Vermont Model A Mechanics Looking for someone to help me sort out an electrical problem with my 29 coupe. Hoping there is someone nearby. I am in Essex VT.
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Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics No MAFCA chapters in Vermont but two in New Hampshire. See https://www.mafca.com/chapters/NH.html.
I saw one Model A Restorers Club in Vermont, see https://model-a-ford.org/regions/ My Model T club will do Technical Sessions were the host has an issue and invites club members over to try and find a solution. The host will provide food and drinks. I always enjoy these. |
Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics I have an uncle in Fairlee, but that's a bit far. You might be better off looking for chapters in upstate New York?
Red |
Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics The club in that area was The Green Mountain club, but it is not active now. There are MAFCA members in the greater Burlington area.
If you send me an email at [email protected] and I will give you a few people to contact. |
Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics I am in Rutland and certainly wish the Model A club was active. I am deep into rebuilding my first A, and have learned a tremendous amount from this forum, but I haven't tackled electrical issues yet. I recently found Ray Hedding in Rutland who is into his second A--I think his first was 29 roadster. He is doing great work, and seems to be very knowledgeable (and humble). Give him a call--he is in the phone book. He might be able to help.
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Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics Thanks all for your replies. I have installed a new wiring harness and the fuse mounted on the starter. Fired her up and she started but immediately died, Blown fuse. Tried again with the same result.
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Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics What size fuse? Maybe the generator amperage setting is too high?
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Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics It is a 30 amp fuse. Bought as a kit from Snyders. Designed to keep your model a from " going up in flames." Seems to work.:) Bolts on the starter switch between switch and engine.
I plan to revisit all of my wiring connections (all new wiring) and see if I put sintering amiss. I really need a mechanic with more experience than I have. My lifetime career as a homebuilder and boat builder has not prepared me for this. I never learned about meters and such and at 87 I am running out of time. |
Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics I'm in Montpelier, VT, but far from an expert when it comes to electrical issues. It seems odd it would start and run briefly before blowing the fuse. Are you sure the generator cut out is wired correctly?
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Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics The cutout is new, I used the one with the diode from Snyders. I believe it is wired correctly. Pretty straightforward I think. Kind of a surprise really. Just finished all new wiring and held my breath and stomped on the starter, fired right off and then died. My elation was very brief.
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Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics Had a similar situation a while back. If I remember correctly it turn out that one of the
amp meter wires was making contact with the speedo bezel. Kind of a tight area there. Hope it is just a simple thing as that. I blew several fuses before finding it. |
Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics Baba, Do you have an ohm meter? Turn the engine over so that the points are open or put a piece of cardboard between the points. Take out the fuse and measure the resistance to ground at the fuse clip that goes to the rest of the wiring. It should be infinite which the meter should tell you by an OL signal. If you get anything other than infinite then there is a fault. Something close to zero, say a few ohms or less, would indicate a short.
Turn on the ignition and check again. Wiggle the wires to see of you have an intermittent short. If you find a short then start disconnecting wires one at a time until you find where the short is. Start at the distributor and work towards the fuse block. A common short is were the wire (cable) goes into the distributor, caused by screwing it in too far. |
Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics Is the battery connected positive ground? As it should be.
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Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics By any chance did you step on the brake after the engine started. There are some really bad reproduction brake switches out there that are known to have "shorts" right out of the box (ask me how I know). I would start with checking your lights, including the brake light, and the horn with the key on, but engine not running to see if there are "shorts" in any of those circuits.
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Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics All good advice, thanks. Yes positive ground for sure.I just watched a Paul Shinny's video on the distributor and he mentioned the possibility of a short there. I have a lot to learn. I do not have a multi meter. I guess that will be my next purchase.
I did not step on the brake so guess that was not it. Also when I rewired the car I did not replace the brake switch. Probably not a bad idea. |
Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics Replace with the more expensive American made switch. Otherwise you become very adept at changing out brake light switches. Ernie in Arizona.
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Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics Home Depot or Lowes or any hardware store have inexpensive multi meters that come with instructions. You don't need anything fancy. If you are going to do any electrical work you need a multi meter, just like you need carpentry tools for building houses or boats. The multi meter also comes in handy if you have a problem when out on the road. There are books available on basic electrical theory or you might find a class at the local junior collage. The Model A is very basic and a good car to learn on.
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Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics Here is a good reference for the Model A electrical system: https://www.mafca.com/downloads/Semi...ex%20Janke.pdf
Courtesy Rotorwrench. |
Re: Vermont Model A Mechanics nkamanir, thanks, that is a great link. Lots of good information.
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