My '34 Won't Turnover
 

I'm back to Florida and my '34 has been sitting in the garage since mid June. I've never had an issue with the engine not turning over until the other day when I tried to start the car for the first time.
I take the battery out during the summer. I charged it and put it back in the car. Checking it with a tester it has plenty of juice.
I turned the ignition switch on and the ammeter drops slightly, just under "0". When I press on the starter button the engine does not turnover. It doesn't click or anything. Looking at the ammeter when I press on the starter button it goes back to "0".
I checked the wire on the starter. Its clean and tight.
I'm thinking that the problem is something simple since I've never had an issue with it starting. Also, the starter was rebuilt a couple of years ago.
Anyone got any suggestions?
Thanks, Tom

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

Turn on headlights--- observe brightness, engauge starter--- does brightness change?

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

What did you check your battery with??? If a VO meter that's not necessarily and indicator of a "good" battery. You need to check them with a hydrometer and check each cell!!! you could have a bad cell or two, it will still give you 6V but not near enough AMPS. The headlight test will also "help" tell, they won't stay lit long at all with a two bad cells!!!

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

4 balls floating in each cell with the tester. Battery is reading over 7 volts.

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

Maybe the starter pinion gear is hung-up on the flywheel. Rock the car back and forth in high gear. It will make a 'clunk' sound when it releases....

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

Clean the battery terminal connections, all connections to ground, from ground to engine, and to the starter. If that does not fix it, suspect the starter switch. I presume you have the one on the floor. If that has been replaced by a solenoid, suspect the solenoid.

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

Then "Petehoovie" first, then follow Drolston's advice!!!

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

When you say it doesn’t click or anything, I would suspect the starter solenoid. Jump from the battery direct to the starter to see if that works.

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

Load test battery

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

A 34, if stock, does not have a solenoid.

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

Clean all ground straps . Corrosion is a big problem down here . Check starter to block , frame to engine and body , all need good clean ground.

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

Quote: "I turned the ignition switch on and the ammeter drops slightly, just under "0". When I press on the starter button the engine does not turnover. It doesn't click or anything. Looking at the ammeter when I press on the starter button it goes back to "0"."


That returning of the gauge to 0 when you press the starter button sounds like a battery connection OR a battery that goes open circuit when load is applied. To test, press the starter button while your volt meter is on the battery. If it drops to near 0 the battery is done. If it stays at a good voltage level, it's probably a connection.


Terry

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

My post on the solenoid was obviously wrong, and I learn something new every day on this site. When did Ford start using solenoids in the starting circuit?

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

Around 37, 36 still had a floor starter switch and 37 had a firewall starter solenoid, but not sure if it was a model year change or not.

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

If you are using the original foot starter switch, that may be an issue.
Mine shit itself, really poor contact and it was hit or miss that the starter would engage to the point I thought the starter was shot, replaced it, what a difference just like new.

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

The ammeter has NOTHING to do do with the starter motor or cranking circuit so dont look at it. Have someone push the starter switch on the floor while you give the starter motor a bit of a tap-tap with a hammer and see if it cranks. If it does not crank then you will have to do some TESTING with a voltmeter or a test light and find out where you have or have not got power. The only way to test a batteries capacity to do work is with a load tester which loads a battery with about 200 amps or so for a short time, about 10 or 15 seconds. Most home workshops dont have a good one of those so take it to an auto electrical shop and have them test it. Im not convinced a local parts shop have a proper load tester. The old foot starter switches get a bit tired and new ones are around on ebay. As I said you need to test and not just guess by replacing parts. Regards, Kevin.

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

I had a similar issue with my '32 V8 5W. After checking all the connections and not finding any issues, I checked for continuity at the battery terminal clamp and the battery cable to that clamp and found none. I removed the terminal clamp on that battery cable and cleaned good and re-installed it. Started right up! If you have factory installed clamps...probably not the problem. I had shortened my battery cable at one time and installed the clamp myself. Good luck!

Pat

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

Be careful when doing some of these tests make sure you have the ignition off when tapping the starter and also the gear shift in neutral to many times these old girls will start when you didn’t expect it to and remember it doesn’t take much current to light a light bulb but takes a lot to turn the starter

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

There is a YouTube on the A site that goes over the rebuild of the starter button.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDBNoU0ZvLQ&app=desktop

Re: My '34 Won't Turnover
 

Lets see turn ign on amp shows a little discharge thats good that means coil juice. step on the starter amp gauge shows 0 and nothing happens. And mentioned to turn on headlights then step on the starter do the lights go out: yes or no. If yes you had better check cables with a test light. If no its the starter switch known bad out of the box. If you
took that switch apart I bet the disk and contacts are all black and its getting a little
sizzle contact to kill the coil but not enough power for the starter &
(amp meter goes to 0) thats a red flag. We built a test stand for V8s have that starter
switch all common to tractors industrial engines. the first push Junk. So I say take the
starter cable off and with test light on that cable now press the switch does test light
glow ? if yes now ground that cable and I bet the light will go out. starter switch juck.