T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

Hey guys,

I recently moved to San Diego, due to work and I'll be here a few years. I plan on shipping out my 30 phaeton. It has a B block and a stock A trans. I have zero welding ability but I am decent at assembling and disassembling things. I plan on running the banger but want a t5 behind it to give me a little bit extra drivability (potentially even take the car on the highway).

I saw a kit from valley machine shop in bakersfield.
https://valleymachineshop.com/model-a-parts.html

with some of the directions below
https://www.lainefamily.com/ModelAFi...rsionParts.pdf

It looks like a nice kit, and I'd rather spend a little money and get a kit I can more or less bolt into my A, seeing as my welding and machining skills are nonexistent.

Does anyone have any experience with it? I'd like to know how you like it since you completed the conversion?

I read a review from one member on their manual speedometer cable for the t5 and it was positive, and have seen their kit mentioned on here, but no reviews on it are on here or the HAMB.

Anyway, if anyone knows anything I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks!
Gordy

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

I haven't seen a kit yet that relocates the rear wishbone's front mount so that the rear yoke and transmission output shaft are on the same plane, nor have I seen one that includes a bolt-on solution to solve the requirement of a third-link to control the rear axle wrap that was controlled by the torque tube.

Here's my installation using Vintage Metalworks' kit...

https://clampdowncomp.com/tech/insta...-model-a-ford/

Take note, lots of fabrication to get things right and no bolt on options. All the other kits are the same or worse. FYI.

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

You ought to consider a Mitchell overdrive. I installed mine this spring by myself, except for getting a neighbor to help push the u-joint onto the trans output shaft. It truly was a bolt-in.

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

Put a "39" ford transmission in before the Mitchell and get modern synchronized shifting with better gear ratios than the A...no cutting,keep the torque tube,one kit does it all.

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

The T-5 works really well in the Model A. I have one in my Vicky, it also has an OHV conversion and hydraulic brakes. If you are going to much freeway driving, brake improvements are definitely needed. I can easily cruise at 65 mph. T-5's come in a variety of gear ratios, and OD ratios, choose carefully, and have fun! Welding the seam on the radius rods may be OK for average driving, but more is needed if you do any racing.

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

The Valley Machine unit also requires cutting the crossmember.

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

I used his open rear kit with the speedometer adapter on it, very nice, good guy to deal with. He installed the pinion for me. For the t5 adapter I used a kit from vintage metalworks in Ohio his name is Dave again nice guy to deal with it come with the aluminum adapter, clutch disc etc. Very easy to install and I used the s10 t5 and AA bellhousing. I am very glad I did it and would do it again... Jim

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

Got any pictures of your set up ? would love to see them , I'm doing the same thing

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

I am not good with pictures etc. I will try to get someone to help. both of their websites show the parts. Valley machine sells all the other parts, reworked brake parts, radias rod mounting, trans mount, brake/clutch pedal support even the open drive shaft. Vintage metal works only sells the trans adapter, clutch etc. I made all my other parts. I am happy with both companies. JIm

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

https://clampdowncomp.com/tech/insta...-model-a-ford/

this is the best I have found , if the pics are a hassle don't worry about it , just fun to see other peoples projects

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

Just curious what is the all done price of this conversion not including any labor, using the supplied parts?

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

https://vintagemetalworks.blogspot.c...-adapters.html
here's the kit , hard to say total price , there is definitely some fab. work needed

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

keep the torque tube with a T5 out of a 4x4 Blazer

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

Who makes these parts?

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

PotvinV8 ; do you have any other pictures of the additional /modified Tremec shifter assembly that moves the 2nd shifter forward to the original position? I have seen pictures of this or similar modified shifters in other posts, but none of them explained how it was done. Can you help out on this one? Thanks

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

Crazydaddyo makes adapter for 4x4 T-5 from S10 Blazer , which keeps the torque tube

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

I think, due to Valley Machining being 2 hour away from me in San Diego and Vintage Metalworks being in Ohio, due to distance I would go with Valley Machining just in case I really get hung up on something.

I was thinking that the only fabricating I'd have to do is the cutting of the cross member, but in the link I posted it says something about "radius rod stitch welding." I'm a bit of an amateur and I'm not sure I understand what is required for "radius rod stitch welding." Other than those two things is there any real fabricating/cutting/welding I'd need to do, or have done, to complete the conversion??

Also decide whether I want open drive or closed drive. I'm not a purist and I'm not partial to keeping the torque tube, I'd like to do whatever is cheaper/safer for more daily driving. I plan on putting hydraulic brakes on it soon after completing the t5 swap for highway driving.

I really appreciate all the help and input you guys have been coming back with.

Gordy

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

The radius rods are not a solid tube, they have an open seam at the bottom, full length. Welding the seam does strengthen them a little, may be OK for normal touring, but under any severe use they will flex and likely break.

Re: T5 Valley Machining Kit
 

Hey Gordy,
"keeping torque tube'....or not.
If conversion done right without keeping torque tube, if time comes when you have to 'PULL' things to fix/replace, removing U-joint makes lot easier than having to remove entire rear end with torque tube.