Clutch adjustment problem
 

I just finished a complete clutch overhaul with a new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing etc.

With everything together I'm finding that I cannot get the clutch adjusting mechanism to reach from the clutch pedal to the actuating lever that comes out from the bell housing.

The throwout bearing appears to be right up against the pressure plate.

Am I missing something that has to do with the transmission gearing (I have the shift tower off of the transmission.

Can someone tell me what I may me missing.

I appreaciate whatever help you can give to me.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

I have had this problem: There is a fork that pushes on the housing for the throwout bearing. If the fork is not seated properly in the housing it can cause the problem you are describing.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

I just looked at your pictures closely. Like nkaminar said, check to make sure the forks are in the throwout bearing carrier slots correctly. I also see you have the new style clutch shaft arm on there, which is longer than the stock arm by about half an inch. When installed properly, the arm should be sticking almost straight back, like toward the back of the car, when the throwout bearing is up against the pressure plate fingers. When you pull the clutch pedal back as far as it will go, the trunnion should reach that arm, no problem. If not, a couple options-

1- Get longer threaded trunnion.
2- Readjust the pressure plate fingers (I did a video showing how).

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

The fork inside the bell housing that pushes the thrust bearing against the pressure plate may not be seated in the correct location on the bearing. There is a step and if you are on the wrong place, what you describe is possible. A peek through the inspection cover will reveal all.
I'll let you work out how I come to know that.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...p;d=1755562846

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...p;d=1755562846

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

Looks like the wrong clutch arm to me or its aftermarket, also you will need to lift up the lever because the throwout bearing spring is holding the bearing all the way back so you need to use channel locks to lift the lever because of the spring pressure and insert pin

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

Charlie said the throw out bearing is right up against the pressure plate now, so the lever cannot be rotated enough to engage the pin. As stated by others, the fork may not be seated properly in the throw out bearing carrier (hub).

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

Are the pressure plate fingers adjusted correctly? Looks like the throwout bearing is too far back to me.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

Charlie - these photos show position of clutch fork arm with pedal back and throwout bearing held against it’s sleeve by bearing return spring.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

Thanks very much to all that responded to my problem with the clutch adjusting mechanism that I'm having.

I've looked over things that have been suggested.

The fork arm appears to be positioned and seated properly.

I was extremely careful when I adjusted the pressure plate fingers during its installation.

After scratching my head, I've decided to lengthen the trunnion (as the MAFCA Technical Director suggested) and see how that works.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

You shouldn't have to do that. I am running the same londer clutch arm with no problems. My adjustment is in the middle. There has to be something amiss.

I can't believe someone suggested to lengthen the rod. That is just a bandaid IMO.

Left field, but is the disk installed the correct way? You should be able to tell by looking in the inspection cover.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

In your first two photos, it doesn't look to me as though the clutch pedal has been pulled all the way to the back of its travel. Either tie it there or have a helper hold the pedal in its rearmost position. Then line up the trunnion hole with the clutch release arm.
I always have to use a wooden block underneath the clutch arm and jack it up so that the clevis hole will line up with the clutch release arm hole for the clevis pin to be inserted. You cannot do this by hand unless the trunnion is way out too far. The higher up the trunion is screwed into the threaded trunnion nut, the higher up you will have to jack up the release arm. If you have run out of threads on the trunnion shaft, something is wrong with the clutch adjustment or the clutch fingers have collapsed.
Marshall

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

Snyder's has a tool to help turn the clutch arm into position, https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...9059&cat=41753 but I use the replacement trunion that does not need to be removed to adjust the clutch. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...9058&cat=41664

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

OK, now that the fork not sitting correctly in the throwout bearing housing has been eliminated, the remaining question is the clutch fingers. I would like to know how California Charlie adjusted them. Was it done on a bench or with the pressure plate and clutch disk mounted on the flywheel? Because of the leverage system, little bit of difference there could have a big effect on where the lever ends up.

