Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

Removal of the distributor also necessitates the removal of Head Nut 8 that secures the armored ignition cable clamp. A consequence of loosening / removing Nut 8 is coolant leakage into Cylinders 3 & 4. Make this simple modification to the cable clamp, and the risk of leakage goes away.
> Drain one gallon of coolant;
> Remove Head Nut 8 to release the cable clamp;
> Reinstall the head nut and torque to 55 ft-lbs for a stock head and 65 ft-lbs for a hi-compression head. The stud should protrude out of the nut enough to hold the clamp plus a jam nut;
> Replenish the coolant;

> Remove the clamp from the cable and cut the round end of the clamp as shown. Prime & paint the cut edge so it doesn't rust;
> Buy a 7/16-20 Jam Nut that is much thinner than a stock nut;
> Clamp the ignition cable using the modified clamp and the jam nut. Hence forth, only remove the jam nut to takeout the distributor.

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

Alternately, just throw the clip away, nowadays it's not really needed anyways.

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

Katy , that would make a purist sweat (lol)

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

Thats a good idea and it looks nice.

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

Taking that clamp off completely looks even better.

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

I tried that, but the distributor advance rod kept dragging on the armored ignition cable.

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

I did that too, the same as what Bob recommends. Works and looks good.

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

If you take the clamp off, replace it with a spacer the same thickness or replace the extra long stud with a shorter one, otherwise you can bottom out on the threads and not have that head bolt tight and you will blow a head gasket in that area.

Tom Endy

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

I kind'a did the opposite of what Bob Bidonde did and didn't have to remove the clamp either. I cut a portion off the top of the clamp just enough so the ignition cable kind'a, sort'a "clips" into the clamp.;)


Bob-A:D

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

Where would I look for a jam nut like this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0169548

1330 Courtland Road NE
Roanoke, VA

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

OK I am puzzled on this. I cannot even begin to tell you how many times over the years we have removed the distributor by draining the coolant, removing the stud nut and the clamp, and then removing the distributor and cable. Then upon re-assembly, I retightened (torqued) that nut and refilled with coolant. I/we have not had any issues doing it the correct way, and this task is done so infrequently.

So it begs the question for me, why does this clamp modification need to be done? Maybe a better way of asking this is, why would the cable or distributor need to be removed outside of a garage environment when a drain catch bucket is normally available??

.

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

Hi Brent,
The clamp mod is beneficial as a roadside fix to those who opt to install a spare distributor rather than to replace the points, the condenser or fiddle with a broken wire. Replacing the distributor is a common practice because it is faster and easier. I really think you know this.

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

I completed the modification as per Bob-A. No need to disturb the integrity of the head gasket seal. Thanks Bob.

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

Yeah, I guess I can change the points faster with the distributor still mounted into the cylinder head. The same with the condenser unless someone has installed a non-original heater manifold that blocks access. Even then, use one of the A&L burn-proof condenser and you won't have a problem. Adding to that, even most burned point contacts can be dressed with a file and re-gapped quicker than most hobbyists can find where they have their spare distributer stored in the car. :D

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

There have been several times during a tour that I was able to get a stalled car back on the road by installing my spare distributor and bypass cable. The bypass cable connects direct from the coil to the distributor.

When a car pulls to the side of the road with loss of ignition the fault can be a number of things, the wire going to the ignition switch from the coil, the ignition switch, the pop-out cable. The lower plate in the distributor, the wire connecting the upper plate and the lower plate, the points, the condenser.

It is much simpler to just replace the distributor and bypass the rest of the ignition to get the car running again.

I also witnessed a roadside distributor replacement where when the #8 head bolt nut was removed it dumped water into the pan.

I advocate removing the clamp and installing a standard length stud in the #8 position.

Tom Endy

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

do you guys think the car came with the clamp installed to delay/deter theft? surely a thief had to disable the distributor from the cable to (somehow) start the car to steal it.

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

I believe it was part of Henry's ant-theft design. You would have to remove the head bolt nut holding the clamp before you could remove the distributor to install a bypass cable to hot wire it. Another part of the design is that when the ignition key is switch to the off position a ground is applied to the points further restricting hot wiring. The armored pop-out cable prevents easy access to the wires also restricting hot wiring.

Tom Endy

Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp
 

Thanks! I plan to stop by there today. Draining the radiator is a messy pain.