Clutch Replacement
 

Good morning to everyone here at the 'Barn'. This may have been hashed out before but I am about to undertake a project in the spring (once winter is over) that involves replacing the clutch, pressure plate and throw-out bearing on my '29.

I do not have access to a lift, and will be performing this task in my driveway. I have heard horror stories about the rear leaf spring and I like being around to drive my 'A'. My question is, how do I do this without that spring coming to get me, and just what is involved in getting this task done. Also, if I have gone this far to move the axle and torque tube, should I consider replacing the rear spring? (I assume it is 100 years old).

Thanks to all in helping me.

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

I am in the middle of just that same task. I decided it would be easier to pull the engine, rather than disconnect the rear end. I am glad I did. All I needed was a cherry picker and a good friend to help. Had to pull the radiator, headlight bar, and hood.
Ed

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

how hard is it to yank the engine from these classics? and use an engine hoist from Hobo Freight? and if I have the engine out, is there anything I should do to it while it is out?

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

I always go in the back door. I leave the rear spring in the car. Not much it can do if still bolted to the frame. Also, I can inspect the rear shackles at this time. I have found broken shackles in the past.

I also replaced the throw bearing, pilot bearing, and pedal bushings while I was in there.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...750e694a_z.jpg

I just installed a Mitchell Synchro Transmission by myself, so it can be done, but it helps to call a friend.

If you are using a stock Model A disk, I recommend the one Bratton's carries. https://www.brattons.com/CLUTCH-DISC/productinfo/11400/ It has the incapsulated springs. Others do not. I have seen these springs come out.



https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...2&d=1734538308

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

ok, so sounds like leaving the spring in the car and pulling the axle back is the best approach. I did get my Disk, and Pressure Plate, Throw-Out from Snyders. Mine has the springs in as well. Looks just like the Bratton's one

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...9060&cat=41664

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/c...cts/A-7550.jpg

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

That's not the disk you want, does not have the captured springs as in post #4. You want the one like Bert's sells.
https://modelastore.com/transmission...roduct_id=3729

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

crap, and I have that and the pressure plate already :-(

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

Don't we need to remind "canton" that the "rear approach" will necessate the use of a spring spreader?
Joe B

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

Yup. And it’s been my experience that when using the spring spreader, when you think you have it extended far enough, you don’t. Keep going, hard as it may be, until you can slip both shackles in with little effort.

As far as replacing the spring, there are far fewer suppliers now that A-Springs has thrown in the towel. Eaton Detroit has springs, check with them on lead time. Do consider measuring up the spring and if it’s out of spec then maybe replace, maybe rebuild. You can disassemble, clean, paint (some of us use graphite paint) and reassemble.

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

ok I will get a spreader ordered up and delivered. Merry Christmas to me LOL!

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

never mind

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

Here is the one from Snyders (my Go-To place as it is just down the road a bit in Ohio). Is this the right one to get?

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/c...cts/A-5302.jpg

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

Hello, on a Model A if having to change out clutch , throw out bearing and pressure plate , I. Removed the engine with a portable crane , the radiator and shell , headlight bar and wires have to be removed, but most of work can be done without crawling underneath car except the front end raduis ball will need to be detached from bell house. Either way you can get the job done. Good luck.

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

yes

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

I have replaced the clutch both ways. I vote for pulling the engine.

I would recommend you send back the clutch disk and pressure plate. The new pressure plates are not always the best quality.

I would then order same from Burt's. They have the best clutch disk. They also have a pressure plate rebuilder. He does an excellent job. He also sets the fingers for you so all you have to do is bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel.

The spring spreader lists for $100 plus tax. That is expensive if you only have it for a one time use...


JMO

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

I vote for pulling the engine. Unless you have issues with the rear shackles or spring or differential. Before I got my cherry picker from Harbor Freight, I would use a frame made with 2X4's and a come along. Much easier with the right tool.

You can pull the engine over the headlight bar but it has to go higher. If you do remove the bar, it is easier to remove and re install if you loosen the mounting bolts for the fender supports, including the ones that go into the fenders.

When I was 16 I would lift out the engine with my bare hands, after removing everything attached to the engine. Can't do that anymore. Also don't look good naked anymore.

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

I'll toss in my vote for pulling the rear end back to replace the clutch. I've done it both ways, and for me it seems easier and quicker to pull back the differential. To each his own; both ways will get the job done. I always remove and resurface the flywheel and install a new pilot bearing when doing a clutch. It's a bit tricky removing and replacing that heavy item with the engine in the car. Definitely helps to have another set of hands available.

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

I've always told newbies that it is a 50-50 toss up whether to pull the engine or the rear end. The posts so far confirm that.
I agree you should change over that clutch plate. I have seen what happens when a spring escapes - not pretty.
A couple of mates with experience will make this job go sooo much easier. Beer is cheap!

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

The simple answer is ..................... Do the job whichever way will be SAFEST for you. Either way it's not a 10 minute operation to do it right. You'll be doing this on your driveway. Is your driveway fairly level and do you have good, heavy duty jack stands to put under the chassis rails to get the rearend out and back in without the car falling on you?

Do you plan to have an able bodied helper who knows at least as much as you do about tackling this type of job? If the answer is NO, think twice about how you can change that answer to YES!

There are extra tasks to perform using either method, so that might be a wash. In my book, the most important part of this job is SAFETY. BTW, $100+ for the spring spreader might seem like a large expenditure to some for a one time use. After using several different homemade spreaders for years before buying the one you have pictured, I can tell you I've never looked back after this purchase. One time use or not, this is well worth the money.

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

I have done it both ways, but when installing the engine back in the car I needed help to hold the engine straight to go back into the rear engine mounts. I hang the engine from my cherry picker from the spark plug holes and the engine won't hang straight so to install the engine back in myself I made a flat plate that bolts to the water outlet on the side of the engine, I bolted a chain to it with a turnbuckle to hook into my lifting chain on the cherry picker. The turnbuckle let me adjust the engine so it hangs straight and will go back into the rear mounts. You might consider replacing the rear mount rubber while the engine is out. I have found these pretty brittle from age.

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

If I remove the rear end I have left the spring connected to the rearend. You want to mark the spring and the frame with a paint marker so when you install the rearend back in the car you will know that it is centered and the square head on the bolt that ties the leaves together go's back in the square hole. Also I have two 16" ford rims with no tires on that I put on the rear brake drums to get the rearend lowered so I can roll it out from under the car. Worked out good for me!

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

This is not a good idea. Doing it this way leaves the spring with high internal energy, and only a single 3/8" bolt (95 years old?) containing that energy. If that single bolt lets loose then the energy will be released catastrophically. When it's in the car the U-bolts and plates, and the weight of the car, help contain that energy, and the spring is surrounded by the cross member. If you doubt how much energy is contained in that spread spring, try spreading it to fit into the shackles. That is difficult even with a spring spreader.

I suspect that most on this forum would caution you against this practice.

Re: Clutch Replacement
 

To all, I want to thank all the comments and recommendations that have been presented here. I will return the Clutch and pressure plate back to Snyders and will get both from Bert's (model A store). I won't do anything here until I get the recommendations from the crew here at the Barn.

Besides me doing all the brakes and backing plates and king pins, this will be the most major work I have attempted on my 'A'. All help and criticism is justified. I am still a Newbie as I have only had 'Darla' since 2022.

Thank you all! it is greatly appreciated and helpful.

Dave