Gland rings
 

Are they worth the trouble ?

Re: Gland rings
 

Yes. If you have trouble getting them all installed, the #1 and #4 are the most important because of the bolting holding the exhaust manifold. Be sure to use the copper shroaded gaskets and make sure the manifold is flat across the flanges. Of course, make sure the flanges are clean
Paul Shinn has a nice video on YOUTUBE about replacing the manifold gasket

Re: Gland rings
 

If you can't bolt up the ex. manifold with the gland rings it is usually the rear of the manifold that has sagged and must be replaced for correct alignment.

Re: Gland rings
 

No.

Re: Gland rings
 

Save time and see this previous thread, in which no one can agree on the answer, which is exactly what you'll get here too.

Re: Gland rings
 

Coming from the Model T world I would say yes. But Model A's have a more substantial exhaust manifold so I really don't know. It is interesting that the later manifolds were cast with a larger section near the rear. Did Ford know something?

Cast iron will grow when heated. You can see this in old cast iron cook stoves that have been abandoned because the parts no long fit. The rings in a Model T keep the exhaust manifold in alignment. Without them they warp.

Re: Gland rings
 

I've read somewhere that the repop gland rings sold by the vendors. Are not constructed like the originals. Does anybody know where you can get correct
exhaust gland rings?


Bob-A:D

Re: Gland rings
 

They can be cut from steel pipe.

Re: Gland rings
 

What trouble??. I made some for my car. Might take an extra 5 minutes to install the exhaust manifold but once it's done it's done. I don't understand why anyone would NOT use them even if they don't do anything. What is the downside???.

Re: Gland rings
 

Definitely yes,

Not only do they help keep the exhaust manifold in alignment, they also help with the life of the manifold gaskets.

I have them in all my engines.

My opinion,

Chris W.

Re: Gland rings
 

I can't remember what size it is but there is an exhaust pipe just the right size to make these rings from. We are metric so it may not be available to you guys. I put a length in the lathe and part off a few at a time. Obviously, these rings are one piece, unlike the repop ones you buy these days.

Re: Gland rings
 

We have equivalent here. most of the model a isn't metric anyway, it will never know.

Re: Gland rings
 

Bob, this is kind of a two-edged sword. Most original manifolds have been re-surfaced where some, -if not most of the recess is missing. At that point, trying to use gland rings is moot. For the home machinist with a mill, the counterbore is re-added with a boring bar.

As far as the rings, most of us just machine them on our lathes out of 1.500 seamless tubing material and go with those. I would need to look at the print again but my (failing) memory says the counterbore size of the block and manifolds is like 1.490".


One other thing, ...a sagging or drooping manifold can be be repaired. You need a fixture to be able to clamp the manifold to. I used an old engine block laid on its side. Use the glands to determine the correct location. Make a plate that bolts to the valve cover area that has a ½"-20 threaded rod on a stand that will push on the boss area of the exhaust pipe clamp. Use a rosebud torch to slowly bring the temperature of the exhaust manifold up to a glowing red in the area of the #4 exhaust port. Slowly start turning the threaded rod adding pressure to the end of the manifold. (Slowly is defined as like ¼ turn or less every 10 minutes so which is about 0.010 of an inch.) The heated cast metal will soften and slowly begin to move due to the pressure from the rod, and when it reaches the correct location you throw a welding blanket over it and allow it to cool slowly. Takes about an hour to do one, and is a great way to save an original non-pitted manifold.

Re: Gland rings
 

In their instructions for their manifolds, Bratton's says to check the counterbore on the manifold and the block. You want to make sure the combined depth is sufficient for the gland rings to fit without creating a gap between the two pieces. Not only will it cause leaks, but the manifold ears may break when torqued down.

Now, they recommend filing down the gland rings to fit – I assume because most of their customers don't have a mill. Not sure what the effect of that is compared to deepening the manifold counterbore as Brent suggests.

Re: Gland rings
 

When measuring, don't forget to account for the compressed gasket thickness that will be between the manifolds and the block.

Unless someone has flycut and faced the side of the block, that counterbore is generally never affected. If there is minor pitting on the surface, use the JB Weld ExtremeHeat 'Metallic Repair Paste' to level the surface. The process for deepening the counterbore is a little more involved. Sweep the perimeter to find zero in the X & Y axis. Then set-up a boring bar to plunge deeper. For those who do not own a mill, then purchasing a new exhaust & intake manifold is probably the next best option.

Re: Gland rings
 

When you heat and straighten the droop in the rear exhaust port, is there a problem with the manifold stretching and that port being slightly too far to the rear of block?

Re: Gland rings
 

Great answers....Thanks to all

Re: Gland rings
 

I have only done a couple of them as the job is too labor intensive to be a $$ value. The ones I did seemed to realign with the port fairly easily.

Re: Gland rings
 

Would this product work OK to fill cavities in the block surface that seal to the head gasket? I have a couple of divots on mine between stud 13 and the edge of the block. I think somebody was trying to get a gasket off with a screwdriver a few decades ago. Trying to avoid decking the block (I guess actually trying to avoid everything you have to do beforehand in order to deck the block).

Edit: The repair I was contemplating before this was to fill the divots with Seal-Lock Fluid Weld. The Fluid Weld might still be preferable because I wouldn't have to sand it precisely flush.

Re: Gland rings
 

Thanks for the reply, I may give it a try on one of my many drooped manifolds.