Decided to pull the motor/trans So, I had done the valves and guides (they were shot) in hopes of fixing an oil consumption problem (1qt in 60 miles) to no avail. It ran sweet but still uses the same amount of oil. So, I pulled the head and dropped the pan so I could pull the pistons and check them out. When I had the head off to do the valves, I noticed that the cylinders were glazed but there was no ridge so was thinking a deglazing and new rings should do the trick. Nope. Has .0100 over pistons (for a 3.975 bore) and the bores mic'ed 3.986 and the rings had a gap of 1/8-3/16":eek:. There was also some scoring on the walls and pistons, mostly at the bottom of the cylinders. So, after some pondering, I decided to hone the cylinders out to 4" and put .0125 over pistons in. I did #1 cylinder in the car but found that the amount of metal dust produced was such that there was NO WAY I would be able to clean the bottom end sufficiently so I pulled the engine/trans to do it on the stand. In so doing, I found a few other issues that need to be dealt with. The oddest one was that one motor mount was broken. The face that bolts to the block was broke straight across the middle then up and around the edge so that the top bolt was not holding anything, just the broken square from the mount. NO IDEA how that could/would break that way. Also, the pressure plate fingers wee WAY out of whack (possibly explaining the clutch chatter when taking off). Two fingers were 1/8" plus lower than the others. A screw was missing from the bottom generator mount and the other was loose. Also found that the teeth on the ring gear are chewed but they are chewed on the backside which suggests to me that the ring gear was turned around as I would think that any grinding should occur on the front edge of the teeth where the bendix engages. It never made any noise when cranking so I think I will just leave that for now. Cylinders also had a wicked taper which takes some doing to remover (about .008 tighter at the bottom). Anyway, I'm going to try to set my clearances with a micrometer since the engine is out and on the stand. Mic the journal, then mic the corresponding "circle" and adjust for .0015 difference. The cam shows, what looks to me like, a fair amount of wear. The clutch disc looks OK but is solid. Not sure if it's worth putting a new spring damped disc in or not.
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans Valve guides in any engine will not cause that much oil consumption. Ringing it properly is a good thing. But, with .008" taper I would recommend sending it out for boring. I prefer to leave the piston clearances a bit on the wide/loose side. But, thats just me.
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans At 37 bucks change the clutch disc every time,especially if it chatters.generally when the cylinder bores are worn and the valve guides are shot every other component is worn..bearings,distributor drive,oil pump,everything should get a full inspection.
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans Quote:
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans Quote:
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans I'll deal with only one item. The ring gear needs the rounded side of the teeth at the rear as it sits in the chassis. When you remove the starter the bendix goes past the ring gear and comes forward to engage, the rounded end of each tooth aids in engaging. same for the bendix, rounded end is the engage side.
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans Quote:
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans I see I have some up and down movement in the input shaft in the trans. Don't know what that means But I'm going to tear the tranny down and look things over while everything is out.
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans Engine doesn't have cam bearings,up and down play on the trans input shaft is normal,the pilot bearing in the flywheel supports it. Good news about the bearings,thats expensive work saved
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans Tore the tranny down. Gears are rounded on the tips and one tooth on one (don't recall which one) has a small chip. Not sure what to do there. $1000 for all new guts for a car that will see MAYBE 1000 miles a year???. Trans works well but would jump out of second when pulling. Hate to put it back together as is but...........I've got tomorrow to ponder and look them over again. Interesting note, Rather than two roller bearings and a spacer in the cluster it had three roller bearings. two short and one long. Also, rather than snap rings to hold the main bearings, there is a ridge cast into the case. Sure this is a model year thing just don't know enough about these to know what year.
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans Jumping out of gear will only get worse. Fix it while it is out.
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans Quote:
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans Quote:
Quote:
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans Quote:
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans Quote:
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans Quote:
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans Quote:
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans Quote:
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans Input shaft of tranny will wiggle a little. Since you have it apart, verify bearing is good, ie smooth. I would be tempted to replace all the bearings while it’s apart, but at least a thorough examination.
|
Re: Decided to pull the motor/trans Update. Motor and trans are back together and in the car. The motor got new pistons and rings, {.0125 over), cylinders honed to .004 piston/wall clearance, checked bearing clearances, all but one were between -0015 and .002, the other was about .0025 so I removed one shim, replaced head studs and replaced the ring gear. Trans was disassembled and inspected, replaced both shafts and rebuilt the shifter ball. Trans case and tower powder coated black as well as the clam shell halves. Motor and bell housing painted ford green. Have put on about 180 miles, runs great and no sign of oil use. far cry from the 1qt per 60 miles before.
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:35 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.