Headlight Help
 

I am trying to improve headlight performance. Need some advice. I have been using standard two filament 32 CP bulbs.

1. One of my lenses might be original or at least older than the other. One shows clear white. The other has a slight yellow tint. Just curious on this one. Common problem?
2. My reflectors are pretty hazy. I have polished them, but that has not changed much. Before I spend the money, will new reflectors make a significant improvement?
3. I purchased LED bulbs. 300k I do not see much improvement over the 32CP. LED bulbs are not expensive. I am going to try 600k. I know they will be "whiter" but not all that much brighter.
4. What is your experience with halogen?
5. What is your experience with sealed beam?

Thanks.

Re: Headlight Help
 

OK. So now you know I do not see very well. It is 6000K and 3000K

Re: Headlight Help
 

Don't blind oncoming traffic! Maybe choose your modern car at night. Bratton's has a reflector that mimics the factory ones with a modern permanent reflective surface that gives the best light for the proper bulbs used. I use 32-50 CP bulbs sold by the dealers. Focus and aiming is the most important aspect of good lighting, A relay setup might go a ways to lighting the road also.

Re: Headlight Help
 

X2,

I have exactly what J Franklin recommends except my original reflectors have been re-silvered. Brattons excellent new reflectors were not yet available. Very good headlights.

I have tried LED's but overall they are not as good as the 32/50 cp bulbs. Lots of light but it does not seem to focus nearly as well. I have heard others complain about the same thing.

I would NOT recommend Quartz/Halogen. These require lots of amps and run really hot causing problems with connections.

Good reflectors and 32/50 bulbs properly focused and aimed is the way to go in my opinion.

Chris W.

Re: Headlight Help
 

I had a similar experience with the LED's, they don't seem to focus very well. On the checklist is, focus, correct sockets for the year of the headlight, good electrical connections, and reflectors in good condition.
My first problem was that a previous owner had replaced the sockets with the wrong year parts so I could never get the bulb adjusted to the correct location in the reflector shape.

Re: Headlight Help
 

I have tried them all. Came to me with 6-v 32cp bulbs. Changed to 12-v 50cp, then to Halogens. A couple years ago (before the LogoLite LEDs came out) I installed JDM Astar LEDs that plugged directly into the Halogen reflectors.

The LEDs I now have are by far the best solution for me. Aimed correctly I have had no complaints from oncoming traffic and have more than adequate lights.

Re: Headlight Help
 

LED element focal length doesn't match the tungsten element so the focus is off. There's actually a ton of math involved in reflective angles.

I used cleaner polish on my lenses to remove yellowing of the glass. It made a huge difference.

I haven't powered mine up yet but I had repro halogen H4 bulbs and reflector kit come with my car.

Re: Headlight Help
 

For good reliable wiring that is very close to stock I use the 32-50 bulbs, brattons reflectors and ditch the factory plugs in favor of spade connectors. I also run a dedicated ground to each headlight bucket. Works great and it's easy to do.


Your yellow lens might be "sun-turned", http://www.glassencyclopedia.com/sunchangedglass.html.

Re: Headlight Help
 

My A had sealed beam (6 volt) conversions in it when bought and they work excellent.

Re: Headlight Help
 

The brightest bulb Ford authorized for model A was 21/32 CP, A-1116. 32 CP stresses the capacity of the generator, and should be used sparingly. Obviously overuse of 50 CP can shorten the life of the generator.

1. Yellowing of lenses is likely due to sun exposure, as previously stated.

2. Haze usually results from silver sulfate, oxidation from air exposure. If it is not removed before polishing, it will be sealed in by any wax content. Salt and vinegar solution removes the tarnish easily. New aluminized reflectors are the best remedy, as they require practically no maintenance.

3. 3000K LEDs mimic the wavelengths produced by incandescent filaments. 6000K are somewhat brighter but I suspect they will make it more difficult to see through fog and snow. They generally can't be focused; however they reduce current draw dramatically.

4. Halogen bulbs require at least as much current as 50 CP bulbs, see above.

5. Sealed beam, like halogen - too much current. As an added bonus, they're ugly.

Re: Headlight Help
 

Interesting thread and something I need to tackle on my car as well. I was considering the LED option and as with many things, there seems to be a split in the opinions in that option. I prefer the look of the incandescent bulbs but night driving is a bear and I don’t like to limit myself.

I’m keying in on GeneBob’s point about mismatched parts. My car has 2-bulb housings with one-bulb reflectors (and cowl lights). I wonder if this could complicate my ability to focus the bulbs ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Re: Headlight Help
 

Please describe what you mean by a relay set up. Thanks.

Re: Headlight Help
 

Headlight relays put the power closer to the bulbs, with less wire resistance. You can look it up on the net.

Re: Headlight Help
 

Two years ago I did Like J.Franklin did. New aluminized reflectors and focusing makes all the difference. I run an alternator.

Re: Headlight Help
 

Here are my results from testing LED headlight bulbs. It might be that the LED bulbs do not focus as well as the stock bulbs but in my tests the LED bulbs definitely light up the street much better. Note that I tested the LED vs halogen bulbs. Standard incandescent bulbs would light up the street even less than the halogen bulbs. Also note that the camera exposure was identical for all pictures.
Bob




http://www.modelahouse.com/images/LED-Halogen01.jpg

Re: Headlight Help
 

Bob: Did you have to install load resistors on the low beams to prevent "flickering"?

Where did you buy the led bulbs?






























w

Re: Headlight Help
 

I purchased them from a company in England. However if I were to buy more I would get them from one of the Model A parts houses. No I did not install load resistors. A word of caution, make sure you have a real good ground. Solid state devices do not like bad grounds.


Bob

Re: Headlight Help
 

I went through the same as what Carl mentioned, except I used Logolite.

Yes, you loose the ability to zero in on a light alignment, but the benefits of the LED out weigh that for me.

The LED produces a nice white light, good visibility, no complaints from oncoming drivers, and uses no current.

Re: Headlight Help
 

I should add that 12V systems reduce current requirements by half, which doubles generator power capacity. The generator can thus handle the load of 50 CP bulbs without overheating.

Of course, a 6V alternator is a much easier conversion.

Re: Headlight Help
 

What makes you say that sealed beams are ugly? They're hidden behind the original lense.

https://www.brattons.com/headlight-seal-beam-set.html