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Need help as usual... So wired up and timed engine. Made a wooden temporary dash to mount everything since body is off. Made a test gas tank for fuel delivery. 1st I did a compression test. (remember this is first time this motor has turned in 60+ years) I get 50 psi on each cylinder. I assume that's passable? Since I don't have a radiator on yet I noticed a little oil in the water inlet tube which concerns me. So I am ready to get a bunch of smack but I know you can run the engine for a very short time without the radiator attached. I turn on gas and brand new Tillotson X carb starts dripping. I bumped it to see if float stuck but nothing. Still leaks. So I push up spark leaver, choke out, CW all the way with a 1/4 turn back. I hit the starter and she backfires but never starts. You guys have gotten me this far. Hopefully nothing major. New copper head gasket stepped 35, 45, 55 torque.
On a side note I looked through some more boxes the old guy I got the car from and there is a pair of fog lamps I will never use and they are original if someone wants to buy them. |
Re: Need help as usual... Sixty(60) years idle with no engine rotation is a good recipe for valves sticking in the open position when the starter rotates the engine.
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Re: Need help as usual... Tighten the 1/2 inch bolt/plug on the bottom of the carb. Hope you find it loose. Don't Tighten too much.
Now is the time to understand the ignition system. Get the book out and study the circuit. When you get it right, it will start. We all can help. |
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Re: Need help as usual... As parochial as this may appear, this is just a simple, 100% timing verification check for possibly new, and/or possibly doubtful Model A owners who assumed that they have just timed their Model A's correctly according to the many different written, Model A timing directions and techniques.
1. Remove all (4) plugs & lay all (4) plugs on sides, (grounded), while all (4) plugs are still electrically connected to the distributor. 2. Turn ignition switch "ON". 3. Retard spark lever on left of steering wheel all the way upwards. 4. Remove timing pin, reverse timing pin, and insert non-threaded part of timing pin in threaded timing pin hole where the timing pin was initially removed. 5. Apply slight pressure on timing pin, slowly hand crank engine until timing pin slips "IN", and, 6. If timed correctly, at the instant the timing pin slips "In", one should see a spark jump across the gap of the number one (1) spark plug nearest the radiator. 7. If so desired, for a further ignition check, continue turning crank to verify that all (4) plugs are firing order of 1, 2, 4, 3. Hope this helps. |
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When the timing pin drops into the cam gear dimple, then the rotor tip should be in this exact location, pointed toward the right headlamp. Points gap at .020", and the ignition is done.
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Re: Need help as usual... Thanks, Tom! You already helped me! By doing a search I was able to find this from one of your older posts (replies).
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Re: Need help as usual... What are those two screws on the rotor, Tom?
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Re: Need help as usual... Since Tom is the master of gadgets and such, he is prolly the guy who invented the spin balance machine for tires in the first place when he worked at the dealership. He did mention that they only had the bubble balancer at the GM shop he was at.....at lunch one day he must have snuck off and hooked an old front hub to a washing machine motor and the spin up machine was born!!!:):):D:D:p
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It's the same reason I like to see counterweights on Model A crankshafts.:) |
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