Crank misaligned with FAM
 

Hi,

I *think* I have this figured out, but I wanted to be sure before I do something stupid.

I am trying to get the timing correct on my '30 Coupe (it was not running right, points were way off, and the distributor body had a lot of play, etc. The car has sat for over three years). Anyway, I can't adjust the crankshaft position to accomplish the timing, since I cannot engage the crank nut through the crank hole - the crank is hitting the bottom edge of the crank nut. The front of the engine is too high by maybe 3/8" or so.

The Coupe is equipped with Float-A-Motor aluminum motor mounts in the rear. The thick rubber pads are on the bottom, and it appears that having thinner ones would only make the problem worse, as lowering the rear of the engine would raise the crank nut even higher. I'd prefer not to mess with the rear engine mounts if it can be avoided.

It appears that I could tighten the front engine mount bolt - it looks like there's enough space in the spring to do that.

What I want to know, is this: am I approaching this right? Have I missed something? Will tightening the front mount cause me more problems?

Thanks
Ed

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

the rear FAM mounts on the clutch housing have an up and downside. they are probably installed wrong, flip them over should fix your problem.

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

Hi huddy,

Timing for now, (with help of another person), can be done by:

1. Removing 4 plugs.

2. Jack up one rear wheel & place transmission in gear.

3. Rotate rear wheel in forward direction until timing pin slips in.

Hope this helps to make it run better.

Motor mounts can be done later.

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

huddy it should be pretty easy to rotate the crank pulley by hand in neutral with the plugs out or if you have the space just roll it in gear

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

I guess I'm missing something. The only way it seems to fix this is raising the rear of the engine or lowering the front. The bottom pads are the thicker ones, so swapping them with the upper pads should have the opposite effect. Unless, perhaps, the entire mounts are reversed or upside down?

I might take a photo tomorrow and seek further comments.

Thanks
Ed

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

CONK! (Sound of hand smacking self in head). I should have thought of that! Thank you - thank you!

Ed

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

its the actual aluminum block that bolts to the flywheel housing can be upside down

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

Mitch,

Thank you. I will certainly try that! I knew someone would offer something helpful. I was way too focused on the hand crank issue. (Still want to fix that eventually, though).

Ed

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

Definitely first check the rear mount installation per Mitch/pa above. Also, have you installed the rear transmission support? The FAM system is less rigid than the stock mounts and needs the rear trans support, although it is often not installed. The rubber donuts compress over time and the rear support is needed. Once you check these things, you can then adjust the front mount to fit.

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

Here's photos of the mounts and crank misalignment.

I don't know if the tranny mount is installed, as I didn't do the installation and the previous owner (my very good friend) has gone to that great garage in the sky, 3+ years past. I will have to do an inspection underneath and such, and had planned to do so as I doubt the car has been lubed for quite some time.

Anyway, here's the photos; I hope someone can tell me something from them. The left mount is first, then the right, and finally the crank.

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

Some mounts are marked top but not all so be careful

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

Be careful if you use the crank pulley to turn the engine. They can break pretty easily. Also, don't use your fan either, for the same reason.

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

Ray

Thanks for the heads-up. Coupe has a plastic 5-bladed fan so no problem there, won't touch it. Hadn't heard about the crank but I'll be careful if I ever can get it to engage. I've ordered the tool from Bratton's that accesses the hex nut on the pulley and will use that for setting timing after today.

Today I'll probably just do the "remove the plugs and jack a rear tire" trick and confront the engine mount issue later. I'm not driving for a few days anyway because I'm waiting for some parts to arrive, including a new wiring harness (the old one is pretty bad) and some ignition parts (old disty is also pretty worn). I wanted to start it up so I could back it out onto my gravel drive and give the engine a good cleaning, along with a coolant flushing.

--Ed

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

Guys,

Are we sure this is true? It seems to me that "lowering the rear of the engine" would lower the whole drive train, engine front and all. There is nothing holding the end of the driveshaft and U-joint, etc. in place that would force the motor to teeter-totter as though the rear mounts were a fulcrum. (Of course, the front mount could be tightened to forcer teetering.)

I vaguely recall hearing years ago that some of the FAM rubber pads had to be cut down.

My understanding is that you are supposed to tighten the FAM center bolts until you have just begun to further visibly compress the bisquits. Similarly for the hold down nut and the springs on the front mount. Probably not but maybe this would buy you enough to engage the hand crank?

Steve

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

the float o motor system has another mount that attaches to the U joint housing and rests on a rubber block which rests on the rear cross member. These are often omitted, which causes the rear of the engine to sag. Is yours there?

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

I've heard a number of different theories about what that thing is for. Just looking at it, and how it's attached, it's hard to believe it's designed to support much weight. The most compelling notion I've heard is that it's more of a "snubber" against excessive teetering around the rear mounts in case the front of the motor is bounced up on a rough road. Thus, it is sort of obviated if you also use the more modern style front mount, which holds the front of the motor down as well as up.

I've spent a lot of time taking mine in and out while trying to perceive any difference in vibration isolation. Installing my F150 trans finally relieved me of the decision.

Steve

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

Guys, my front mount appears to be original (car was made mid-June 1930) and doesn't look to have been disturbed for a llllong time. Motor has been out as my friend put in a balanced crank & cut down flywheel about 15-yrs ago. I think that's when he put the FAM mounts in.

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

Just jack up on the flywheel housing until you get the nut lightned up with the hole. It won't take much. Then fix the motor mounts when you can.

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

In my experience it's highly unlikely you have the original front mount springs. Did you check out the link in post #10? I'm betting on that being the problem. The good thing is appropriate springs are now readily available.

Re: Crank misaligned with FAM
 

Huddy, I didn't mean to imply that using the crank might damage the pulley; that is the right way to turn it. I meant applying some kind of pry bar or long screwdriver from the side might cause damage. Your crank should work fine if the ratchet bolt is in good condition.