The Ford Barn - Help!!!

The Ford Barn (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/index.php)

- Model A (1928-31) (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=3)

- - Help!!! (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297089)

I have a 1930 model A. I was starting perfectly .... it would crank and start immediately. All of a sudden it cranks forever and I can’t get it started. What happened ? The battery is charged.

Any ideas ?

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Blocked fuel line and blown/missing fuse are some common causes.

Thanks I’ll check that

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Yes check fuel, and perhaps the points need to be cleaned up, especially if it has been sitting for a while. Check to see if you have power to the junction box, both terminals; power to the coil , with the switch on -power to the points (the points need to be open, or put something insulating between them) spark out of the distributor, plugs sparking. Carburetor clean and nothing blocking fuel flow. Need to rule out spark and fuel. engine needs spark, fuel, and air.

Try your horn. If it works, your fuse is good. Easy.
Pass a business card between the points to clean them. If it ran last month, don’t start changing anything. Find the problem and fix that. Good luck.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jacksonlll (Post 2005782)

Pay attention to this guy, he only gives great advice.

It was running when you shut it off, so it is either spark or fuel. Quick and easy check with some help shoot a little starting fluid into carb as the engine is being cranked, if it fires at all then you have a fuel problem. If it does not fire then you have spark problem. Take a plug out and ground the plug to the engine block and have someone turn the engine over with the starter does the plug spark (other methods are acceptable too such as a screwdriver grounded to engine and held close to spark plug wire...look for spark. If no spark see the below:
Here is a copy of a post Mike V posted. Please read the entire post.....If it is the junction box ...should be power on both sides. If not the Amp gauge is bad. Jump across the two lugs of the junction box to bypass meter....

Senior Member

Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Central New Jersey
Posts: 174
Default Re: Coil problem?
Mike V Florida has posted this and I think it's wonderful:

This is my generic no spark troubleshooting list,

No Spark
Some possibilities are:
1.Blown or defective fuse (use of a fuse is an aftermarket item)
2.Bad connections at ammeter, or ammeter itself (t0 find out put a jumper wire from one post of the terminal box to the other to take the ammeter out of the circuit temporarily)
3.Bad ignition switch and/or cable, or loose cable connection at the switch.
4.Loose or broken wires at bottom of coil
5.Loose or broken wires inside terminal box
6.Loose, bare or broken pigtail wire under distributor plate, or wire grounding to plate or distributor body
7.Points not opening, or point arm grounding to cam due to worn rubbing block
8.Worn electrode in underside of distributor cap
9.Loose or broken high tension wire from coil to cap
10.Condenser burned out or grounding (some condensers are too long and can touch the distributor body inside)
11.Weak coil
12.Rotor not turning due to loose cam screw or bad timing gear.

Ok now break out a volt meter (a light bulb can give false readings).
Start at the fuse block, you should have voltage on both sides of the fuse. If you only have voltage on one side, replace the fuse or fuse block.

Now with voltage on both sides of the fuse, move up to the junction box. There should be voltage at both terminals. If voltage is present only on one side the problem is at the ampmeter and you should Jumper the ampmeter for now.
You should have voltage on both sides of the coil. If not,
remove the red wire on the coil and check again. If you now have voltage on both sides, you have a problem further on. If the voltage is still only in one side you have a bad coil.

Open the points with a piece of paper and remove the condenser. Turn the key on and you should have voltage at the points.
Replace the condenser and you should still have voltage.

If the voltage is missing, remove the top plate and check for voltage on the bottom plate.

Check if the connector from the ignition switch screwed in too far? Do you have voltage on the wire to the upper plate?

Is this wire shorting to ground or broken?

Remove the paper from the points and see that the points are closed. You should not have 0 volts at the points. If you do, the points are dirty or the distributor is not grounded well to the engine.

Keep us updated...I can't stand typing my fingers off and never hearing if anything worked.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LouMercado (Post 2005756)

Thank you everybody. I’ll take your recommendations next weekend

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I’ve had starting issues similar to this twice. The first time it was a bad ammeter, and connecting a jumper across the junction box studs helped me find it.

The second time, it was a bad tachometer, which was attached to both coil studs. The tachometer was robbing the coil of energy, which caused the coil to deliver poor spark. Disconnecting the tachometer helped me find it.

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check if your points have closed up.

I once had a choke linkage disconnect from the choke rod and shut the car off like you turned off the ignition. I was trouble shooting something else when I bumped the choke link on the carb and found it was disconnected. Otherwise, I was probably going to get towed home. Just another unexpected place to check.

GeneBob, Had the same thing happen, choke arm came off the shaft, was heading to a funeral late. Took a clothes pin off my gas line (I just store some there for emergencies like this, it doesn't vapor lock) and clipped it to the choke shaft, weight of clothes pin kept the choke open till I got home.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jg61hawk (Post 2005801)

Quote:

Originally Posted by jg61hawk (Post 2008355)

well?

I think he’s been working on your post for the last 15 days. 😇

David Serrano

I think he’s been working on your post for the last 15 days. ��

Ha that's good. He must be up to the last two paragraphs by now!!!

Could be timing gear.

Correction to my post....

I think there is a mistake a typo...I believe the following is correct

With the points open (paper inserted) there should be battery voltage at all times. With the points closed ( no paper) there should be 0 volts at all times. [ key on].

The posted "you should not have 0" ...I believe should read "you should have 0" .

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...olts+key+on%5D

Read # 6 and then 7 of the attached thread.... Points closed 0 volts would be correct.