Media Blasting 40 Body
 

Shopping for a safe body blast for my final 40 coupe. My strong favorite blaster just hates the tar like insulation inside the body. I notice that the jobs shown on this site go either way, remove the insulation or scrape it out. Probably some middle ground but not as well pictured. I don't have a rotisserie and no place to stage the job. This body is coming off and I may have to use some grip tech to safely handle it. This is a great body and it is worth the effort or the money. Thanks: Fred A

Re: Media Blasting 40 Body
 

Other than having to do metal work in a specific area, I don't see any reason to remove the factory sprayed on tar sound deaden-er.

Re: Media Blasting 40 Body
 

I just had (Oct) the 1940 Coupe body in my Avatar "dustless blasted" (while on the frame) on the outside sheet metal and had rear pan and Quarter panels replaced we did not touch the inside. The inner metal and underside were replace by prior owner so no need to remove body. Being painted now hope to have back in early 2021

Re: Media Blasting 40 Body
 

I have not had occasion to try this myself. Tar based undercoating, when frozen with dry ice becomes brittle and can be shattered and easily removed. Has anyone tried this process?

Re: Media Blasting 40 Body
 

No need to remove the factory sound deadener. Just do the outside and use spray on bedliner to overcoat the factory insulation.

Re: Media Blasting 40 Body
 

The favorite blaster seems to disagree. They offer to address the tar issue to their satisfaction for a large additional fee. I have been following the favorite's work for some time. Still trying to keep them on the list. The minimum that I can do to my standards is the under body, firewall, and wheel wells. The major coatings on the body are a factory middle green, black, and a well oxidized red on top. I used this car for parts for five years before finding any rust. Stripping the body can always reveal more but the six inch long by fraction hole in the starboard tool tray is all that has been discovered. Ultimately I may work around the insulation and use local remedies. Thanks for the advice: Fred A

Re: Media Blasting 40 Body
 

I just removed the tar in a pair of doors for a 32 2 door with a scraper and a heat gun. Not a easy or pleasant job but doable. Dale.

Re: Media Blasting 40 Body
 

Not just that removing the tar is doable, but by having six forties in a lifetime, the car that is by far the nicest example yet should get some caution when it comes to a factory feature that can't be duplicated. No doubt that the underbody needs to be done, but the record of the original paint and traces of the seam sealers and insulation can't be replaced. I can't do a totally authentic restoration and have my own reasons for the non destructive variations that I choose. Good Luck: Fred A

Re: Media Blasting 40 Body
 

No advice to give on the tar coating but a little to offer on the blasting of your sheet metal: find someone who can soda blast or use the dry ice blast method. If the operator uses the sand blast method on sheet metal it can warp in seconds if he isn’t extremely careful. He’ll be oh so sorry but highly unlikely to pay for the repair or replacement of the damaged body panels.

Re: Media Blasting 40 Body
 

Heat gun and putty knife is cheap and easy. Don't overheat it and it comes off like butter. Yes it is a little messy but not that bad. I just did that on my 55 brand X. Like said before, it probably doesn't need to come off unless you need to do welding in that area. I just recently finished a 46k mile 40 business coupe and left the original stuff there as the body was perfect. Up this way the rain gutters are usually the first parts to have rust problems, then the normal spots.