Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

I’m having trouble getting all my brake line connections on my 1956 T-bird to not leak and have a couple of questions about the copper washers.

I find two different parts from the various T-bird parts suppliers:

1. Part # 2154 and called Master Cylinder Gasket. The exploded illustration shows 2 of these used on the master cylinder brass fitting with the banjo bolt, that connects to the hard line to the power booster fitting. It shows one of these on the brass fitting on the side of the booster where the hard line from the master cylinder attaches. And last, it shows 2 of these on the brass fitting with the banjo bolt on the top of the booster where the flexible hose to the frame block attaches.

2. Part # 2149 and called Brake Hose Gasket. I couldn’t find where this part is used. Is this used on the rubber brake lines to the front wheel cylinders and rear axle?

3. Can I use a Dorman copper washer from the local parts stor if they fit snuggly?

4. The old washers have concentric rings on the flat part of the washer. Are these necessary or will the Dorman washers which are flat work? I read that new washers needed to be annealed first, is that true?

I have been fighting leaks for too long trying to bleed the brakes. I have a new master cylinder and rebuilt power booster as well as new lines.

Thanks

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

I've used auto parts store copper washers many times with no problem. If you have leaks in an inverted flare fittings, loosen them and tighten then a few times to make them seat.

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

Yes, you can use the gaskets from DORMAN and/or a parts jobber. The serrations are as a result of the washer being crushed when torqued, Anytime you take a banjo-fitting apart, you automatically replace the washer(s).

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

As mentioned just take the banjo bolt with you and even the fitting itself to the auto parts store. Napa can be a good place if you have one. There are several size washers and they can vary just slightly from each other. Many banjo bolts have just a slight shoulder near the head of the bolt. Make sure copper washer fit snugly over that little shoulder.

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

Well I was able to find some Dorman washers that fit snugly over the shoulder. These had a larger O.D. than the original and were a little thicker. For anyone interested, the part number is 097-829CD, and are described as M12 • 1/2” (1.3 cm) S.O.

That said, I still have leaks. I inspected the body of the new master cylinder and it was smooth and looked good. I’m not too sure about the brass fitting so will order one of those. The top of the body of the power booster looked pitted and suspect (see picture). Should that have been cleaned up by the rebuilder? I will also check the booster body where the brass fitting for the hardline to the M/C connects to see if it has a similar problem. I will order a new fitting for there as well.

Is there anything else I can do to eliminate these leaks? It’s the last thing I need to actually drive this thing on the street so I can take it to align the front suspension.

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

I had a leak from a master cylinder that was giving me trouble. It turned out to be an unseen crack in the brass fitting that bolted to the front of the master cylinder. It could only be seen with a jeweler's loupe. But when applying pressure, it leaked. You may need to replace the brass fittings also.

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

That thick copper may not be your friend. I would check with a place that makes hoses or go to another major auto parts. You want a washer thin enough that it can crush and seal. Too thick and it is more like a washer then a sealer. You want a copper that is thin and soft enough to form a seal around those small circles you see in your picture. Those rings are there to make the copper seal. I just dealt with this myself last week on my 34. Napa man came out with a container with about 40 coppers and I picked the one to do the job. If you suspect a crack in the brass fitting you may try spraying soapy water on the fitting and blow compressed air from inside if possible to find a crack.

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

Looking at the photo, that may be a specialty washer. Is the original brass?

My computer is in ICU but once back will get into the MPC to see if it is unique in some way. These aftermarket specialty catalogs are a mess in trying to find an item.

10-4 on NAPA. Some stores have a complete selection of hardware.

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

Annealed copper is soft enough to crush. I would want the OEM type washer. The copper washer can be annealed by heating it to red hot and quenching it with water but the marks formed when crushed could be problematic when reusing washers.

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

Have you inspected the flares, the fittings, and where they seat?

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

OK, the application does take a special washer (both MC and BOOSTER).

The first ATT shows the one most commonly used and the second ATT shows the specialty washer. I believe the BIRD CATALOGS have it listed as 2154.

So anything else will not work.

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

This may of help.
Brake or Clutch System, copper, .51 inch I.D. x .70 inch O.D., .32 inch thick
# F-2154-2
This washer should not be too hard to locate as it fits Ford trucks thru 69.
These dimensions will get you where you belong.
Manufacturer Reference #' 21053

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

OK, I’ve ordered all new brass fittings for the master cylinder and power booster. One question: When I screw the elbow into the fitting on the top of the booster for the flexible hose to attach, am I supposed to use any kind of thread sealer? Or does it seal directly to the brass fitting?

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

No thread sealer on banjo bolt/crush washer or threaded line fittings.

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

I understand about the banjo bolt, I’m talking about the elbow that screws into the fitting held in place by the banjo bolt. See picture.

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

The line you are showing going into the brass fitting ...

Does it have a tubing flare as shown in the below ATTACHMENT?

... or ... As I seem to be having a little trouble with my reading comprehension today ...

Are you describing the ninety-degree fitting going into the banjo fitting?

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

Yes, the elbow threads into the brass block (that the banjo bolt holds in), and the flexible hose threads into the elbow.

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

OK, the elbow has NPT Threads (pipe) attaching it to the banjo block and the line tubing flare and fitting seats against a matching flare in the elbow fitting.

Does that make sense? You don't want to use sealers on brake fittings as if it enters the system it can cause bad things to happen.

Check the tubing flares and fitting seats for integrity.

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

OH!

That ninety-degree fitting used to require a special socket (Weatherhead) to torque it down without compressing/damaging the internal tubing flares. If you are using on open end wrench, try to insert an old line fitting into the threads while tightening.

Re: Copper washers for master cylinder and power booster fittings
 

Thanks. I wish I could remember where I saw a photo of the elbow that looked like some sealer oozed out around where it was threaded on the block. I didn’t think that should be needed. Once I get the new parts, I’ll try again to button everything up and hope I get all the leaks fixed. Thanks for the tip when torquing the elbow.