The exact distance of the fingers from the reference plane is not important but they all must be adjusted to be equal within 0.002. So the fingers could be re adjusted closer to the flywheel.

Otherwise, double check everything else. Are the pivot point ends of the clutch pressure plate fingers in the right position? The look funny to me in the photo like they are in the wrong position.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

Ditto on “ I always have to use a wooden block underneath the clutch arm and jack it up so that the clevis hole will line up with the clutch release arm hole for the clevis pin to be inserted”. The return spring on the clutch throw out bearing is stronger than I am laying under the car.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

1. My car is not a show car so I do not worry about paint on lever.

I use a large pair of Vise Grips on the part of lever where the shaft goes through (near the pin). If Vice Grip leverage is not long enough I have used a piece of EMT (Electric Metallic Tube) Conduit pipe to extent the leverage.

2. I do not remember ever installing the clutch release FORK backwards (Maybe I just do not remember) BUT:

After looking at a working clutch throw-out bearing with flywheel and flywheel housing removed:


If the clutch release FORK is installed backwards on the shaft, the FORK is moved forward about 3/8ths inch or so and the angle on the fork where it pushes the throw-out bearing carrier is changed also.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

After another look at the photos, I think Marshall is on the money. I hold the pedal up with an old octo strap around it and up to the steering wheel.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

UPDATE:

I put a jack, with a piece of wood, underneath the clutch actuating arm coming out from the bell housing.

As I was using the jack to lift the actuator arm I looked through the open bell housing inspection area to see what was happening.

Before I wss able to reach the point of inserting the clevis pin in the trunnion the pilot bearing stared to firmly press against the pressure plate fingers.

The fork rounded part is pushing against the pilot bearing and not the flat part. Has the fork been correcrtly installed? Does it need tgo be reversed?

If the fork positioning is okay, should I just continue to use the jack to get to the point where I can insert the clevis pin into the trunnion?

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

MORE UPDATE:

Looking at the actuating lever coming out freom the bell housing from above, it is installed in a downward position. Should it be rotated and turned updward? Is this what my whole problem issue is all about?

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

Here is a picture of mine. I hope it helps..

Did you replace the clutch shaft or any other parts besides the clutch, pp and bearing?

Was it working before?

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

This video will show you EXACTLY what it should all look like. Forward to the 39 minute mark and go from there- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsyCPauO4P0

There is also a detailed description and demonstration of what the "freeplay" should look like and will visually show you how much it should have.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

Paul's video is good but it did not show how the fork engages with the throwout bearing housing. Charlie, Your lever, as you say, is almost straight down and should be horizontal. I need to a photo of how the fork is situated where it engages the housing. I also need a detailed description of how you adjusted the fingers. There is something wrong between the lever and the pressure plate. You should not need a jack to push the lever up to engage the pin. Paul's video clearly shows how it goes together with just using his fingers.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

Once again thanking everyone for their input and helpful pictures to the problem issue that I have with my clutch adjusting mechanism.

I may have finally, and i do mean finally found, what the issue is.

Looking at 1955cj5 photo that he sent.

I do think my problem is with the shaft that is coming out from the bell housing where the adjustment lever attaches to.

I believe the problem issue I'm having is with the shaft hole positioning. 1955cj5 photo shows the actuating lever being pinned at a 12 o'clock position.

The shaft coming out from my Bell Housing has its pin hole at a 2 o'clock position.

Attaching, pinning, the clutch actuating lever at the 2 0'clock positioning point on the shaft lowers the actuating lever down to where the trunnion can't reach.

I believe the shaft hole positioning is the problem.

At this point in time I believe I had two options without pulling the Bell Housing apart and replacing that shaft. I really don't want to do that.

I can try to fill the current shaft pin hole and then try to drill a straight hole at the 12 o'clock positioning, or work with what I have and extend the trunnion and see how that goes. My preferance is to extend the trunnion.

Whatcha think guys? I don't remember who I bought the new Bell Housing Shafts from.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

1955cj5 Where did you get your actuating lever???

