Cheap Internal Upgrades?
 

So ive found that the top end of my 1940 v8 needs a complete overhaul. the bottom end so far looks good though. Does anyone know any cheap upgrades that would work for the top end? Say pistons from another engine that fit? Anything really just want to hear some options. Im going to have to resleave the cylinders so thats not a big deal.

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Another engine? Why another engine?

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Yes, go to 3 3/16, mill the "A" heads for .040" piston to head clearance. Very inexpensive up grade and a major increase in torque and economy. Make sure the dist is operating properly and tune the engine with an A/F meter.

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Do as OL'RON says. It make a nice little engine. Remove the sleeves and bore it another .045 to 3-3/16 std. If it's really a shoe string job somebody probably has a good used set of std. 8BA pistons. Walt

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It is a shoe string job since its my own. Mike the reason I said from another engine is ive heard of guys running 283 Chevy pistons in their Model As and wasn't sure if there was some kind of upgrade like that for a v8. Thanks Ol Ron that sounds like a good setup. As far as the dist. I got a 11A I believe it is which is mint NOS Ford rebuilt that I'm gonna put on it. And thanks Walt I'll see if I can find a set of used 8bas, they fit the 3 3/16?

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Ron
Don't you need a oxygen sensor for a A/F meter?

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Surpirsingly I actually have an old Sun diagnostic machine so I have a way to test the A/F ratio.

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Yes a wide band O2 sensor is the best way to go, but I've used thise exhaust pipe sensors and they work pretty good just slow and some are static. You need one you can drive around with.,

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jkeesey - I'd suggest that you might want to have your stock distributor set up professionally and the advance curve checked, etc. Small changes here along with a compression and displacement boost will really make a nice running engine. FWIW

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Anybody putting O2 sensors on a flathead is an idiot in my opinion. Just don't seem right.

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Opinions are like #ssholes, everyone has one. I think you should have kept yours to yourself.

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Anybody putting a flatbed on a classic ford truck is an idiot.....just because u wouldn't do it doesn't mean its wrong for someone else to. An O2 sensor gives u tuning accuracy. Who's the idiot.

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This ^^^^^^

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How does this AF meter on a flathead work? Is it permanantly installed? Does it need 12 volts. I know one is not needed but once you make the smallest modification you admit it could be better and after that there really is no line.
Ron, if you have a minute to take your idiot hat off an answer my question I am sure more than just me would appreciate it.

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Ron, just keep on doing what you are doing. I enjoy your posts and respect your knowledge and have learned a great deal from you.
please keep us updated.

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Anyobody calling Ol' Ron an idiot obviously has been around here very long. The 02 sensors ive seen are 12 volt and you can get them from the Sunpro company and many others.

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Guess I'm an "idiot" also. Putting an O2 sensor & gauge on the flathead was one of my best improvements.
Butch

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I'll join the crowd. Put a modified 8ba in my '46. When back on the road, it will have an A/F meter for tuning purposes.

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I too would like to hear more about o2 sensors and A/F meters.

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Guess old Henry is an Idiot.

My minivan has a O2 sensor, not my flathead.

Have a good day guys.

Sorry for striking some chords LOL

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A very inexpensive O2 sensor and display can be had from Cyberdyne gauges. This unit uses a bar graph to display the air/fuel ratio. You can tune to your engine with this but it's not as accurate as the wide band unit we use. The NGK unit goes up to 16:1, but our new unit goes up to 22:1 A/F. At present we're running in the high 15's low 16's.. You have to pay attention to your timing curve and engine temperature. Burning ALL the fues eliminates cylinder ware due to the lack of un burnt gas wiping down your cyliders and improve wring life. With the present gas It's hard to read plugs.
When building an engine you should take advantage of all the new ideas the Auto manufactures have come up with over the past 50 years and apply them to our trusty Flathead s.
Us idiots have perseverance and get better mileage..

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I second that! Excellent info especially to noobs like myself who are trying to learn as much as possible about these engines.

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I was just making a point. An O2 sensor is an excellent tuning tool whether it be on your minivan or your Flathead. I'd rather have hard data that helps me tune my engine to get the maximum performance and economy out of it than just guessing at it. Telling someone they are an idiot for using a tried and true method for getting the maximum performance from their engine is complete ignorance. I don't presume to know you or your knowledge on the subject of Flathead tuning, I just think it was an ignorant thing to say when someone is simply asking for the expertise of the other users on this forum.

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O.K. If I would like to install a A/F gauge and sensor. How do I do it and how would I use it? I am very interest in the advantages of the use and how to set it up. Wiring and etc.

Thanks
Bill S

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I do allot of things that don't work, but I'm alittle stubborn so I have to try anyway. This can get out of hand. Back in the 90's I tried to get an early factory EFI system system to work and I made a whole bunch of them that didn't. I was in a junk yard yanking another out of an old ford, when my hand slipped and I cut my wrist quite seriously. I went to the clinic and the doc sewed it up, then he said at my age I should have a colonoscopy, Which I did and they found some bad Sh*t. All fixed now. But I never got any of those EFI's to work.

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I'ld like to know about the 02 sensor and A/F gauge as an addition to my flathead. Will keep an eye on this thread... Thanks for the thought.
Karl

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Well Ron, I'm pleased as punch your colon is still working.

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As many have said, an AF gauge is an excellent tool. Essentially, a bung is welded into the exhaust head-pipe on one side (or both). An O2 sensor is then screwed into the bung and an AF meter is then hooked up for tuning. When not in use, a plug is screwed into the bung, and no-one is the wiser. Some people leave it installed as a means of constantly monitoring the engines' fuel mixtures.

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Ron, The high 15s low 16s sounds a little lean. From what I have been reading the 14s seem better for cruising and WOT was in the 12s low 13s. Of cours all the info I found was for modern engines and may the flathead design requires something different.
Anyone here have a suggestion on which model to buy? Also how how can you tell if the problem is timing or misture when an adjustment needs to be made?

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I have an NGK unit, however Richard bought another unit that JWL recomended and it works better has 22:1 hi range. Tuning for economy is our latest project and you have to keep doing things to improve or dis prove your last modification.That's why airplanes are better than the wrights. Richard made ou a monitor that displays A/f, RPN, Vacuum and timing as you drive the car, this is then recorded on video tape for later observation. These tests show the affects of all driving conditions on the ignition and fuel mixtures.. We then post our findings on the barn, so you don't have to do this. After all somebody gota do it or we'd still be walking.

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Give that man a medal!

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The unit I bought was from AEM. It has both digital and analog readouts