will use to make you own cutters. I think they are about $10 a stick and they are about 5 inches long. You will need to machine a vertical groove/relief with a ¹⁄₃₂ ball end mill for the set screw ball to center to. Then grind and shape the tool for the profile of cutter you desire.

As for the cutter for the thrust, I have never used one of those types, and it appears to be too large to get in there anyway. You likely will need to grind your own cutter for that too. That way it can be adjusted to only cut in the pocketed area. I am not sure what you will use to tension the bar there either. I know the KW has two adjuster feed screws that clamp against the bar and then push against a main webbing to tension the cutter against the main web or cap.

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

I recently sold my Aamco bar for $7,000, but I included 7 Model A blocks and a few other things, a pressure tester, etc.

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

There was recently a Kwik Way LBM on eBay for $1750. It had the Ford fixtures but they were just shown in the pictures, not listed in the description so you need to know what to look for. I nearly bought it for parts but my better sense got ahold of me. In addition to the factory fixtures, I have a set of fixtures for A and T that will align off a false cam to double check everything before cutting. In theory, you could just set it up with the false cam and those fixtures are much easier to make. My fixtures are out on loan, will post pictures if I ever get them back!

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

So you are using an LBM to cut poured bearings in Model-T blocks & caps?

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

I believe the crank main journals are only 1.0 inch or 1 1/4 finished. You have to make yourself a reduced diameter boring bar, which isn't hard if you have a mill. Clamp the bar in to clamp slots and figure your spacing on the boring bar tool bit holes. Turn the work 90 degrees and drill and tap for tool bit clamp setscrews. If you have a surface grinder and a fixture such as a Harig or whats referred to as a coffee grinder you can rough out tool bits for the Ammco or Kwik way bars. A radius dresser can the be used to grind the profiles and back reliefs on the bits.

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

Reducer bushings would have to be fitted in your Bar bearings to accept the reduced boring bar diameter.

Re: Kwik way lbm
 

Using the LBM to do a T was a challenge. A lot of bushings for 1" bar. My LBM came with a lot of bits so found a couple that are short enough to use. I made a fixture to locate off the cam shaft like KR500. For the vertical setting I use the A fixture with bushings. I set the bits with a Kwik Way micrometer that I calibrated to the 1" bar. Works but take a lot of thinking before I do the finish cuts. :rolleyes:

T's aren't much fun since it takes so much to set it up. Everything is small. I've done the mains on over 200 A's and have had fun doing them.

As far as cost of the LBM, I bought mine at an Auction in 2002. It was almost the last thing auctioned in the building. Seems everyone had gone outside. They started at $300 and kept going down because couldn't get a bid. When it got to $50 I bid and bought it. I call that luck but it did find a good home.

I have never used it for main inserts but did use it to machine for cam bearings.