Adjustable lifter problem
 

I am having a problem with my adjustable lifters on my 8BA i have installed Bob Drake adjustable lifters these came in a Bob Drake box , after only approx 150 miles, one of them has loosened off to the extent i can turn screw the bolt down with my fingers . I have rung my supplier and they have sent me a new set , this time he has sent me new lifters and told me that they now get there lifters from H&H Flatheads when they arrived yesterday they are all individually wrapped in plastic cellophane as per pic attached , My question has anyone anyone purchased lifters from H&H and did they come packaged like these ones ,or do they come in a box , im querious to know if these are from H&H as thlere is no brand name anywhere , thanks in Advance

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

First I would not use any hollow lifters that are being sold today.
Johnson #2032 solid type is what I would use.
That being said loose lifter screws can be corrected by squeezing them in a vice.


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/pictu...ictureid=41159

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

A piece of advice re adjustable lifters. You can see clearly in the illustration above, what is done to make the threads tight in the threaded hole in the lifter.

If both parts parts of the thread are not fully engaged in the lifter then it will be loose. The length of thread in the French (I know yours aren't french, but I'm just trying to illustrate what I'm saying) Lifter is only so long. Too far in and it will be loose, too far out and it will be loose. There is a finite range of stickout where the lifter will be nice and tight. Stray either side and it will be loose and will not work.

If you are confident the amount of stickout is in the sweet spot, giving the screw a good squeeze like in the illustration might be all it needs.

Mart.

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

What is going on with the 'Squeeze' is that you're altering the amount of thread "offset" between the two sections of the adjuster - causing the interference to be tighter. Essentially the locations of the two threaded sections are deliberately being misaligned - such that a sort of "bind" is being created between the two. On the original style Johnsons, this can be "adjusted" but squeezing the adjuster and putting more bind between the two areas.

One of the biggest problems with many of the re-pop adjustable lifters (other than poor materials, incorrect hardening and frequently shoddy production) is that folks try to use them with stock length valves and small base circle (high-lift) cams.

When you have to increase the installed length of the lifter (the distance between the base of the cam and the valve stem) - by backing the adjuster way out (attempting to make up for the small base circle cam), then frequently there is not enough of the threads in the adjuster to cause the "bind" that is supposed to keep them tight.

This is one reason that I run either longer length valves (SBC valves) or lash caps on stock length valves to increase their overall length and makeup for the small base circle issue mentioned above. I want the adjuster to be as far down in the lifter as possible.

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

That "squeeze remedy" makes sense. However, can enough "squeeze pressure" really be applied by vise jaws to compress the pitch of the threads rather than just bend the adjusting screw?

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

B&S hit the nail right on the head. The lifter has to work in a limited area from the stock base circle, and don't work well with a high lift cam like the L-100, so I use chevy valves. Back i the day, they made a longer screw for hi lift cams.

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

Would blue loctite solve the problem - not red loctite?

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

I have never received a response from anyone when I made the suggestion that I am going to now repeat. I can only assume people think my suggestion is silly or I'm joking or whatever, but it works well, and I'm not ashamed to repeat it. I fully agree with above explanations of how the misaligned dual threads work in adjustable lifters. But, how much missalinement tension is enough. You can be 100% sure your adjustment will not change if you do this.

After I make all adjustments to the valve train I lock the threads of the screws by hitting them with a jet of carb cleaner to make them oil free. I then put a dab of slow cure JB Weld on the screw threads below the screw head and down to the lifter top. I have tested this technique with 100% success over a ten year period, with no JB Weld failure, and no lash changes. On removal of the lifters for reuse, a short time on a wire wheel will remove the JB and your all set for the next use in another engine if you want.

Now, has anyone else done this? Be brave and tell us your experience.

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

Dang, Russ....that sounds like something I'd do! Not afraid to admit it...:D
Terry

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

Yes, a vice is enough and can be too much if your not careful. Another point is moving them around a lot, as in turning the adjuster screw in and out. IMO it is best to figure out or guess the approximant height required of the lifter and move it to that position prior to installation. And then limit the movement during the final adjustment as much a possible.

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

I like Russ' idea.

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

To me the easy solution is use original non adjustable lifters. For me they are quicker to set up and won’t go loose on you and they weigh 1/4 as much. It’s a win win all around.

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

What about a jam nut if the screw is way out?

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

Any lifter with that thin head is not going to stay set. The correct lifters have a thick head. Those thin head lifters are only good for stock cams and N Ford farm tractors.

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

I've seen very thin jamb nuts on these lifters in various engines - I can't see a reason why this wouldn't work - you just need to find a supply of them.

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

Jamb nuts have held in valve trains for billions, if not trillions of miles. Good idea, but tough to achieve with us stock cam guys. Might need to make up a special wrench. What about a shorter valve and a tall lifter with a lock nut and less surface wear? Probably little market for all the work involved.

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

Im with you on this Mike. Its a pretty heavy cam Phils running too.

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

Put me down as a fan of solid lifters and grind to length valves. So far I've not had any of them get out of adjustment.

Just my $ 0.02 worth.

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

wicking lock tight 290 it works

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

Thank you 19Fordy, your a brave man. LOL

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

I have adjustables but they were a bear to adjust even with the galley drilled so I am not losing any sleep on them loosening. But if I build another 8BA I would like to grind the stems and use the stock lifters, just to learn. The machines I have seen that can butt grind valves are pretty expensive. Is there a tool to grind the stems that is in the budget of an individual?

JB

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

Depends on the individual. I have seen old valve facing machines for $300 that would do stems. They were mostly worn out though. A good used one goes for $2000 and up. I do stems in my lathe. It is faster than grinding them but again, most lathes are not cheap.

A simple "V" block fixture to grind stems on the side of a bench grinder wheel could be made up and would work ok with a LOT of practice on junk valves.
The main thing here is to get the fixture adjusted so the finished surface on the stem is flat and square.

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

Thanks Pete and apologize for hijacking the thread. I saw the same price points for that capability but didn’t know if there was a cheaper tool.

JB

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

I made a "V" bracket for a bench grinder and it works just fine. Takes alittle practice. Walt Dupont never used adjustable's , had a ceramic fixture for welding up the valve stems . However, back in the 50's the adjustable lifters were only 12 bucks a set.
Then we got lazy.
Gramps

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

Before everybody goes bonkers on this subject this is how its done. go to y tube punch
in "fiat nutzs ford flathead valve adjustment" John runs a top end machine shop in CA.
He came up with this researching this subject the way the factory did it but the factory
of course had massive tooling, meaning 16 valves at a time in seconds . well we have
not those deep pockets but with this simple jig & one at a time he machines and sells
these jigs. I made this jig before watching his vidio My jig a good valve guide clamped up to bench grinder with fine wheel use the side of the wheel nip the stem watching the dial indicator. To start yes it takes time but time spent is I own & it is in the draw .
couple things with solid's 1 loose lash then face the valve or nip the seat to set it deeper then grind the stem fastest way out buy chevy valves that are longer then no need to fool with seat and valve grinding. This is not for split guide engines .

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

I've fixed this problem with a simple center punch (or two or three) on the threads.

Re: Adjustable lifter problem
 

Sooooo true. It takes a LOT of practice. When dealing with .001", it is so easy to go too far. Great advice on getting junk valves to practice with.