Mercury Down
 

I found at least part of the problem. That intermittent dragging sensation was being caused by the right rear brake and the drum was pretty hot when I got back from a slow and short run this evening. Found the axle bearing worn right out. In fact it came out in pieces as I pulled the axle. Replaced the left side a few years ago with parts from C&G Ford which worked well. Only problem now is I have a car show in ten days and doubt I can get parts from there in time to be mobile. I'm considering maybe pull an axle from the 53 and run with that for short term. Are left and right axles interchangeable? Reason I ask is that the 53 is stored with the right side against the wall and no room to pull it without major re-arranging.

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Looking at a 1949-1953 Mercury Chassis Catalogue, it shows 2 axles -- same part number.

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Something special about that bearing? Usually, available at any local parts house. Ten days shouldn't be a problem. I'm a little 'out in the sticks', too. Parts get here very quickly.
Oh, per post 2, just pull the LEFT axle from the 53.

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I guess the special part on this bearing is that it comes with a new spacer in case you break the old one getting it off. Requires heat.

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Thanks for the comments and replies. And the photo enlargements Pete Hoovie. I recorded some of the details for future reference. Referring back to past videos I see I replaced the left side bearing in 2019.
https://youtu.be/PCQAYasq7jI

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The reason for a new spacer is that most people find it easiest to cut that, and the bearing to get them off. A nice big bearing splitter and a press is the proper method, but a good slice with the wizz wheel and a big whack from a cold chisel and they fall off.

The new bearing and spacer can be driven on gently with an air chisel. Be careful not to slip off and hit the seal face on the bearing like some people do...Who, Me?

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As I recall it the guy that worked on my last one used a torch to heat the spacer for removal. Same for installing the new one.

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"the guy that worked on my last one"....with my method you do it at home in about 10 minutes. Lots of youtube videos on it, search 9" ford axle bearing.

If you had a part # I would think that bearing is very common, used on lots of axles for decades. Good luck Ralph, we are all pullin for ya

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The factory bearing part number is 8A-1225-A 2-13/16" O.D. x 1-3/8" I.D. the retainer is 8A-1180 1-31/32" O.D.

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Ralph send a message to barnfind08 he may have an nos bearing, lots better than the china ones.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/member.php?u=104

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Nothing worse than the sound of a wheel bearing heading “south”…especially when you have some place to go.

Similar to your experience, I needed to get my 2 rear bearings changed before traveling just over 1,800 miles & back to Springfield, IL in June.

Guys did a great job and we made it there & back without any problems.

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Got one ordered from C&G Ford for a very reasonable price but the shipping is going to push the total to over $80. Still better than local Napa price Not sure if that was U.S. or cdn dollars. Worked on the 53 axle this morning and found that axle is tight. So either the bearing is good or it is rusted in place so bad that I can't pull it.

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According to my local parts house, the bearing should be no problem. I was hoping he would say something like 'same as 9-inch', or same as 44. But, no. Anyway, my guy would prefer to see the number on the old bearing, and go from there. Couple choices, per his listing. And, there is a possibility of getting rid of the ball bearing, replaced by a 'sort-of' taper. My guy doesn't use China bearings for axles.
I'm with Eric, above.... I've changed these, always in pairs, prior to a trip. I once had the experience of an axle bearing failure, and the vehicle did not have body panels like Ralph's Mercury. So, the wheel, drum, axle, exited, and the whole assembly crossed the highway, and went over an embankment and down a drop-off on the other side of the highway. My vehicle rode to a stop, sliding on the backing plate. Not good. And, as luck would have it, there was a highway patrolman following, directly behind me. (He was very helpful.)

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The axle on the parts Mercury has proven to be very difficult. In fact it has not moved yet in spite of putting heavy pulling force on it with a cable winch and much hammering. Beginning to wonder if the bearing will be any good if I ever do get the axle out. i've left it sitting under pressure for the night. Well soaked in penetrating (Deep Creep) oil.

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Have you got a slide hammer?

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Not really the best idea to heat the bearing retainer to install.

It doesn't necessarily "shrink" to the same tightness as when pressed on cold.

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Agree. When steel is heated, it expands. When it cools, it shrinks to a smaller size than you started with. Like using heat to shrink a bump on sheet metal. heat it up...quick cool it with water ( or snow in the land of 10,000 mosquito swamps) and it will shrink past the point you started and take out the bump

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That picture in post # 20 looks like it’s pulling off center, I believe the pressure should be equal to all sides to get it to release.

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Yes you are right but I tried the easiest method first thinking it would come apart as easy as the ones on the 52. Its like this one is welded together.

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In olden times, we hooked a chain to one lug stud, looped it thru the removed tire, hooked the other end to another stud, and then swung the tire which acted as a slide hammer.

Was younger, stronger, and tool poorer back then.

Now-a-days, I have a slide hammer with a couple different flange adapters.

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In my opinion, this is the tool for the job. I can't imagine doing the job without this tool....

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I agree but I hate to borrow tools almost as much as I hate to buy one to only use it once. I'm considering Rich B's method above because all I have tried so far results in no movement.

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Be carful just bolting a chain on there Ralph, its easy to bend one of the studs

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Maybe check and see if your local parts store has a tool rental program.

O'Reilly's here has the flange and slide hammer for free rental.

If you are concerned with the studs; cut a couple chunks of 1/4 x 2 angle and drill both legs. Bolt one leg tightly to the flange and the chain to the other repeat on another stud and go to town.

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Princess auto, the Napa of Canada, no slide hammer?

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Yes, and I just found out my brother has one so I'll be borrowing that one to try out. I'm a little doubtful if that bearing will come out in one piece considering how hard it is stuck in there but we shall see.