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Rebuilding my Flathead random questions I am rebuilding my first Flathead. Please don’t tell me to leave it up to the pros. That's boring and there are none around me. Anyway, below are the specs and my first question as I start to put this together. I will use this thread for the random questions I have along the way rather than starting a new thread every time.
Car 40 coupe, stock drivetrain, upgraded brakes and suspension. Engine Specs 40 block 4” crank 3 3/16 pistons (stroked crank taken into account) 8ba rods Isky max 1 cam Adjustable lifters with holes drilled for adjusting Edelbrock aluminum heads Dual 97’s on an edmunds intake My first question is, is it ok to use the steel crank gear up against an aluminum cam gear? Somewhere I read this was not ok? Please confirm. |
Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions French motors use steel crank gear and aluminium cam wheels. So I would say it is ok.
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Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions Regarding the gears. yes it is absolutely OK to use. Unless you want to get a specially made gear set, your choices are steel crank and aluminum or fiber cam gear.
If you haven't already, I would strongly urge you to get the block completely checked out by you or someone who knows what to look for before you proceed. By checked out, I mean: 1) Completely cleaned and the water jackets cleaned off all crud 2) Pressure tested. If it passes pressure testing, move to set three. 3) Magnifluxed Until you do these three things to the block, there is no guarantee the block is good and you could be spending a lot of time, effort and money for naught. |
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Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions drill for adjustable lifter, use them. check for clearance on the crank to block-area outside block rails-sometimes you will need a little relief there
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Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions First, I'd like to know the application of the engine and car. Why the cam. why the carbs. And the factory used the aluminum cam gear on the cast iron crank gear. Do you have all these parts now?? Youmight be better off with a 59 block. You;ll have many more questions befor you finish.
Gramps |
Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions Ford used fiber cam gears with steel crank gears without any problems.
My 1953 Ford V-8 still uses them both. |
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I’ll have hundreds of questions. Most which will be answered by searching internet. The ones I can’t find I’ll come here. I’m not afraid to ask! |
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Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions If using the 4" merc crank, I would also use some 8ba rods since you have 2 oil holes per journal, and the bearings are cheaper and easier to deal with. Merc crank needs merc pistons too, if you didn't know that.
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Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions Also, be aware that some 8BA rods have squirt holes and some do not. The early 8BA's used the splash system of oiling and didn't have the holes. Later 8BA's did.
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Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions Oh yeah, I’m using 8ba rods. I updated my original post (and will do so as people mention things I forgot to say).
Also using correct pistons as recommended by van pelt. When I ordered months ago we actually had to correct that before shipping so I know we discussed it. Will post photos of rods later today. I should also note that my machine shop would not do any machine work until I had all parts ordered and in their hands, including bearings, rods, pistons, etc. They wanted to have them on hand to make sure they would work with the machine work they were doing. They told me what sizes to buy after initial inspection then I bought from van pelt then the machine shop did the work. |
Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions Just an FYI...Before beginning assembly, check to make sure the rear cam bearing is lined up so the fuel pump pushrod will go by it and not hang up on the edge. Happens a lot!
Terry |
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Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions The hole through the rear cam bearing that the fuel pump push rod drops down through. I got that off just a bit on a recent assembly (it looked ok, but push rod wouldn't assemble). Didn't want to disassemble everything, got lucky and my friends were able to use an old cam bearing and a small port-a-power between the engine stand and the rear of the motor to ease the cam bearing forward on the assembled engine. I don't recommend going through all that.
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Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions It sounds like you're gonna do a real good job. Fun, ain't it?
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Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions Do you have the more modern rear seal plates? Your engine probably came with what are known as labyrinth seals in the rear mains. You'll want to replace the stock seals with the later seal plates and rope or graphite seals. You can chat with VanPelt about this. I'd run the GraphTite gasket kit - with the composite head gaskets (not the copper ones). Also, pay particular attention to the instructions for the rear main seal - and the installation of the "roll-pin" to keep their seals from potentially spinning.
