which booster to buy?
 

So here are two links to boosters for the 53. Western Chassis on their power brake booster kit looks like the exact same kit on eBay with a big difference in shipping fees. The problem I have with the eBay booster is that it says it won't work on my 53 Merc in the details, when you enter the info, but it looks just like the one linked here.

I'm waiting to hear back from the eBay seller on why it says it won't work, but honestly I think it would and it would save my some money shipping wise. $12 for eBay and $57 for Western.

Is there some serious differences in these two I'm missing? And if there is, can that be worked out? The car is getting a complete overhaul on the engine so there will be plenty of vacuum to run the booster. The guy doing the engine said it would be easier to install this brake kit when the engine is out.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/15378984543...53.m1438.l2649

https://westernchassis.com/1952-56-M...ke-Conversion/

Re: which booster to buy?
 

eBay said theirs will work........ordered it. I'll feel a lot better with a duel master cylinder set up.

Re: which booster to buy?
 

You MUST simulate a failure on one side and TEST to see if your pedal has enough stroke. When one side of your system has a failure, the remaining GOOD side of the system has to make a LONGER stroke than normal to produce pressure in the GOOD half of the system. You can visualize how that works by following the diagram below. DD


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...6&d=1444500407

Re: which booster to buy?
 

I'll agree with Mr. Coopman here. I had an experience with my "beater" '99 F150, that, of course, has a factory dual circuit system. I lost a rear brake line (rust) and had what I would consider barely adequate front brakes to get me home. I replaced the rear brake lines, and all was fine. A couple of years later, I lost a front line and had virtually NO brakes. Luckily, I was close to my shop and was able to sneak back. Replacing the front lines brought everything back to normal.

What I am saying that even a factory system is no panacea to brake problems. Unless you're careful with the master cylinder (bore size and stroke), the wheel cylinder sizes, proportioning valves, and even the line size, just installing a dual cylinder may not automatically solve all of the problems. The entire system has to be designed to work together.

I have come to the conclusion that a well maintained single system may just be the best answer for these old cars.

Re: which booster to buy?
 

My daily driver still has all the paper work from new and some times I end up reading through it while waiting for other half. There is a braking distance chart, operating service brakes from 60mph distance, then partial braking system and it was surprisingly longer. Then the distance with parking brake only, you would be better off just bailing out.

Re: which booster to buy?
 

The guy installing the new booster and MC is super qualified and I have no doubt, he'll do what ever it takes to make sure I have a duel failsafe brake system when all is said and done. He is by far, one of the best old school mechanics in this part of the state. He mentioned some new lines will have to be installed to accommodate power brakes and a duel MC. Like I've said, investing thousands of $$$$$ in our cars, stopping is #1 in assuring you not only save your investment, but possibly your life... when driving down some steep hill. Bailing out is not an option I want to be confronted with. :)

Re: which booster to buy?
 

The ford PU Master cylinder for th 78/74 non power disk/drum brake system is what I use. Unfortunately, you still have to lean on it to lock em up.