Vintique Fuse Block
 

On a recent tour, my car developed a short in the lighting system. If I had my headlights on and turned the signal on, both the headlights and the turn signal would flash. Also when night driving, when I put the brakes on, the headlights would go very dim. It took me a few hours to track the problem down and it turned out to be a short in the fuse block that I had attached to the top of the starter. This product was make by Vintique Inc. USA.

The small screw that goes through the clip and then into the insulation was too long.
When screwed into the insulation, it had gone through and came into contact with the metal base thus causing a short.

Who would have figured that?

Re: Vintique Fuse Block
 

One word "Vintique" :D

Re: Vintique Fuse Block
 

Many reports are similar to yours. Had one fail once & threw it away.

A metal/glass fuse, metal fuse holding device, with screws, all expose to oil, rain, humidity, & the elements is not at all the best electrical design idea.

Some Model A owners have soldered the screw and/or rivet connections; & some have found a similar but different, much more durable fuse holder mounted on the starter.

Fuses totally encapsulated in fuse holders & not exposed to the weather are far superior & will last almost indefinitely.

Saw some plastic, black ones at Auto-Zone a few days ago -- bought one to place in line with my 6 volt (+) ground metal GPS/cell phone charger.

They are under $5.00, with 12 gauge black wire -- get one & you can drive off into the sunset with a smile.

Re: Vintique Fuse Block
 

First time on Fordbarn, been watching for a while! The information on here is VERY helpful.

Been involved on the high performance side of things decided to slow down.

Yes, I have had issues with 'Vintique' myself on buying parts for our recently acquired Model A Ford. I have learned to avoid that stuff at all possible costs.

Thanks for all who post on here I am learning a LOT Model A's are pretty cool!

Re: Vintique Fuse Block
 

I also have seen a lot of trouble with the foreign (not USA made) starter mounted fuse blocks. I began modifying the American made blocks, but then decided to keep the engine compartment as stock as possible and moved the fude inside the car where it is not easily seen. Also went with the larger style fuses, much easier to see if it is blown.

Re: Vintique Fuse Block
 

P.S.
How did you wire the fuse in and what will it protect?
Sure like your idea of installing the fuse inside and out of site.
Thanks for your time.
Cape Codder

Re: Vintique Fuse Block
 

Cod-

The fuse is wired between the starter connection and the ammeter, exactly the way the starter mounted fuse block is wired into the circuit.

Simply pull as much slack out of the wire to the starter lug as possible, and disconnect the other end from the stud in the junction box. Pull the wire inside the car and connect to an inline fuse holder. Run wire from the other end of the fuse holder to the stud in the junction box where the wire from the starter was previously attached, and you're good to go. It's now hidden, protected from heat and weather, and still protecting everything behind the starter. And, in fact, it is a lot safer.

Re: Vintique Fuse Block
 

When I hear "Vintique", I run the other way. Here's what I did years ago for a fuse & cut-off switch. I got this idea from a man who published it in an old issue of the Model A News. "Inside" I have a small metal bracket with a 90 degree bend and rounded corners with three holes drilled in it. Two for mounting the bracket to the existing terminal box screws & one for the toggle switch that kills everything except the power to the starter only. Car won't run when switch is "off". I am using a modern, 30 Amp "spade" fuse, available virtually "anywhere". I purchased a holder for it that came with an insulated cover, (the black thing hanging there in photo). I cut the big yellow wire that comes up from the starter to the terminal box, you can pull it in for some slack to do this work after removing it from it's terminal. I ran one end to the switch, then from switch-to-fuse and then fuse-to terminal box where she originated from. I know my wiring isn't the neatest in the world, you could do better.It is important that the wiring you do is positively secure and insulated from things. The orange wire you see is an old, but well working electric wiper motor install. The newer green wire is my doing, it goes to my old "Cat's Eye" fog lamp. Also shown is the bracket I made & the switch I put in for it with a separate fuse. (the older glass style). I was able to incorporate the cowl lamp arm bracket hole in my pickup for the switch, since trucks like mine did not have cowl lights but Ford used the same deluxe cowl "arms" inside the cowl for the trucks, so the hole was already there.

Re: Vintique Fuse Block
 

I think The Ford Works in Portland in making a fuse block that mounts inside and out of sight. Call Tom at 503-282-2212, or 503-284-1928, or cell: 503-410-1091.

Re: Vintique Fuse Block
 

P.S. - Thanks for the response and explanation.

Re: Vintique Fuse Block
 

I use a 30-amp breaker mounted on engine side of starter switch.It is a tin box with 2 threaded studs for wires & a flat 2- hole mount for the starter switch mounting screws.The mounting hole on one end had to be notched for the slightly wider spacing of the switch mount screws.Most people try to avoid "Vintique" products.

Re: Vintique Fuse Block
 

I use a 30 amp G.M. spade type circuit breaker at the starter, a 20 amp breaker for the lights & a 15 amp breaker for the horn.
If a short develops in the lights or horn, their breakers would trip without tripping the main 30 amp one, thus averting runaway voltage in the charging system!! Bill W.