Electrical Issue advice
 

When I attach the battery cable to the battery, there is a "strong" arc/pop when you attach the cable........Obviously NO lights are on, NO horn in blowing, No siren is blaring.........SO any suggestions on where or what to check first to find the "Current draw" ????? My inclination is to start with the on/off switch???

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

I would start with the generator, cuz it’s a likely suspect and easy to isolate, easy to get to.
The ignition switch Is not likely. When a switch goes bad it develops resistance but doesn’t normally short to ground. And that’s what you have, something is allowing current flow to ground when it shouldn’t

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

AS well ,Remove the low tension wires of the solenoid /starter switch then in turn re attache them to see were the current draw is ,Dash or engine side lights ,stop light .pull the fuse on the lights or the wire,

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

Use a test light and do a parasitic draw test and unhook wires till the light goes out.. I'd start with the generator cut out.

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

Like 35 fordtn said but i used a seatbelt buzzer so i could hear it when twisted under or in the dash . Even on six volts they usually work just a little less obnoxious.

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

SO, my assumption IS (by starting at the Generator/Cut Out) that by probing all the contacts (with ignition switch off) is that all should be "dead"??? My idea of starting at the switch I later realized is "fruitless" as HAD it been on "constant" my coil and points would have burned!!! SO....

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

My 32 Ford Had a cut out when the points stuck It melted out the Amp Meter before I could disconnect the battery. I wil NEVER use a cut out (original) style again! I now use the FUN SPOT voltage Regulator type and it works great. Easy change and set up. kerk

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

Rockfla,
Do a parasitic draw test.... Unhook the ground cable and use a 6V bulb or a test light between the battery ground post and the battery ground strap. If there is a draw it will dimly light up (usually no very bright). I know most would say it cant possibly light up if connected between a ground strap and a battery ground post, but I PROMISE if there is a draw it will light up and the higher the draw the brighter it will be Leave it hooked up and start disconnecting things until it goes out.

My bet is on the Cut Out if it has not had a diode installed. My second guess would be the ignition switch.

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

Thanks for the directions Mike, I sorta figured the ignition switch to "possibly" be in play but will check as you directed!!!

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

On old Fords a lot of the circuits are hot all the time. The ignition circuit should only to hot to the ignition switch. The generator circuit is hot to the cutout. That is what the cut out is doing, breaking the connection between the battery and the generator. The lighting circuit is hot all the time to the lighting control switch and brakes are hot all the time. What year are you working on?

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

1932!

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

fockfla do you have the wiring diagram? As you can see, it is hot to the dome light switch, ignition switch, the cutout on the generator, the input to the lighting control (which connects to the horn & brake lights), and to the ignition switch. The problem should be in one of these circuits and most likely the cutout. You can disconnect each connection one at a time and see which one stops the arcing (as already suggest by others, the connection to the cutout would be the place to start).

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

On an ORIGINAL 1932 FORD the ignition switch only supplies power to the ignition coil when it is ON. It does not supply power to anything else so is very unlikely to be a problem. As others have said the round cutout on top of the generator is a big possibility so disconnect the front wire nearest the radiator from the cut out and see if your current draw has gone. Another possibility is the ammeter terminals might be shorted to ground inside the meter. So disconnect those items and report back. Regards, Kevin.

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

rockfla, Were you able to find the problem current draw on your 32 Ford electrics. Feed back is always appreciated. Regards, Kevin.

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

Kaotes, JSEERY & 35Tn


It's been SO damn hot here that this past weekend, after doing yard work for almost 3 hours on Saturday, I was "DONE". Sunday I just plain drug up sorry!!! Our temps here have been "What the temps feel like" in the 100+ everyday!!! Today its supposed to be 106. SO my plan is to get up early tomorrow and do the do!!!! I hopefully will have an answer this weekend. Thanks a million for all the advice!!!

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

rockfla, just another tip regarding the round ford cut out. There are two terminal screws and black insulators on the cutout. Pay very close attention how the insulators are fitted on the cutout cover. Each insulator is round in section with a square portion and is also curved (concave) which fits into a square hole on the metal cut out cover and this has to be fitted in exactly otherwise the terminal screw or bolt will short out to ground on the cover. Reproductions of these special insulators are available. This could also be your problem and the cut out itself is OK. Regards, Kevin.

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

Koates
Thanks, Its the second Item on my punch list tomorrow!!!! I'll keep you posted!!

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

Good point!

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

Rockfla, use a test light or buzzer between the ground post and ground to do your testing. Sparks around a battery can cause an explosion of the battery.


If it is not the cutout, check the stop lights.

Re: Electrical Issue advice
 

Okay, so I took the lead off the cutout and still had the arcing, SO got to poking around and two things, one.....the switch for the interior light looks like a suspect point as well as number two.....at the time of pick up I was made aware (and I forgot about it) that the wire for the siren wasn’t hooked up SO possibly “The” issue, I gotta chase that wire!!!!! In the mean time, I got it running and let dad take it for a spin, little did I know he was thinking trip and he ran it out of gas so I had to go fetch him and the car home BUT on the drive he reported the ammeter was “pegged”??? So thinking I need to pull the cutout??? Am going to wire in a go/no go light and start with the interior light switch, then the siren, then the horn, then the brake light switch!!!! Any thoughts/advice still welcome and appreciated