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Woody top replacement I unfortunately have to replace the top material on my 1938 woody because it tore out across the windshield. I can’t seem to find any guidance on how to replace this top. Do I start pinning it down on the front, rear, or one of the sides first? Also where is the most reputable place to get the long grain cobra top material and is the cotton looking backing you can see inside the car something that comes on the material or do I have to source that also.
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Re: Woody top replacement Classtique Upholstery is a good source for the cobra long grain. About $45 a yard on their web site. www.classtiqueupholstery.com
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Re: Woody top replacement Quote:
Call or E-mail - Classtique Upholstery is pleased to serve you! ** International orders are not returnable. https://www.classtiqueupholstery.com/images/mclogo.gifhttps://www.classtiqueupholstery.com...s/visalogo.gifhttps://www.classtiqueupholstery.com...s/discover.png Phone: +1 651.484.9022 Toll Free: US/CA 800.208.9032 Classtique Upholstery, Inc. 30350 Akerson St. Lindstrom, MN 55045 [email protected] |
Re: Woody top replacement 1 Attachment(s)
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PULL the material TIGHT as you staple. I get about 1' tacked down on each long side then place a few staples on each of the short sides. Again, do a few near the center at both the front and the back. While you place the staples always pull the material tight while being certain you're not distorting it. You want the grain to run "straight" and if you pull too much in one direction, it'll get a wavy appearance. Work your way around the roof. A few more staples on the left, then a few on the right, a few in the front and then a few in the back. It does take some practice to do this task well. Leave the four corners until last. I'd suggest you stay away from the corners until you are ready to trim them maybe 6" or so. The corners, especially the rear corners are a total PITA to produce a beautiful appearance. Go slow, think it through and don't staple until you are confident. A couple of other tips... Use either a pneumatic stapler or an electric stapler. Stainless staples. Allow the material to lay atop your car for at least a few days. It needs to relax after being rolled up. Install the top on a hot day in the sun. I strongly suggest you get the top done sans the corners, allow it to sit overnight and only then start to tackle the corners. Don't laugh but a heat gun, once the top and corners are installed, is a great tool to tighten up any areas that are not taut. |
Re: Woody top replacement I would suggest doing it out in the sun, let it expand and soften the material a little bit, makes it a little more supple and easier to work, THEN once installed and in the garage, it will contract and/or shrink tight.
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Re: Woody top replacement X 3 in the hot sun.
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Re: Woody top replacement Thanks for the help. Kube is the picture you attached show a 38 because the front of my top has a different piece across the top to the windshield that holds the material. Mine has an aluminum piece that screws in the center with a plastic piece of trim the snaps around it.
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Re: Woody top replacement Also is the top material available in the original brown color or do I have to go with black?
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That "plastic piece of trim that snaps around it" does not sound correct to me. I think I'd do some research before you proceed. You are about to embark a rather large project. It would be a shame if it was incorrect when you finished. |
Re: Woody top replacement I will get a picture tomorrow to show you what it is. It’s never seemed right to me but my grandpa who owned the car since 68 had it restored and was big on things being correct.
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I don't believe you will find the brown material. I'd restored that '39 about ten years ago and even then, there was no brown to be had. I painted mine. |
Re: Woody top replacement If you only find black and choose to paint it, I have had really good and lasting results on vinyl seats with the aerosol vinyl paint from napa stores. When I first used it 30 years ago I thought it was just a 'band aid' to last a year or so. Ten years later as a dd, it had gradually worn away on the obvious wear areas, but never a flaking or peeling issue.
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Re: Woody top replacement 1 Attachment(s)
Here is the picture of what is currently on the car. Sorry I got busy and just got a chance to take a picture.
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Re: Woody top replacement 1 Attachment(s)
While I'm sure your grandpa wanted the best for his car, his top guy fell a bit short on the trim-out. I know an old hillbilly that did this one with a firestone rubber pond liner for the roof material and a couple of of RV gutters, followed up with a length of mild steel strap across the header. It's not correct by any means, but it appears that he at least made an attempt to have all 3 pieces come together in a workmanlike manner....(He should have countersunk those screws and used oval heads though).
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As a side note of sorts, NO phillips head screws anywhere on a 1938 Ford. Not a one... |
Re: Woody top replacement 2 Attachment(s)
Pete, perhaps you might enlarge these two so the original poster has a better view of what his car should appear as.
Thanks... |
Re: Woody top replacement Is there anywhere I could find an original piece of trim for the front of the windshield from someone reputable. I've been scammed twice on this site while looking for parts. Most recently a couple weeks ago by someone claiming to have parts I put a post looking for.
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Re: Woody top replacement Quote:
In the long run, they were a bargain. Rest assured, you will NOT find "good used" parts. The front piece was some sort of soft metal and pretty much rotted away through the years. The reproduction appeared as an exact match but was made from mild steel. |
Re: Woody top replacement Treehouse woods?
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Re: Woody top replacement 38 woody
I have a feeling that front "trim' on your car MIGHT actually be the correct item HOWEVER the "plastic" that you indicate "snaps in" may be a subpar substitue that is causing the confusion. If you carefully remove that "plastic" (only) we can better determine if that front trim is correct assuming I am correct, and IF you have the correct part, you need to treat that item "like grandma" because . IF what you have is correct, it is irreplacable. the plastic strip only fills the center of the trim and covers the nail / screw heads on the trim that goes between the steel cowl and the roof material. when you remove the top material (the vynil) this part must be removed along with 100's of screws / nails that hold this entire affiar together.. the "black plastic trim" on your car (when removed) will expose those fasteners. |
Re: Woody top replacement When I did the top on my 40 wagon in 2013, like others have said, i let the black (only color available) sit on the top for a while, rolled out the car on a day that was to reach 90, had helpers to pull across from each other tacking the front but not driving the tacks home, pulling from the back and temporarily tacking after the first stretch. Then after it sitting in the sun, working the sides with helper working a foot at at time, pull the tacks and stretch it some more. It will stretch a lot. Like Kube said final fasteners should be stainless with a well adjusted tool to not drive through the soft material. Again, rear corners last. My 40 has steel rain gutters that were formed to the top outside stringers and when top was attached, the rain gutters were screwed on using #4 screws with square drive to go into the new maple. Only after you are staisfied with it all, trim the excess off the bottom.
SEM makes a vinyl dye you can spray on the top to make it brown. You need to THOROUGHLY CLEAN THE BLACK VINYL AS PER SEM instructions, mask off the whole car and shoot the top. Another Barn member sent me a 1 sq inch of original brown top to match. When I did mine, brown and short grain were discontinued. I had looked at Nick Alexander's original 40 woodie at a National meet as a guide. I have not lost any points on the top the times I had it judged. Good luck, it is not a trivial task. |
Re: Woody top replacement One of our RG members was having correct gutters made to his 40 deluxe woodie. When I found out about this, I called the guy making them and prepaid for another set since he had a correct car to form them to. The car being used has multiple times scored above 995 on EFV8 concourse judging. This was a long time ago as I got my gutters years before I actually needed them as I knew how big a problem it would be to make them. The piece across the front was included for the $1650 price. I had these made in maybe 2001 or so and were made somewhere in Oregon. They are very long for a 40 as they come down the A pillar. I had heard the person who made them passed away maybe a year after he made my set. I finished my car in 2014.
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Re: Woody top replacement Thanks for all the help. I have taken the plastic off the front trim and it is a modern aluminum piece. Its not correct but it held that top for a lot of years so I will probably just reuse it.
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