no spark
 

Brand new engine installed in a chassis no body. Engine cranks fine. 6.3 volts at Battery, both posts on coil and at points. Spark jumps with screwdriver from point arm to points. New coil still no spark installed another new coil still no spark. new coil wire still no spark. no spark from coil to head with just wire and no spark at any plugs. New points, condenser and coil wire. Gap on rotor and points is in spec and 3 different boats ( Distrib top). I am stumped

Re: no spark
 

Try another condenser. Even the so-called "short-proof" ones can be bad right out of the package. I experienced that this past week when I installed a new one. No spark arcing from the new coil, but the points sparked. Still, though, no start. Putting in a grungy old condenser from my ignition parts box solved the problem. The engine fired right up. The new condenser just came this week and although it's supposed to be short-proof, this one was bad.
I'm not saying a bad condenser is your problem, but it's unlikely a second condenser will also be bad.
Marshall

Re: no spark
 

I have the modern points in distributor that was not producing spark. replaced with a 2nd distributor with original points all new with same results. no spark to plugs or to top of distributor. Placed a clear cap on and no spark from rotor.

Re: no spark
 

What kind of switch do you have popout or standard on/off? is your end screwed in to far in distributor?

Re: no spark
 

standard switch and screwed cable in till would no go farther. Will back it out some and see if that makes a difference

Re: no spark
 

That could be the problem. If you screw it in too far you short out the lower plate. I put mine in just slightly past when it makes contact. Hope that's all it is!

Re: no spark
 

Backed it out 2 turns, no change

Re: no spark
 

It sounds like you have spark at points but not at cap when you hold it close to the head, is that correct? Double check the ignition switch and make sure it is working properly. I had one a few years ago that would work intermittently. Finally found it after swapping the coil and distributor and nothing changed.

Re: no spark
 

I bet the plug from the key is still screwed in too far. Don't ask why I would say this!!!

Re: no spark
 

if you screwed in to far could have bent the contact!

Re: no spark
 

I will take it all apart tomorrow and check everything again. Been working on the for the past 6 hours and will give it and me a rest and continue when I get up

Re: no spark
 

I think we've all been there at 1 time or another. Usually I have the distributor out and screw it in until it makes contact, then turn the distributor around to the proper install position. That's usually not more than 1/2 a turn. It works for me.

Re: no spark
 

Check for shorts or broken wires inside the distributor.

Here is a simple test for your ignition system.

1. Crank the engine over by hand until the points are fully open then check the gap. It should be 0.020 inch.
2. Turn on the ignition and measure the voltage at the movable point. It should be the same as you battery voltage or about 6.4 volts for a 6 volt car or about 12.7 volts for a 12 volt car.
3. Crank the engine over by hand until the points are closed. With the ignition on measure the voltage at the movable point. It should be close to zero, less than half a volt. Do not leave the ignition on for more than a couple of minutes or you may burn out the coil.

If the ignition system fails #3 then dress the points with 400 grit wet and dry paper and after that clean the grit out by sliding cardboard through the points or snapping them closed. Then try that test again.

If the ignition system fails #2 then look to see why you are not getting voltage to the points. Trace the voltage from the ignition switch or battery all the way to the points. Look for shorts or open connections or broken wires or bad components, like the ignition switch or ammeter.

Re: no spark
 

I always check continuity through the breaker circuit to make sure that the circuit is open when points are and closed with breaker closed. An Ohm meter is a person's most used tool when checking electrical systems. I also keep several condensers around that I know are functional. Another good tool is a spark lite tool to check spark from the coil. Polarity is another check that it does.

Re: no spark
 

Assuming your ignition switch is good, disconnect any accessory wiring that is connected to the ignition switch. Sometimes the best temporary solution for solving a problem like yours is to completely bypass existing ignition wiring. Run a temporary wire from the (-) pole of the battery to you ignition switch. Then run another wire from the other side of the switch to the (-) pole on the coil. Make certain the (+) wire from the coil is going to a good clean ground. If you follow the suggestions given in #10 & #13 your engine should start.

Re: no spark
 

Sounds like you have been throwing the kitchen sink at it. MUCH better to use the wiring diagram and a voltmeter and find the TROUBLE before replacing parts. Simple test, power side of coil should be battery at all times, with ignition switch ON, point side of coil should be battery when points open, turn engine slowly with crank, point side of coil should drop to 0V when points close. Keep the distributor open (so you can see the points) so you can trace back the lack of ground...Is the point arm 0V? Is the ign switch contact 0V? Its not complicated but requires methodic troubleshooting. RESIST throwing parts in, you will only introduce additional problems.

Re: no spark
 

did use the diagrams and meters to measure voltage and resistance unable to isolate the problem. The spark at the points is weak compared to what I normally see. Just to make clear this is in a chassis not a complete car but the wire harness is a Model A there are no lighting or accessories involved

Re: no spark
 

Ok, I'm reaching a little here. You said new engine, I assume freshly painted? Guys, could it be the distributor isn't grounding through the head like it should? Just trying to think outside the box a little.

Re: no spark
 

Voltage is not current. You should be getting about 4 to 5 amps through the points when they are closed. Put your multimeter on the 10 amp scale in hook it in line (in series) with either of the low voltage leads to the coil. Close the points by turning the engine over with the hand crank and read the current. Report the measurement to the group. If you are not getting the normal amount of current through the points then there is some added resistance somewhere. It may be a grounding issues as Avers said above or a bad contact somewhere. I have found that 90% of electrical problems can be traced to bad connectors or bad contacts. Everything should be bright and shinny and tight.

