30 tudor top wood question
 

Hello its been awhile since I have posted, just retired and starting on my projects, I have a 1930 tudor I am starting on and I was wondering if anyone has cut and replaced their own top wood. I pulled out some of the rotted wood and now looking to replace it, I ordered the bows and front header, I noticed I have to do some fit and finish to make them fit correctly... so I figured I might as well cut and form it myself.
I have woodworking experience and band saw, table saws and routers... my question is what species of wood would be recommended and is there anywhere to get the specs for like the rear header. all that was completely rotted and crumbled when removed. The sides over the door and windows were not complete at the front header, they were cut flush at the rear of header. any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Re: 30 tudor top wood question
 

Yes, we cut our own wood. The typical species we use is Ash. I have not used any commercially available wood in awhile however you are likely correct in your assessment about it not fitting and will need additional fitting.

I am not sure what you are calling a Rear Header as that was not a Ford term. If you are speaking of the #8 Roof Rib, that is part number A-57247. If you are speaking of the Frame over the top of of the rear window, that is part number A-57070. If you need a complete Window Frame Assembly, that part number is A-57074. The Rail (Roof) Front which you are calling the Header is part # A-57238 however there are many other pieces like A-57236, -238, -257, -258, et/al that are needed to get all of the dimensions. All of these drawings are available from the Benson Ford library (-whenever they re-open) however they are very complex in their dimensioning and very hard to obtain layout measurements unless you can convert it into CAD and then do 1:1 drawings from multiple angles. You are best to obtain these in person after you have looked at each of the drawings to make sure it has the info that you need. Most hobbyists will tell you that obtaining factory drawings is not worth the expense for the information they receive because of the expense.

Re: 30 tudor top wood question
 

I'd think most any hardwood would be fine. If you'd like Ash, I have a lot that I cut and dried, most is 5/4, 6 inch wide, bandsawn, clear and straight grain, 10 foot boards I could cut to length. We are losing a lot of Ash to the Emerald Ash Borer here, so I cut more than I needed knowing it wasn't going to last in the woods. Shipping would probably be expensive, but throwing it out there in case you don't have any locally.

Re: 30 tudor top wood question
 

Thanks for the replies, Brent I think the rear header I am referring to is the #8 rib...I thought it was one piece but according to Les Andrews book he calls it rear header and support shows 2 pcs. Are these pieces available without buying the whole kit? Those are the pcs. that crumbled, the rest I think I can recreate because I have enough of the rest to get measurements from.

Mister Moose thanks for the offer, we have ash available here from some of our suppliers, I'm sure it would be costly for shipping I live in Birchwood Tennessee about 30 miles north of Chattanooga. But I do appreciate the offer.

Thanks again

Re: 30 tudor top wood question
 

I have never understood why some authors use words that are not of Ford's nomenclature as it can be very confusing when trying to locate something when folks of different areas use different words to describe the same item.

I would expect those items to be available from the wood manufacturers however their backlog may be substantial in the present day economy. Best to check with them directly.

Re: 30 tudor top wood question
 

I use hard maple for most pieces. I get it from Peach State Lumber in Kennesaw which is fairly near you .

Re: 30 tudor top wood question
 

There are charts on wood strength and durability that you may consult. I found out the hard way that oak is not a very durable hardwood - Used it in a boat and it turned almost to dust in 4 years.

John

Re: 30 tudor top wood question
 

It’s the Janka hardness scale. But it doesn’t tell all about suitablility.
I’ve found that ash and hard maple work best. Oak can cause acid reaction with metals when water is present.
Ford prints also call for birch as acceptable wood but never tried it.
Most boats used to be some sort of mahogany. ChrisCraft used to be a big company in our city.

Re: 30 tudor top wood question
 

Correct, but the main frame was a harder wood, I don't know what it was.

John

Re: 30 tudor top wood question
 

White oak is big in boat frames. Elsewhere lots of mahogany, white cedar, teak as well. Sitka spruce for masts.

Re: 30 tudor top wood question
 

I believe that according to the chart I saw red oak was pretty close to white oak for strength but way lower for durability.

John