Rear hub removal blues
 

One of my rear brakes on the '38 started dragging/not releasing all the way. I dedided to tackle it today since it is a little less humid. I had bought a Mitchell puller several years ago when I bought the car and used it to pull the drums and service the bearings. It worked fine then. Today I kept tightening it without the hub moving when I discovered this. I don't know what to do now. I've been looking for a KR Wilson knock-off and don't see any for sale. At least the groove in the hub doesn't appear to be damaged. Any thoughts?

Re: Rear hub removal blues
 

Vintage Precision makes a very good "knock off" no pun intended!

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https://vintageprecision.com/product...ers/index.html
They list for $200 on their website……Money well spent I think………Mark

Re: Rear hub removal blues
 

Looks like you may have goofed up the threads too, note the nut sitting crooked.

They make a thread chaser for this, it opens up so you start from the inside.

I may have a pic

Re: Rear hub removal blues
 

From your picture, I can't tell exactly what you've got going on there, but it does appear that your hub has come loose from the axle a fraction of an inch. If that's the case, and you have previously released the parking brake, loosened the shoe adjustment all the way, and released the brake fluid (I see that you have juice brakes), then perhaps your drum has an internal worn ridge upon which the shoe is hung up, or when the shoes were installed, the retainer clips were left off, allowing the shoe to bind. Upon removal of the tool you have installed, and then knocking the hub with a mallet while wiggling it around, you may get lucky if the hub is actually released from the axle. If it isn't, then the KRW type tool is the only way to go. All failing and your shoes are hung up, the red wrench will be the tool of last resort.

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V8 club member had the top inner edge of the key bite into his drum and jam-had to destroy the hub. Recommend that the top inner edge of the key be rounded off.. Newc

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That could happen if the key was too long in the first place, jamming itself up the ramp by tightening the axle nut. It should never become a problem if the key is the correct length and installed properly.

Re: Rear hub removal blues
 

Thanks for directing me to Vintage Precision, I didn't remember that name.

The hub hasn't moved. I released the brake adjustment and the drum turns free. Parking brake cable is free and loose. The brake line was loosened to relieve any pressure.

cas3, The nut isn't crooked, the washer is crooked against the hub making it look that way.

When I get a good puller, would a little heat on the area over the axle be harmful? Would that be too close to the seal?

Releasing the adjustment stopped the dragging but I was trying to get to the brakes to understand why it wasn't releasing all the way to begin with. I might put the wheel back on and adjust the brake and drive it to see what happens.

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Did you "strike the center boss with a hammer" to break the hub loose? That's what the instructions for that puller reads.

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I did hit it soundly with a 2 pound hammer, but I didn't put the 8 pounder on it. I was concerned about ruining the axle end.

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It's been a while, but I think I used a 3lb short handle sledge hammer and a good whack.

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heat?? Newc

Re: Rear hub removal blues
 

Years ago, I bought a repro KRW rear hub puller. That tool works like a dream; it's one of my favorite tools. I had heard they stopped making them, they were beautifully made and came in a little wooden case. I'm lucky to have it even if it is a repro. I've never seen an original one for sale. I had a '33 1 1/2-ton truck that takes that same style of puller, only larger. I never did get the rear drums off of that truck. I sold it and bought a project '34 1 1/2 truck, in 1934 they changed the axles on the big trucks, there just like a modern 3/4 to 1 ton truck with floater axles and are really easy to take out to get the drums off.

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I have the kr reproduction puller. I tighten to what seems maximum and sometimes it will pop off after sitting for a while. If not I use a oxygen/aceta
torch until it comes loose. hammer on end helps too.

I would never press on a nut threaded on. The threads take all the force.
Puller is made to center on axle.

John

Re: Rear hub removal blues
 

I am not disputing what you said John,---- But I remember that the Vintage Precision puller directions tell you to back off the threaded cap 1/2 turn. I do not think the KR Wilson reproduction says to do that. I do not know what the original Winfield direction said. The axle threads on a Ford are in excess of grade 8 according to the torque specs allowed. If the protective cap covers enough threads there is probably no damage to them. IMHO. I made my own puller and I back off my thread cap 1 flat or 1/6th turn.

Re: Rear hub removal blues
 

There is an axle puller for sale on the Early Ford website right now, I think it is the Vintage Precision model.

I have used a club member’s Winfield hub puller and the cap is not threaded, it just slips over the end of the axle.

Good luck with your project.

Re: Rear hub removal blues
 

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. I have emailed the seller of the Vintage Precision puller. I also googled for instructions on removing an early ford hub and it suggested mild heat if needed. i don't know where Google got its information. I understand the concern about distorting the threads. The Vintage Precision instructins say to screw the thrust plate nut on until it bottoms out and then back off 1/2 turn, so it sounds like it uses the threads.

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Always jack up the other side wheel off the ground

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Both rear wheels are on jackstands.
I have tension on it so the tool is just starting to bend. I'll leave it until tomorrow. If it doesn't give up, I'll add a modest amount of heat.

I've bought the tool from the ad on EV8, but I have to send the money and then get it shiopped here. It will be a while.

Re: Rear hub removal blues
 

The above advice would apply if using an impact method, but has no benefit with a KRW type tool. Proper method would require no more than a rap with a
Hammer, if at all.
With regard to the tool’s axle nut, the instruction to back off by ½ thread doesn’t make sense to me. In my opinion (I’ve used this method many times), the threads should not be put at risk of distortion, rather, should accept equal pressure with the axle’s end, which would be at the point of initial contact, not even finger tight.

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For the axle nut; I welded a round piece of 1/4 steel to a 5/8-18 nut. Run it up snug on the axle threads so the puller bolt acts on the end of the axle, not the threads.

Not mine in the picture; but the same idea.

Re: Rear hub removal blues
 

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...4&d=1760357334

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...5&d=1760357334

Re: Rear hub removal blues
 

Zeke 3's suggestion is the best. Avoids and chance of thread damage.

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Check with your local club and see if they have a puller to loan.

Charlie Stephens

Re: Rear hub removal blues
 

Well, I got it off without breaking anything. For inquiring minds, I'll tell you what worked for me. I put the puller back on the hub with the bent part turned inwards. I tightened it until the bent part was back straight again and left it overnight. It was still tight today, so I removed it and used an 8# sledge hammer to back up a 2# hammer and struck the tapered area of the hub all around. I put the puller back on and tightened it until it started to bend. One lick on the puller boss at the axle end and it popped loose.

Thank you all for your helpful comments. I have ordered the Vintage Precision puller for the next time.

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This thread (not that type of thread) shows a bent axle thread. I wonder if it was caused by a poor or incorrect puller?

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=353107

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I purchased a hub tool from 3rd generation, and it worked just fine.

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With all due respect to Michael, his Economy Hub Puller, in my opinion, looks to be very sensitive to position correctly without experiencing bad results. The KRW type on the other hand, is all but fail-safe. I may be wrong in my opinion, but then, I always went for the best that money could buy.

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The Vintage Precision tool should be in every Early Ford owner's tool box or a good friend's tool box. It is very, very well made and I have not encountered a drum it will not remove. Highly recommended

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Thanks for sharing your experience with it. I hope my experience is like yours.

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If I was having this issue, I'd use some heat all around the tapered area of the hub (like a good map torch) - my bet is that the expansion would make the pulling a lot easier.

Re: Rear hub removal blues
 

Second that

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Not arguing, but why?

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Because it provides a little slack in the assembly so the force of the hit does not stop when the axle gear crashes into the spider gears