Help with an 8BA head.
 

When I cleaned all the paint off my heads back in March, I broke off whatever was in one of the temperature sender ports. It didn’t look like a stock part to me and it was old and brittle and shattered.
I did my best to remove it, but it didn’t cooperate.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/pictu...ictureid=43087

Could someone tell me what the size and thread the temp senders are? I tried to run a 1/2 -20 tap (the largest one I have) and it’s obvious that it’s not the correct one. So it has to be at least 5/16, correct?

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/pictu...ictureid=43085


Basically, I’m looking for what size I need to tap it with and then what I need to put in it, be it a plug or different temp sender.

Thanks Ford Barn, I appreciate the help!

Terranova

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

3/8 " pipe tap, that was not a temp sender but the water heater outlet pipe, put a 3/8" brass pipe plug in the tapped out hole with antiseize

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

Before you retap it with the pipe thread make sure you first obtain the outlet pipe so you can "test fit" the pipe at each turn of the tap. Otherwise you will tap too deep and destroy the "pipe thread" fit which makes it water tight. Use anti seize on the new pipe.

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

Thank you for the anti seize tip and the test fit idea too.
A 3/8 tap is too small. I am also not currently interested in replacing the heater tap, just plugging it. I guess at this point, I can tap it at whatever next size fits as long as I find a plug that size?

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

3/8 NPT (National Pipe Thread) Is quite a bit larger than 3/8" SAE which is the standard for nuts and bolts. As mentioned, it is pipe thread.

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

As noted it is a pipe thread and therefore tapered.

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

:rolleyes:

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

You must remove the part of the thread that is in there before you try to retap it . Google how to remove a broken pipe thread and retap the same. I've done quit a few in the past.

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

Ok, I get it now, sorry.

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

It might be easier to get another head. 8BA heads are pretty easy to find. I see you are somewhere in Ohio. I would bet there are at least a dozen within 20 miles of you. The problem is finding them.

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

I believe he has an EAB head, not as common as an 8BA head.
Any way, what he has is an easy fix.

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

Just replace the head

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

...and send that one to me! :D:D


Terry

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

Yeah, I have always been a sucker for trusting the title of a thread.

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

I have some 8BA heads sitting around if you need them. I’m off I-75 about 20 miles north of Cincinnati, so we’re not exactly neighbors.

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

I'm not sure I see the concern here, isn't the EAB the derisible head? And it would most likely need milled anyway. Unless there is not enough meat left on it, what is the issue?

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

The title of his thread is about an 8BA head. He’s being offered 8BA heads. But, the picture he posted is an EAB head. I think this is the cause of the confusion. I know I had to read it a couple times.....Mark

P.S. or are you confusing this with the thread about different sized domes? ........Mark

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

LOL, You are correct! :)

Re: Help with an 8BA head.
 

It looks like you still have enough hanging out to work with. I would hit that area with a MAPP torch and some wax. Let it go through a couple of heat/cool cycles. I think you can get it out. Pretty sure the water outlet is steel so welding a nut on it might be the next tactic.

JB