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

What year is your car? The shaft 1955cj5 shows in his picture is for an early model, that is keyed. The later ones don't have the key. It appears by your pictures you have the later one with no key?? They are not interchangeable.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

I think though the lever is keyed, the shaft that I used is not, it is a new replacement.

There were different shafts, one for the AA and one for the A, they were not interchangeable.
But that alone may not explain the problem you have.

If the internals are correct, i.e. the fork and throw-out carrier, you could drill the lever to reposition it.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

It was a while ago....10 years or so, but I'll look.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

Another view of the linkage...

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

Bert's Model A Center.

It was listed as an A77777 clutch release shaft arm, original. Bought in 2015..

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

Thanks 1955cj5 for the photo. Where did you purchase your clutch release lever?

It appears the shaft that comes out of the Bell Housing, and what the clutch release lever attaches to, is drilled incorrectly.

Front what photo's I've seen the shaft hole the pin inserts to hold the clutch release level is at a 12 o'clock shaft position. The shaft coming out of my Bell Housing is at a 2 o'clock position which positions the clutch release lever so low the trunnion can't reach.

At this point in time my options are:

1. Comletely disassemble the Bell Housing and replace the clutch release lever shaft.
2. Plug the shaft hole that is currenlty in a 2 o'clock position and try to drill a new straight 12 o'clock hole without removing the Bell Housing etc.
3. Extend the trunnion and see how that works.

I'm currently leaning towards trying #3.

I don't recall the vendor I used to purchase the Bell Housing shafts.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

If I were you I would not bother trying to plug the hole in the shaft, nor would I try to drill a new hole in the shaft.

I would position the clutch release lever in the correct position and drill the release lever to align with the existing hole in the shaft. You could remove the release lever retaining pin and then attach the trunnion to align the lever before drilling.

You need to make sure that there is enough free play in the linkage, so that your throw-out bearing is not in contact with the PP fingers when the clutch pedal is fully released.

If the bearing turns with the PP all the time, it will not last very long.

A better picture of the throw-out bearing, carrier and fork will help determine what is at fault here....

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

I think this hinges around how the pressure plate fingers were adjusted . I bolt up the pressure plate to a good flywheel ( face not machined) with a new good quality disc installed then adjust finger depth if needed . Most times no adjustment is needed the factory staked adjusters are just fine . This is with good used pressure plates with acceptable even finger wear . I have a whole stack of them picked up from many swap meets worth looking out for (trust me ) I did try a new repro but it was junk and would not adjust so it went back to the vendor .

John in partly cloudt warm Suffolk County England .

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

Very unlikely that the shaft was drilled incorrectly. Most likely something internal is not right. Re drilling the shaft or lever is a bandaid and does not address the root cause.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

I agree. Or lengthening the rod.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

was the orig shaft replaced or is it the orig shaft ?

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

We really need more information, and pictures.

Drilling is certainly a band-aid and is really unlikely to work.

Something is wrong inside, either the PP fingers are incorrectly set, or the fork is in backwards, or incorrect parts.

The original poster needs to provide more information.

Until then, it's a guessing game.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

Did you have to drill out the hole in the arm? If memory serves me, the keyed arm and shaft used a smaller pin.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

Well, it was 10 years ago!

But, I see I did order the pins, shaft, fork and release arm at the same time from Bert's. Pins were the only ones available from Bert's at the time.

I might have drilled the arm....that is sort of a non-event when working with reproduction parts and making them fit....

My ccpu had an AA 4-speed when we bought it, so I needed to replace nearly everything to convert it back to a 3-speed.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

You may have sheared the pin or partially sheared the pin on the clutch throw out bearing fork on my truck that pin sheared and I slowly lost all pedal travel and as I readjusted ITIT continued to lose all pedal travel until it completely sheared unfortunately if this is the case you will need to remove the bell housing to fix it.

Re: Clutch adjustment problem
 

This is what I was referring to from the Service Bulletins.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...045eba72_z.jpg