Also, make sure that when you test fit the replacement seal plates that they DO NOT stick up above the deck or ream main surface. I've had to trim some of them on my mill - to make sure the rear main cap would seat all the way down. I'd replace the 1940 oil pump with the later 49-53 pump and buy the special bolt-on pickup from Speedway. Also, stretch the front oil-pressure relief spring about 1/4 to 3/8" so that the new pump's pressure relief spring/plunger becomes the "boss". Best of luck! |
Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions Here is an example of a conversion kit for the mains - from Reds. VanPelt will probably have the same thing - at a better price:
https://reds-vintage-parts.com/store...e-1936-to-1942 |
Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions make sure your rods clear the bottom of the cyls , you will know as you put the pistons in may have to relieve the cyl a bit, mine being bored to standard left a small ridge at the top, a tight compressor let the rings clear the ridge.
good luck kurt |
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Next question
The book says the measurement between rear crank bearing and crank should be .0015 max. I’m at .003. Am I screwed? How do I fix? Attachment 523060 |
Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions Are you measuring end play? If yes, you need more than 0.0015, that dimension is for bearing ID to crankshaft OD.
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.003" end play on that thrust bearing is perfect. Sure the book doesn't say .015 max? Terry |
Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions I like the end-play to be about .004 to .008. If you're down around the low-end, you should be good.
You should check it with a dial indicator and magnetic mount. Then move the crank back/forth with a big screw-driver between a counterweight and the block (gently!) and see how much end-play the indicator shows you. |
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Sunday morning questions.
First up, gear that goes on the crank that spins with the cam, any tricks to getting it on? Do I need to heat it up or just coerce it with a hammer? I started tapping with a hammer but didn’t want to get too agressive before I consulted. The book just says “install the gear” essentially. Second, what is this piece in the photo? Need to know before I go much further so I don’t have to back track. Attachment 523081 Attachment 523082 Third, what about this hole in the rear crank bearing cap? It’s threaded. Nothing in my box of parts looks like it should fit. Red marker pointing to hole in photo. Attachment 523080 |
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The second pict, there is an approx. 3" tube was a spoon/mouth on the end that inserts in there. I'll try to take a picture of what it looks like on a cap. May not be until tomorrow. |
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Looking back at my old sludgy tear down photos, there appears to have been nothing screwed into the hole on the main cap.
Attachment 523099 |
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I have multiple rear caps without them. Stock and as is from the factory, they had them. I'll defer to others if it is needed. |
Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions Yep, if it’s supposed to be there I prefer it to be there! Anyone got the tube for sale?
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I wonder what the function of that tube is? |
Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions There is also a slinger that goes between that sleeve and the crank gear.
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Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions I've used this conversion, and it works quite well
Granps |
Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions My understanding:
The sleeve shown is sometimes part of the front pulley, sometimes a separate piece. Check your pulley is compatible. As stated, don't forget to put the slinger on first. Again, as stated, Ford discontinued the small tube on the rear main cap. Don't worry about it. Mart |
Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions On the spiral wound slinger. Some 49-53 crankshafts used a pulley where the seal surface was an integral part of the pulley - like the earlier engines had. Others, used this little sleeve that slides on the crankshaft after the main gear and slinger are in place. If you're running a modern "doughnut" seal (black round rubber thingy), then you usually put a speedy repair sleeve over the stock one so that the spiral grooves don't wear out the modern front seal.
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BELOW is an explanation (in someone else's words) of why that tube was originally necessary, as well as WHY IT IS NO LONGER NEEDED. "The very early engines 32-34, had no crank case ventilation, and slinger rear main. Crank case windage presurizes the interior of the engine, which looks for a place to escape. Major escape route is through the labyrinth, so a return pipe was fitted, the open end of which is immersed in the oil in the pan. Therefore, that possible/probable/definite oil leak is eliminated [to a degree] Beginning 1935, and all subsequent production, the crankcase has positive ventilation, therefore there is no presurization of crankcase, which precludes the blowing out of oil through the labyrinth, therefore, although the rear main cap was tapped for the fitting of the return pipe, the pipe was not fitted during production. Certain 'dump truck' applications, whereby a heavy load could lift the front wheels off of the deck, could indeed, tilt the rear of the engine sufficiently to allow oil to leak out through the labyrinth, so in that application, the return pipe was fitted." To satisfy your curiosity, BELOW is a picture of the tube in question. Coop https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...6&d=1476393011 |
Re: Rebuilding my Flathead random questions I called and left a message for this gentleman. Have both parts nos Ford
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