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Time for a head gasket... Massive amounts of oily steam from the exhaust...suddenly running poorly.
Looks like I get my first Model A head gasket lesson! It isn't leaking externally, no water in the oil. She just started pumping steam and I'm getting a bunch of carbon/water on the floor out of the exhaust (I think that's the worst stuff I've ever had to clean off the floor...carbon black is almost as bad as Prussian Blue...). I guess I'll make up a list of parts and get an order going. I've searched the forum for tips, techniques, gasket recommendations (509C w/copper spray). Watched a couple of videos. Last time I installed a head gasket was when I was 13...on a 289 Chevy. :D Of course, this will be a great time to heli-coil those distributor locking screw threads. Probably get a new set of head studs and nuts. I have a basic gasket set (no head gasket). Might as well replace the old radiator hoses while I'm at it. |
Re: Time for a head gasket... Trapdoor2, this video from Paul Shinn should be of help to you.
https://youtu.be/Mh3VZ6iQSGU?si=s5Iw0IVZ_AWkmjw5 |
Re: Time for a head gasket... Hello, at least you won’t have to reset valves on a Model A , drain water. , remove hose , maybe the water pump, some times the head and block have gained a great affection to each other, I have made an adapter to fit the spark plug and pressurized the head to release from block , if you have problems with that. Good luck.
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Re: Time for a head gasket... Follow what Paul does in his video, take out the spark plugs, loosen the head nuts, shove some nylon rope (Lowes/Home Depot) into the front and rear spark plug hole till you can shove no more, bump over the starter gently and the head should pop up. The video shows Paul doing just that.
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I'm still in the testing mode. I checked the torque on as many head nuts as I could get to...some took a few degrees before they got up to 55in/lbs. I need a distributor torque wrench/adapter. I may have caused the problem when working on the distributor...I had to remove #8 and reinstall several times to get the cable clamp off for distributor removal/installation. I'll see when I get the head off. It will take a week or two for all the parts to arrive. I figure I might as well rehab everything associated with the head (water pump, etc.). |
Re: Time for a head gasket... A crows foot wrench at right angle to torque wrench beam is what you need.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1PLUU...RCKC9Q25G&th=1 |
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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...408092fab7.jpg |
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Now that I think about it, I remember getting 5 full sets of crow foot wrenches for installing fuel tubing into Tomahawk Cruise Missiles. We only needed a couple of sizes but the stupid supervisor on 2nd shift turned in the request...and got the full sets from Snap-on. I guess it wasn't his money! |
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Re: Time for a head gasket... Here is the adapter for the torque wrench to get around the distributor.
https://modelastore.com/index.php?ro...&category_id=0 |
Re: Time for a head gasket... 1 Attachment(s)
My home made offset wrench. I needed it for the manifold nuts with an intake manifold for a Weber down draft carburetor. The square tubing transfers the torque just fine.
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Re: Time for a head gasket... Since it still runs. Drain the water, back the head nuts off a few turns and start the car. That will pop the cylinder head loose.
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Re: Time for a head gasket... Not sure if you're going this route but if you don't have a high compression head, this would be a good time to consider one. Huge improvement in the giddy-up!
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Here at the beach, the only hills are overpasses. There's very little actual need for extra oomph. |
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Dad's '29 roadster pickup had a 322 nailhead Buick in it. Before the Buick, it had a flathead V8 (Mercury, IIRC). I wish I could find the picture of it with the flatty, it was beautiful. The Buick had a full set of lakes pipes. If we went out of the city, I could sometimes talk him into pulling the plugs out of the pipes. OMG loud! |
Re: Time for a head gasket... Do you think he should maybe check his block for flat spots or might mill the head since he’s got it removed?
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Opening up an engine is usually an exercise in "check everything you can" vs "what else can go wrong?" or "gee, I gotta spend more money than I expected". Everything that can be checked will be. Everything will be cleaned to the best of my ability. Valve seats will be eyeballed too. I used to have an old-fashioned hand-crank valve lapping tool, I wonder what happened to it? Naturally, you can find them on ebay... |
Re: Time for a head gasket... Far be from me to question guys like Paul Shinn but I don't like the idea of putting something into the cylinder and making the piston push it against the head...I'm thinking bad stuff like hydro-lock and bent rods.
I have done two heads used the tools that screw into the plug holes and worked it loose. That video is very nice...a little too clean for me to believe. The head popped doff the hood could stay on no head studs twisted out with the nuts...man that was easy. My jobs took 6 hours and two days to remove the heads! |
Re: Time for a head gasket... Sometimes they can be a bear to get off! Good luck https://youtu.be/MtgvnT6ab0U?si=q7mBc5n1MpTzgLMV
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Re: Time for a head gasket... I would pull the long water outlet studs to eliminate their effect on removing the head.
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Re: Time for a head gasket... I use a jam nut on top of the regular nut, or if necessary two jam nuts, and remove as many of the studs as will come out. I use an eye threaded into a couple of spark plug sockets to pull upwards. A few smacks with a dead blow hammer on the side of the head, while pulling upwards, usually pops it loose. I do pull the manifolds off to get them out of the way. Plastic shims like you use to install doors can help and won’t damage machined surfaces, but be careful you don’t drive them against the valves.
Copper clad head gaskets are a lot easier to remove than graphite, but I think the graphite gaskets seal better. |
Re: Time for a head gasket... I use this type of stud remover, it is concentric and that seems better than other types.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...3&gclsrc=3p.ds |
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Re: Time for a head gasket... Ok, I received my package from Snyder's...and problem solved.
Rule #1: do the quick and easy first: now having the wrench to work around the Distributor, I re-torqued the head (in the proper sequence). Not a single nut was at 55in/lb. Some got a few degrees of rotation, some got more. Topped up the radiator, checked the oil and cranked her up, no steam. Let her get to temp (I have one of those cheap IR thermometers with the laser), no steam. Took her around the block, no steam. Stopped, eyeballed everything, rechecked all the fluids and put 10mi on her just looping around the neighborhood. Got her back in the driveway and temps were 200F at the rear of the head, 180F at the front. 145F in the upper hose and 130F at the radiator cap. And...my moto-meter isn't working...:confused: Looks like that took care of the problem! At least I now have a head gasket in reserve (and studs, nuts, etc.). :D |
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Living here in the South, I may add a temp gauge for summer driving. I just would like to keep the dash uncluttered as much as possible. |
Re: Time for a head gasket... I would retest the torque on the head bolts after the engines completely cold.
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oops, I was going to post a picture but looks like Flickr is down. Edit: Flickr back up. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...92e6d850a9.jpg |
Re: Time for a head gasket... The modern motometers measure the steam temperature. If you see red it is way too hot. The antique ones were calibrated differently and were a better indicator of the actual coolant temperature.
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