Correct gauge wire What gauge wire is run thru the stock ammeter on 38' ford stock 6v system?
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Re: Correct gauge wire Thanks guys.
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Re: Correct gauge wire Just a note Fuse size is to protect the wire size.
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......and...fuses are designed to protect wiring...NOT the device, or load. DD . |
Re: Correct gauge wire Should I be adding a fuse to this wire? It goes from starter solenoid, looped thru ammeter and to starter switch. Any accessory lights I have run direct from the battery thru a fuse and a relay.
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Re: Correct gauge wire No fuse.
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Re: Correct gauge wire The original was not fused. Way later years used a fusible link in the wiring.
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I'm going away from the cloth wire to plastic coated, originality is not huge on the list.... would you recommended adding a fuse for the heck of it or leave it out? |
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Leave the fuse out on that circuit. You DO realize that all wires are not the same. You want a soft-stranded, very flexible automotive-type wire that is not so stiff as to be prone to vibration-induced cracking, like "GXL" wire. DD |
Re: Correct gauge wire If a buss wire is fused, which is rare in automobiles in the early Ford era, it has to have a fuse and a wire that can carry the rated load of the system. The 1938 was likely still a 25-amp system with a 3-brush generator and a cut out relay but it may depend on whether it is a standard or deluxe model. Voltage regulators and 35-amp generators were in their infancy in 1938. 10 AWG wire would still be a safe bet. A fuse would not be original on a buss wire. Many used circuit breakers instead of fuses for protected circuits.
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Re: Correct gauge wire They used a bi-metallic strip that would hold connection till it got hot enough to trip. As soon as it cools then the circuit is restored. These type of short stop CBs were used up until recent 10 or 20 years ago in trucks and Harley Davidson motorcycles.
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The original wiring is just copper-cloth and any of it you have that is 80 years old simply must go away. |
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