Brakes
 

I have a 31 A with hydraulic brakes I have put new shoes,springs, wheel cylinders,rubber lines,master cylinder. An still sponge brakes an I know the first thing is bleed them I have Bleed them. My drum set are steel an old (will cast iron drum help). Help never had all these problems.

Re: Brakes
 

Slightly spongy pedal can come from new shoes, or, air still in the system. I'd recommend trying to bleed them some more, I think there is still air somewhere.
What style master ? What type wheel cylinders [ single or dual ] Singles can be a PITA to bleed.

Re: Brakes
 

They are single. The bottom adjusters Diden seem to do any good. I know the dots should face each other with new shoes. Not good on adjusting

Re: Brakes
 

They can be buggers to bleed. Do the bottoms first.

Bleed the master cylinder on its own. Make a line to pump the fluid back into the reservoir and get the air out of it first.

Adjust the bottom first, then tops. The adjusters need to be good or a good adjustment can't be done.

Chamfer the ends of the shoes and make sure they are installed where they should be if there are primary and secondary shoes. [ if they are of different length.]

Re: Brakes
 

Was the problem there before you did all of the work?

Did you have the drums turned, remember that you can't turn steel drums as far as cast iron, how far out are your drums?

Did you have the shoes arced?

What hydraulic brake conversion are you using? Most people use '40-'48 Ford drums but they are cast iron. The only steel drums I can think of would have been with a conversion kit from the forties that used mostly original Model A parts. I can't remember much about it except that I thought it was a very poor design.

Charlie Stephens

Re: Brakes
 

How did you get steel drums for hydraulic brakes, didn't Ford
go to cast drums in late 1931?

Re: Brakes
 

I bought the car with these brakes. I decided to put all new brakes. The only thing I did not change was drums.

Re: Brakes
 

How about a picture? I bet the drums are the '40-'48 cast drums.

Charlie Stephens

Re: Brakes
 

My only guess is that there was a kit back in the forties that let you convert your Model A to hydraulics using mostly Model A Parts. Having said that I would agues that the drums are really cast iron and '40-'48 Ford.

Charlie Stephens

Re: Brakes
 

I think most Model A conversions back in the 40's to 60's were a visit to a junk yard and front bearing spacers from Honest Charley's. If the early style (39-42) correct adj is critical as well as arced shoes to clean surfaced drums.
Paul in CT

Re: Brakes
 

If you have a dbl. master cylinder under the floor or even a single you should have a 10 lb. residual check valve in the line which keeps slight pressure on the shoes,some master cylinders have the valve built in.They also sell a tool that will pull a vacuum at the wheel cylinder and bleed the air out,start at the farthest cylinder first.

Re: Brakes
 

The problem can be weak brake hoses or a bad master cylinder as well.Not knowing what brakes you have or the quality of installation can be very dangerous,learn the system installed.

One big issue with bleeding is master cylinder placement,most all factory hydraulic brake systems put the master (or its reservoir) above the wheel cylinders to allow for gravity bleeding.

Re: Brakes
 

Charlie I do have steel drums , I had a mechanic help me he said they were steel An thin an I should put cast iron on the car. We changed the master cylinder 5 times before getting one that diden loose pressure .

Re: Brakes
 

All Ford drums after late '31 were cast iron. To check this, use your pocket knife to peel a sliver off your drums. If they are iron you will not get a sliver off, just small particles, steel will come off in a longer sliver. The dots you speak of should be facing each other only on the initial drum installation, they then must be adjusted. Adjustment initially takes a little time, but once right, the lower adjusters need no more attention. Adjust by first moving the top adjusters out to just contact the drums, then back them off a little and move the lower adjusters. Proceed going back and forth, top to bottom, until both are out as far as possible. When correct the top adjusters should free the wheel rotation with just a little movement. They should be easy to bleed, start at the farthest wheel from the M/cyl. and work towards the closest, i.e., RR, LR, RF, LF. I recommend silicone fluid, DOT-5, as it rejects moisture, so the cylinders will last nearly forever. Good luck!

Re: Brakes
 

Are they 11 or 12 inches in diameter? I would sure like to see a picture.

Charlie Stephens

Re: Brakes
 

I would also like to see a picture of the drums.

Re: Brakes
 

Didn't Ford make some drums that were stamped steel with a cast iron liner? Maybe late 30's? I could be remembering wrong too.



Perhaps you have some high spot in the lines somewhere that is trapping air?

Re: Brakes
 

Charlie. The drums are 12 inch. I wish I could send pics but can’t.

Re: Brakes
 

I think 1940 drums were cast with a steel center.

Re: Brakes
 

Yep, 40-41 drums. http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/V8brakedrums.htm