One other thing to check is the polarity of the coil. A minor point and probably not your problem. You can get a polarity checker from the suppliers, see https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...6303&cat=41753

Re: no spark
 

everything is new paint. will pull dist and remove paint at base. Engine has additional ground strap trans to batt ground

Re: no spark
 

These step by step "isolating roadside problems in 10 mins" procedure or hotwiring as per these attachments have helped me many times

Re: no spark
 

All good above. Bypass your switch and heavy cable. If switch is pop out unhook the heavy cable from the distributor.

With the modern distributor upper plate installed you can run a jumper from the + post of the coil, (the wire that goes to the switch) directly to the distributor. Unhook the red wire to the switch of course. If you have a ready-made switch bypass cable, use that.

Re: no spark
 

This post really scares me. I am hoping that me fresh battery will solve my problems, otherwise I am dead.

Re: no spark
 

Battery voltage on both sides of the coil, battery voltage at the points says the power is going through the switch, through the cable, through the notorious pigtail wire up to the points. A weak spark ( like a dim light bulb or slow starter) could possibly be a bad ground. Tom Wesenberg carried jumper wires with alligator clips. Attaching a jumper wire to the problematic item like the distributor, light bulb to a know good ground or back to the battery will show if it’s a bad grounding issue ! Yes you can have battery voltage at an item but because of corrosion, bad connections, broken wires the voltage will not carry a load , like a coil or light bulbs. Sometimes using a test light will find issues quicker than using a VOM. I’am thinking that paint on the head is insulating electrical the distributor ??!!

Re: no spark
 

If you have bad connections to the primary winding, you may not have sufficient current to saturate the coil. Try the hand crank to start the car. This leaves out the heavy draw of the battery.

Re: no spark
 

Ord, there is a boss on the cylinder head around the distributor hole. Clean the paint off there too.


Before removing your distributor, take and ohm reading from the point arm to a clean head nut. I've only done this once on our coupe, and it was a small reading to the right of the decimal. A small fraction of an ohm. With heavy paint you may get a high reading. The amp reading suggested above would also be revealing. (turn the ig switch off to use the ohmmeter)

Re: no spark
 

If you use a voltmeter referencing the battery ground post, you can easily find a resistive connection or resistive points etc. Use the above wiring diagram, just remember: At the coil, battery voltage on both terminals with points open. Point side needs to be at 0V when points closed. If not, trace it back to see where you have the bad connection/resistive. This is measured with the RED voltmeter lead on the BATTERY GND POST.

Re: no spark
 

update, cleaned paint off the boss on the head where dist goes, had a weak spark at points still and no spark from coil. rechecked clearences and found rotor to cap about .060. Replaced rotor and reduced gap but still no spark. Replaced the coil wire from from my driver model a and had spark. Hit carb with either and engine fired right up and ran for a couple of seconds. Found ignition switch defective but not always. new switch coming. Coil wire came from a ford V8 and I guess that the wire was the modern style and Henry didn't like it. New wire also coming. I am not there yet but getting there. I had to stop for the day to go teach a class so hopefully it should be resoved in the next 2 days.

Re: no spark
 

Sounds like you have things going in the right direction! Thanks for letting us know what you found!

Re: no spark
 

Installed new coil wire and no change. Feeling pretty frustrated and left it alone for a few days. There were 3 of us trying to get the problem sorted out. Went out today turned on the switch and had a better spark from the coil. Engine fired right up. adjusted idle and mixture ran carb dry( forgot to turn gas on). Turned gas on on and engine fires right up every time. No idea what changed. My friend stated he said a prayer to the lord last night about the engine.

All I know it runs fine now and maybe a little more potent than I expected,.080 over, over size valves, 5.5 comp and a touring cam. It sure sounds healthy!

Re: no spark
 

I think it was prayer. These engines are a pain in the ass.

Re: no spark
 

Now I lay me down to sleep.
I pray the Lord my Ford to keep.
If it should roll before I wake,
I pray the Lord to put on the brake.

Re: no spark
 

Been starting and running fine everyday. Can't wait until I get a body to put on it. It drives great but due to no body very limited road use.

Re: no spark
 

I ain't got nobody, and nobody got me. :)

Re: no spark
 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruLIkHIIuwE

you are lucky or blessed that your car runs I still can't get mine running. ASK you friend to say a prayer for my car.

Re: no spark
 

You isolation wiring is a great idea, however, how do I handle the high tension wire from the coil to the distributer cap? There is a second wire that comes along with the high tension wire that is screwed into the top plate of the distributer. What do I do with that? Leave it off?

Re: no spark
 

Frank, you say another wire follows the high tension lead from the coil to the upper plate??? I don't believe there is such a wire on a stock Model A setup.

If one end is screwed to the upper plate, that is a ground. Where is the other end attached?

Pics of your battery and its connections, your junction box etc. would help.

Re: no spark
 

I have a model b engine 1933

Re: no spark
 

Her is a wiring diagram of my engines electrical system

Re: no spark
 

In the diagram, the item called "circuit breaker" (red Arrow) is the ignition points. Both it and the condenser are inside the distributor.
HTH.